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Done something very silly, Drilled head help!

Asiangunner

Asiangunner

New member
Hi guys,

Its with much shame that i write this post, it all started with 3 of my 4 mounting point for my fuel rail on my 2.5 83' having snapped heads.

As i was trying to drill on of the studs, one on closest to the front of the car, I drilled straight through.

I'm looking for some advice on if this can be repaired, I'd like to think i'm not the only garage monkey to have make this stupid error.

Will it just need a new head, Second hand prices? anyone got one from a breaker?

So let the abuse begin....hahaha[:eek:]
 
There is not a person reading this that has not made a mistake.

I hope someone can help you out.
Mick
 
Blimey when I read the thread title I thought you had drilled your head [;)] Afraid I can't offer any useful or practical advice here so will duck out of this thread now - am sure some proper help will be along soon. [:)]
 
No abuse from me. As Mick said, everyone on here has made mistakes - it's a good way of learning. Well done for trying.

Exactly what did you drill through? You were drilling snapped-off bolts that had bits left in the head? Do you have any photos?


Oli.
 
Not sure I understand.

The fuel rail is held by 2 bolts onto the inlet manifold and two others on the camshaft housing.
Did you drill through the camshaft housing or the inlet manifold?
 

ORIGINAL: TTM

Not sure I understand.

The fuel rail is held by 2 bolts onto the inlet manifold and two others on the camshaft housing.
Did you drill through the camshaft housing or the inlet manifold?
Click to expand...


Ah my bad...... the CAMSHAFT HOUSING.

I'm not thinking straight, Oli - i'd snapped the head off the bolt that holds the rail on the camshaft housing.
 
In that case (and I'm guessing a little here, as I can't see what'd going on), I don't think you have much of a problem. The space around the camshaft isn't pressurised, it just has some oil splashing around inside it. And not under any great pressure either. As long as you haven't mangled the hole you have drilled (i.e. a replacement stud can be screwed in nice and tidily), I'd take the camshaft housing off and clean any bits of swarf away (and you need to do this pretty throughly), and when you reassemble it make sure that the thing in the hole is done up nice and tight so nothing can leak out.

(NOTE: I may have misunderstood the whole situation and be wrong! But this is certainly my take on it. Can you post some photos?)


Oli.
 
Oli, that sounds spot on. I was wondering how much pressure would be under the cover and what you've said has help massively. I think i'll the the cam cover off and heli coil the little buggers as both are not in great shape.

the hole is not massive, glad i didn't make a total pigs ear of it.

Here is the pics mate..

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Ranjit,

There won't be much pressure under there at all, so I wouldn't sweat it. Things to watch out for however are:

- Whether you have hit something else on the way through (so to speak). I have played with similar parts from the head of a 928, and can't remember how the camshaft bearings are arranged. If you have clipped one of them then it will be a different story

- You will need to clean the swarf out quite carefully, so that will be a case of taking the cam cover off and cleaning it throughly as well as making sure that no swarf has dropped down onto the tappets. Not hard to do, but worth doing well.

Helicoiling things is no bad idea. The mounting is not under any great force but it's worth making a tidy job of it all.


Oli.
 

ORIGINAL: zcacogp

Ranjit,

There won't be much pressure under there at all, so I wouldn't sweat it. Things to watch out for however are:

- Whether you have hit something else on the way through (so to speak). I have played with similar parts from the head of a 928, and can't remember how the camshaft bearings are arranged. If you have clipped one of them then it will be a different story

- You will need to clean the swarf out quite carefully, so that will be a case of taking the cam cover off and cleaning it throughly as well as making sure that no swarf has dropped down onto the tappets. Not hard to do, but worth doing well.

Helicoiling things is no bad idea. The mounting is not under any great force but it's worth making a tidy job of it all.


Oli.
Click to expand...

Nice one Oli, thanks for the quick replies, I was dreading telling the missus i've c0cked up and cost us more money on a car that she'd rather see the back of.

Think i'll quietly tinker away with it and get it cleaned and sealed up asap. I'm pretty confident i didn't clip anything on the way through, seems to be nothing obstructing under there.

Ranj

 
A cam cover wont be expensive. Let me rephrase that: a cam cover shouldnt be expensive as theres very little demand for parts now.
 
To remove the cam tower requires taking the cambelt off. You will need to set the cambelt tension when you refit. To do this properly you need something to measure the tension.

The best bet would be to tap the hole the next size up and fit a bigger bolt. The problem you have is where has all the swarf gone from the drilled bolt which will be steel and the aluminium cam tower. You might get lucky and it will find its way into the sump where it will stay without doing any damage, or it might come between a cam lobe and a tappet, where it might cause damage. It can't get into any other oil galleries so shouldn't cause any blockages. I would be inclined to take a chance.
 
Sounds like you've got the repair solution but I'll add that if you are concerned about an "open hole" into the cam tower, you could tap the entire length of the hole and screw in a threaded plug to seal off the cam tower side - just be sure to leave enough space for the new fuel rail bolt....
 

ORIGINAL: JM1962

To remove the cam tower requires taking the cambelt off. You will need to set the cambelt tension when you refit. To do this properly you need something to measure the tension.
Click to expand...
Now that IS a good point.

When was the belt last done? If it's more than half way through it's life then I'd replace it.

Setting the tension isn't the black art it's made out to be. Go for the 90degree twist on the longest run, and if you are worried then take it to your local indie for them to eyeball it.


Oli.
 
glad youve found a solution all of us here have made mistakes in the past ,just part of learning about our cars ,it seems youre problem isnt as bad as first thought
and thats normally the case ,but I'll bet there were plenty of sware words when you first saw that lol
 
where abouts are you, I think I've got a tower here that you can have.

Unfortunately your tower will need to come off until you get the swarf out from drilling through.

The easiest and cheapest way would be to tap the whole a size bigger, the Americans are a big fan of jb weld you could put a spot at the bottom of the hole from bellow to plug it and that would leave enough room for a screw on top.

If you want this tower no probs you can have it gratis, unfortunately I am very busy and not sure I would get time to post it, if you are near Glasgow or Stirling then thats easier!
 
ps you will need a cam tower gasket as well very cheap form online I think £8 last time I checked.
 
Hi JM,

Thats good to know that any crap should get picked up in the sump.

I have a good feeling that most of the swarf came out as quite abit come out when drilling, I will still get it taken off and i'll clean it though.

The cars not running at the mo with an issue i've not had the time and confidence to diagnose so i'm having the car go to a indie next week.

I spoke to him yesterday and he's got a system thats like helicoil but newer and said to be better so i'll get him to tap the hole if i don't get a replacement tower.
 
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