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ORIGINAL: Indi9xx

If your interested, I can tell you what to buy and where from, and we will fit it for free!!
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I may well take you up on that (later in the year when the piggybank has recovered [:-]). In the meantime LIL is absolutely fine at 0.8 bar boost and Tony had a drive of her yesterday and showed me that being just a little bit gentler with the throttle between 3000 rpm and 4000rpm can eradicate the slip at 1.0 bar and even 1.2 bar of boost.

I couldn't help Tony with the installation today but I've just got off the phone to him and he's very nearly there now, just the CV joints, gear linkage and then exhaust to reconnect. I'm very much a basic DIY mechanic and it is a long, daunting process on a Turbo with lots of things to remove before you can get to the clutch but it is very much within the reach of two people working together and a good set of tools.

Hopefully Tony will be on here before the end of the day to announce his success [:)]
 
Well the clutch is about complete but I was just torquing up line from the fuel filter and I put a very little bit of pressure on the neighbouring return line, unfortuantely this gave way and split behind the clamp so now I need to repair fuel lines before I can start it up- oh dear I might have muttered. [:mad:] Still I suppose better to find it while I am still all oily than have it fail in a couple of months time.

 
Well after a quick visit to Jon on Monday morning to pick up a fuel line repair kit the car was back up and running. The clutch was much much much lighter than ever before and the biting point is now somewhere near the floor. One side effect I had not expected was the smoothness. For as long as I can remember I have had a vibrition at 3000 rpm but even at idle it was much smoother. I guess I shouldnt really be suprised I guess 9 springs and other assorted bit and bobs falling to the low point of the flywheel each time the engine stopped was not good for flywheel balance.

There was nothing really complicated about the change, there are some very awkward fixings to get too, the earth on top of the bellhousing, the speed and reference sensor, some of the exhaust fixings onto the torque tube. A selection of extensions and wobbles, UJ's. Also hex star and torx bits for various fixings.

Had to remove the sensors mounting bracket to get the bellhousing off - neither the clarkes guide or the workshop manual mentioned this.

Removing a couple of the nine pressure plate bolts was a pain as they are very shallow and soft (new ones a V good idea) I ended up drilling down the centre (6mm) and banging in a torx bit, they then came out easily.

It is easier with a pit (luckily we dug when when we rebuilt my mums garage) or a ramp and with an assistant - Thanks!

Tony
 
Phew - I was beginning to worry you hadn't got it going yet [8|]

I wonder just how long those springs had been falling out? Sounds like it might have been a while if you have had that vibration for so long. The idle smoothness is an unexpected side effect of a new clutch [:D]
 
failed hose between master cylinder and slave, or failed master or slave. With a failed master the fluid usually ends up in the footwell, with a slave under the car. Slave and master relatively cheap, pipe may be cheaper from a local hydraulics place.
Tony
 
Thanks mate had a good look today and in the freezing cold and found it must be the Slave Cylinder
as i found the resevoir was empty and when i topped it up and had a play found oil under the car
from around starter motor area and no oil in footwell or signs of a split pipe .
cheers for info now all i need to do now is fix it ,,,,,,,, any volenteers lol
thanks regards mick
 
I'd do the lot (both cylinders and the hose) if you intend keeping the car as it isn't too expensive and you might as well know it is going to be right. Get a nice braided hose from Pirtek or similar while you're at it as it will be as cheap if not cheaper than the OPC one.
 
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