Discounts Parts

[Mr968]

My opinion on drilled discs,
if you want the ultimate in braking performance yes, if you aren't at that particular end of the performance spectrum there isn't much point. Originally designed by Porsche for the 917 for lightness/unsprung weight but found to their surprise that they actually performed better in racing as well. Then introduced them to road cars.
Ask yourself how many times you will need them for track use and also whether you want to consider disks to be a consumable in hundreds of miles rather than thousands. If you want them purely for the look and will only be giving them normal use then they should last ok.

 

[pae]

ORIGINAL: Diver944

The Reds do not have the same co-efficient of friction when fully cold and need a bit of heating up before they work properly. Could be a bit scarey when you first brake at 70mph on the motorway []

A bit more info found whilst trawling US websites for EBC pads...

EBC Redstuff Sport/Track disc brakepads are designed for heavier sports cars, coupes and sedans used for fast high performance road driving and "track days." as well as some race applications for light and medium weight vehicles. EBC's semi-metallic Redstuff formulation is a true asphalt race pad with a medium lifetime.

EBC Redstuff pads (friction level of 0.3µ) used on the street will feel more like standard original brakes (typical friction level of 0.25µ to 0.35µ). EBC Redstuff pads offer high resistance to brake fade and a friction level that steadily rises with temperature to reach 0.33µ at 1380° Fahrenheit. This makes them appropriate for extreme high speed driving and repetitive heavy braking use, as well as, for racecars. Redstuff brake pads provide longer pad life than Greenstuff brake pads under extreme conditions with virtually no brake rotor abrasion and wear.

and then there's....

EBC Greenstuff pads (friction level of 0.46µ) will be more responsive than most standard original brakes (typical friction level of 0.25µ to 0.35µ). Their high resistance to brake fade up to 1000° Fahrenheit make them a superb upgrade for luxury and high performance streetcars used for high speed driving or that encounter repetitive, heavy braking.

As standard brake pads wear, brake dust is released as the friction material carbonizes at temperatures found in everyday braking. EBC Greenstuff brake pads are formulated to run cleaner because they resist carbonizing until over 1000° Fahrenheit, so in normal street driving, dust is almost entirely eliminated.

I interpret that as saying the Greenstuff has an initial better braking performance (than std or reds) and will remain fine up to a certain level of use, but if you are going to be seriously raising the temperatures they'll fade, whilst Redstuff keep on working. I've got no idea what temperature brakes will likely reach under road conditions to know if this is an issue or not.

Any more miles on yours yet Slim? There's a post from edh on the 924 forum saying he's had good use out of Redstuff on road and track on his 924S.

..........Phil

 

[eastendr]

ORIGINAL: slim_boy_fat

Well having now at least driven 20miles with the redstuff I can say that they will stop you fine when cold, mine are still being bedded in but are fine. I have no idea how they will perform when warm but I bet is awesome.

As for dust its too early to say, once they are bedded in I will report back (that's if I have the car that long!!)

How are you getting on with the red pads ? Are they bedded in yet ?

I'm thinking of ordering a set for my 944S soon to be fitted with the refurbished calipers from Turbot. Fast road & track day use.

Have you got part no's ?

Cheers,

Rick.

 

[Guest]

Don't forget mine are Redstuff ceramic which are different from the standard Redstuff pads.

Still only done about 350 miles on them, but they seem to be bedding in nicely. They work very well from cold, its difficult to make a comparison with the old set up as the callipers have been refurbed etc, so its not really the same. The brake feel shaper and easier to modulate. I have not used the in anger so to speak, but will probably be going for a run on Saturday.

As for brake dust is maybe still a tad early to tell, there was a fair bit at the start but the pads have a bedding in coating on them. They maybe creat slightly less dust but not by much. Once the pads have done 1000miles will get a better idea of whats what. Cant remember the codes, but got them from www.ebcbrakesdirect.com you will find them on there for sure, prices are pretty good too.

The Ceramics seem to be the ones to go for if you re looking at the Redstuff pads. They can handle much more heat, less fade and better wear, but they still say they are very kind to the disks.

 

[eastendr]

Cheers - now ordered.

 

[eastendr]

And arrived - the following morning []

 

[sawood12]

My disks and pads will want replacing later on in the year which is a job I normally tackle myself. I have a couple of questions though:-

1. Can the disks be replaced with pads removed, pistons retracted without having to remove the calipers?

2. What is the best way to open up the pistons in the calipers when replacing pads? My usual G-Clamp method on one pot calipers obviously wont work with 4-pot calipers. The workshop manual specifies the use of a special tool but i'm sure it's possible without having to use it. I was thinking about prizing open with a flat metal knife between the pads and disks on the basis my disks need replacing also so aren't bothered about scratches.

Also do the EBC red/green stuff pads come with the anti-vibration plates or do they just slot straight into the calipers.

By the way my nearest OPC is doing a 20% discount on pads and disks at the moment, don't know if it's a nationwide thing, but prices are still more that the places mentioned earlier in this thread even with Porsche Club discount on top. For 220bhp turbo: front disks £59.89+vat each, rear disks £50.17+vat each and pads are £51.70+vat a pair.

Cheers.

 

[eastendr]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

My disks and pads will want replacing later on in the year which is a job I normally tackle myself. I have a couple of questions though:-

1. Can the disks be replaced with pads removed, pistons retracted without having to remove the calipers?

2. What is the best way to open up the pistons in the calipers when replacing pads? My usual G-Clamp method on one pot calipers obviously wont work with 4-pot calipers. The workshop manual specifies the use of a special tool but i'm sure it's possible without having to use it. I was thinking about prizing open with a flat metal knife between the pads and disks on the basis my disks need replacing also so aren't bothered about scratches.

Also do the EBC red/green stuff pads come with the anti-vibration plates or do they just slot straight into the calipers.

By the way my nearest OPC is doing a 20% discount on pads and disks at the moment, don't know if it's a nationwide thing, but prices are still more that the places mentioned earlier in this thread even with Porsche Club discount on top. For 220bhp turbo: front disks £59.89+vat each, rear disks £50.17+vat each and pads are £51.70+vat a pair.

Cheers.

1. No. Calipers off.

2. If you're going to replace the discs, as you say, use a scredriver against the disc to prise the pads back (or two screwedrivers opposing to push bost pads back at the same time.

3. Check out recent threads about other suppliers. My own preference is to upgrade to Zimerman drilled discs. www.eurocarparts.com or try Bert Gear at Berlyn Services as well.

HTH

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

My disks and pads will want replacing later on in the year which is a job I normally tackle myself. I have a couple of questions though:-

1. Can the disks be replaced with pads removed, pistons retracted without having to remove the calipers?

2. What is the best way to open up the pistons in the calipers when replacing pads? My usual G-Clamp method on one pot calipers obviously wont work with 4-pot calipers. The workshop manual specifies the use of a special tool but i'm sure it's possible without having to use it. I was thinking about prizing open with a flat metal knife between the pads and disks on the basis my disks need replacing also so aren't bothered about scratches.

Also do the EBC red/green stuff pads come with the anti-vibration plates or do they just slot straight into the calipers.

By the way my nearest OPC is doing a 20% discount on pads and disks at the moment, don't know if it's a nationwide thing, but prices are still more that the places mentioned earlier in this thread even with Porsche Club discount on top. For 220bhp turbo: front disks £59.89+vat each, rear disks £50.17+vat each and pads are £51.70+vat a pair.

Cheers.

1. Same as Rick, no calipers off.

2. You can push the pistons back in with your fingers, just make sure the top is off the brake fluid res. and a cloth round it to catch any additional fluid that may have been put in. Alternativly use a piece of wood, like a wooden spoon to retract the pistons.

I reused the dampers from the front and bought new ones from the opc for the rear. The EBC pads have a rubbery type of material that i am sure will act as an anti vibration thing!!!

Mke sure you stick plenty of copper grease on the rear of the pads. You might find the onld ones are very hard to come out and the new ones will not go in, if thats the case then its maybe time to fit new caliper plates.

You can probably get the disks for about £40 + VAT nd th pads for about the same..


IMHO drilled disks are a waste of money.