pauljmcnulty
Active member
Juddering. Followed by more juddering and a dose of juddering to confirm the problem.
Clutch life
- Thread starter DavidL
- Start date
Juddering. Followed by more juddering and a dose of juddering to confirm the problem.
ghost
New member
Mine judders when joining slow moving traffic after doing a very spirited run. It smooths out as the engine cools down. Other than that, the clutch is just a bit heavy - too much for my wife to drive far. [
] So all things considered, I'll leave it a bit longer before replacement.
Can the judder cause secondary damage to gearbox, final drive, etc.?
] So all things considered, I'll leave it a bit longer before replacement.Can the judder cause secondary damage to gearbox, final drive, etc.?
smiffyraf1
New member
my symptoms for the rubber disintegrating were a jolt on application of throttle and lift off basically no damping to the transmission. luckily the clutch has a 'get you home mode' which got me home back and forth for around 1000 miles before i got round to changing it unfortunately the more modern type clutch i fitted to replace it doesn't have the ingenious get you home mode. so when the cush springs go, no more clutch.
unfortunately the more modern type clutch i fitted to replace it doesn't have the ingenious get you home mode. so when the cush springs go, no more clutch.Oli
I may well be be wrong* but your judder when cold on a newish clutch makes me wonder if it is somehow getting oil-contaminated, and then cleaning itself up with use as you drive.
*something I ought to say whenever I am attempting remote mechanical diagnosis because it will probably be applicable
I may well be be wrong* but your judder when cold on a newish clutch makes me wonder if it is somehow getting oil-contaminated, and then cleaning itself up with use as you drive.
*something I ought to say whenever I am attempting remote mechanical diagnosis because it will probably be applicable
Oh great - thanks! Just give me more paranoia about things wrong with my car, why don't you? And not just a small thing - a thumping great big thing like an oil-contaminated clutch, too ...
In the last week I've been concerned about a duff rear light (friend told me one had blown but I can't see anything wrong, but I can't see the brake lights as for them to be operated I need to have my foot on the pedal, so can't see the back of the car), the windscreen making a loud 'cracking' noise, the sunroof creaking when closed, the sunroof rattling when open, the cabin temperature not being properly regulated, the drivers seat making a nasty creaking noise (or is it the steering column?), the radio packing up, the possible re-occurance of rust in the front wings (only repaired last summer), the heated washer jets not heating up and hence the jets freezing in cold weather, the fact that the fuel consumption has gone ballistic, and it looks like someone has spilled coffee over the carpet in the rear off-side footwell. Oh, and I'm not sure I did the big bolt in the end of the crankshaft up tight enough when I did the water pump.
And now you suggest my clutch is contaminated with oil too? Wonderful! []
Oli.
P.S. Thanks for the suggestion. I hadn't thought of that one; surely oil on the plate would cause it to slip, not judder?
In the last week I've been concerned about a duff rear light (friend told me one had blown but I can't see anything wrong, but I can't see the brake lights as for them to be operated I need to have my foot on the pedal, so can't see the back of the car), the windscreen making a loud 'cracking' noise, the sunroof creaking when closed, the sunroof rattling when open, the cabin temperature not being properly regulated, the drivers seat making a nasty creaking noise (or is it the steering column?), the radio packing up, the possible re-occurance of rust in the front wings (only repaired last summer), the heated washer jets not heating up and hence the jets freezing in cold weather, the fact that the fuel consumption has gone ballistic, and it looks like someone has spilled coffee over the carpet in the rear off-side footwell. Oh, and I'm not sure I did the big bolt in the end of the crankshaft up tight enough when I did the water pump.
And now you suggest my clutch is contaminated with oil too? Wonderful! [
]Oli.
P.S. Thanks for the suggestion. I hadn't thought of that one; surely oil on the plate would cause it to slip, not judder?
david924s
New member
I had the clutch on my S2 changed as it was juddering on pulling away and also when changing down, I thought as did my mechanic that the rubber doughnut was perished, however on further inspection the linkage on top of the transmission was also found to be badly worn (not fitted correctly by previous owner or mechanic) anyway I decided to replace the clutch at 90K miles only to find it had already been done around 15K miles before and was a Sachs (none rubber unit) I also found the invoices for the parts when I looked through the history file (should have checked better first I suppose).
I decided to go ahead with the replacement as my mechanic suspected that the springs on the clutch were weakened and as I had no invoice for it being fitted was unsure of the quality of the work (the badly fitted linkage bears out my worries), after fitting a new Sachs clutch and release bearing (I did not replace the seals as these looked fine and had been done with the previous clutch) along with a new linkage (£120) the car feels like a new one no more juddering and much smoother changing gear.
So the moral is a clutch could last a lifetime if fitted and used properly however if it is fitted badly (or is faulty) then no time at all mine had lasted only £15K miles and I do not drive the car hard, ride the clutch or do wheel spins etc. Total cost inc clutch, linkage and having the Catalyst seam re-welded £900 and it took my mechanic a day to do as removal was easy with it being done so recently.
I decided to go ahead with the replacement as my mechanic suspected that the springs on the clutch were weakened and as I had no invoice for it being fitted was unsure of the quality of the work (the badly fitted linkage bears out my worries), after fitting a new Sachs clutch and release bearing (I did not replace the seals as these looked fine and had been done with the previous clutch) along with a new linkage (£120) the car feels like a new one no more juddering and much smoother changing gear.
So the moral is a clutch could last a lifetime if fitted and used properly however if it is fitted badly (or is faulty) then no time at all mine had lasted only £15K miles and I do not drive the car hard, ride the clutch or do wheel spins etc. Total cost inc clutch, linkage and having the Catalyst seam re-welded £900 and it took my mechanic a day to do as removal was easy with it being done so recently.
Oli,
The reason for the disclaimer is that I might very well be wrong. It seems reasonable to assume that heavy contamination would cause slip, and I wonder if light contamination might cause judder. I mentioned it because once upon a time, on a Mark II Escort, I had a similar judder (prominent on first few miles of the morning commute, not really noticeable thereafter), and when my tame mechanic sorted it out he said there had been some contamination which he had fixed by replacing a seal (I think - it's about 18 years ago).
The reason for the disclaimer is that I might very well be wrong. It seems reasonable to assume that heavy contamination would cause slip, and I wonder if light contamination might cause judder. I mentioned it because once upon a time, on a Mark II Escort, I had a similar judder (prominent on first few miles of the morning commute, not really noticeable thereafter), and when my tame mechanic sorted it out he said there had been some contamination which he had fixed by replacing a seal (I think - it's about 18 years ago).
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