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Electrical gremlins.....and the roof!

ORIGINAL: Richard Hamilton Each wheel has a speed sensor for the ABS/TC/PSM (whichever is fitted). The wheel speeds are compared to determine if one is spinning, locked, etc. The instrument cluster also uses the average of these 4 sensors for the speedometer. If a sensor fails, it uses an average of the remaining 3.
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Ah, that's a shame, I was hoping the ABS sensor being down could be one of the issues with the dash. However, the fact that it will use the average of the remaining 3 ruins my hopes of an easy fix! If I take the sensor off, check it's clean with no obvious damage etc, is there a check I can do with a test meter to check that it actually is the sensor before I go out and buy a new one. Also, I've seen new Bosch items on ebay of around the £60 mark. It there anywhere cheaper that anyone can recommend?
 
If you've fixed the fault by remaking the connector Mike, the ABS warning light should go off. You could check the sensor for open circuit or compare it's resistance with one of the other sensors. Try Design 911 UK to see if they can source a cheaper sensor if you need one. Jeff
 
I've looked through the diagnostic manual, and there aren't any checks shown using a meter. Like I said, first thing to do would be to check the connector plug and socket for corrosion or damage. Also try Type911.
 
Well, it's been an unexpectedly good day! I dropped the rear offside wheel off to have a look at things and noticed that the sensor connector wasn't properly seated. I pushed it in a bit and thought, 'I wonder?'. Quickly popped the keys in the ignition, started it and the ABS light went out, fantastic! I put the wheel back on and thought to myself, surely I can't be having that good a day? and took the car for a spin, the dash works perfectly and the spoiler deploys as should. I've never had a 30 second, zero cost fix before, I'm well chuffed! However, on the the next gremlin, the roof! The previous owner has disconnected both push rods from the roof mechanism as one of the plastic caps on the end has broken off. I've found one on ebay which seems cheap enough but I want to check that they are not 'handed'. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111011603856?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Also, I take it I will need to ensure everything is in the right place to connect the arms, is it difficult to set up?
 
That's great news Mike. Amazing how such a small thing as a poor connection can have such widespread ramifications, but that's modern car electronics for you..! Hope that you can now get the hood fixed and start enjoying the car. You might find something in this article which will be of help in replacing the push-rod ends: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair.htm Jeff
 
Many thanks for that, that was last nights reading! It seems (how naive of me!) quite simple, the only difficult parts seems to be aligning both sides and working in such a cramped area!
 
I've spent a couple of days trying to get all my facts and figures right as was wondering if someone could tell me if I'm going in the right direction!? Although the roof rods on my car have been disconnected, when I use the switch, I can hear the mechanism 'whirring' so I'm assuming that if I replaced the broken rod, reconnected and aligned them, everything would be fine? I've also read, it's a good idea to replace the earlier motors with the later ones but, I can't find out why, is there any specific reason I should consider installing the newer item? And finally, an electrical Gremlin. The boot opening function does not work from my key fob (although the central locking functions fine) and was wondering if there was a good place to start trying to sort that out?
 
The spares have arrived for my roof mechanism so I'll hopefully have a day off next week and have chance to try and get the roof sorted. Not that it's in any risk of being lowered at them moment!
 
Mike, If you've still got the plastic rear window (i.e. it's not a replacement glass windowed roof) whatever you do, don't try and lower it - even just to test it - at any temperature lower than about 5 degrees C. It will likely break the plastic screen.
 
Cheers for the info! I was wondering if the cold would cause any issues. I was considering heating the rear screen with a hairdryer to make it more supple before lowering it so I could work on it. Do you reckon that would work?
 
The trouble is, it's not going to stay warm whilst you work on the roof, so when you put it back up you have the same problem. Might just be safer to wait a while - warmer days are just around the corner (I hope!)
 
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