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Engine build progress

ORIGINAL: barks944 Lots to do scott! Going to strip all the suspension components off for a full chassis rust treatment with new bushes, new copper brake/fuel lines, rebuilt wishbones etc etc. Get lots of the bits shot blasted and re-painted/coated. Hopefully all the engine work can be done pretty much in parallel, going to send the head off to be modified and rebuilt. New wastegate, new clutch and fully rebuilt engine. Got an original bridge spoiler to go on too. Going to try and get some bits of OS951, they seem to make some great kit over in finland! Final step will be a custom remap and then hopefully many hours of good driving and some track days! Exciting stuff but lots of work and a fair bit of the old ££££.
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Sounds like you'll end up with a great machine. Sounds like alot of the stuff i'd have liked to have done to her myself - respecting the original but with a few tasteful mods and updates. By the way, I replaced the fuel lines with brand new OEM lines when the KW was installed - they still had the stickers on them. They were actually off an S2 that was being broken and had only been on the car for a few days before the engine went pop, but they are effectively the same thing except for the connections to the flexi lines under the bonnet, but were not a problem to get around.
 
Pat, what exactly is involved for the turbo install....I take it you are talking full Garrett? There are also options to go with a kkk type hotside with a modded turbine wheel and a garrett coldside all with a BB core. I think this is what Thom and Paul are running and I think there are a few places now doing these bolt on BB turbos. Is it worth the effort to go to full Garrett?
 
Nick, check Vic Timpauer's very informative posts on here : http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23926 Installing a full Garrett may be worth the effort when replacing an old technolgy turbo such as a full KKK - anyway I'm trying to stay convinced that my SPS hybrid is good enough for my engine and that the costs of installing a full Garrett GT30 wouldn't be worth the financial effort over what it would bring.
 
Thanks for the link, its a good thread I think I read it a while back but good to read it again. I am very very tempted to go down this road at some point when I have the time and money. For now I will finish off perfecting the install.....after that it might be Garrett time!
 
ORIGINAL: sawood12 ONe thing that will help a K26/6 hold 1 bar till higher RPM is a MAF or MAP i.e. removing any restriction in the intake.
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I think Scott has a point here, and if you combine the MAF with a large 3" exhaust (including turbo downpipe) you may get close to holding 1bar with a 26/6. I know Jon Trasler has a MAF and a Promax big exhaust with his 26/8 so it would be interesting to see what boost his holds. However what is the cost of a MAF and exhaust compared with a BB Turbo? I've attached an old dyno plot showing boost curve with the SimonP BB turbo, you can see at that stage it hits 15psi (1bar) by 3100rpm and matches the factory figure of 12psi by 2800rpm - you can easily knock 3-400rpm of those numbers out on a real road. Now how much of that is the quick turbo and how much is the large capacity 3.2L engine is difficult to say but that curve was achieved with the standard airbox and AFM in place and also running a restrictive Dansk exhaust, so it was very strangled.
DynoBoost.jpg
 
Isn't there a dyno on Ricks site for simons 2.5 car that had the most torque of any 2.5 at the time? Ps I think with garrett fitment the exhaust side causes most of the problems, the bigger bb core is a direct fit (or so someone told me)
 
Speedforce racing in the states do a load of bolt on turbos with BB core options. His stage 1 is apparently good for about 325 rwp with >3000 rpm spoolup. Not sure if that is with BB core or not. [link=http://www.speedforceracing.com/index.php?productID=746]http://www.speedforceracing.com/index.php?productID=746[/link] Lil has a great torque curve, yummy.
 
That Reutterwerk -thread is very informative, thanks for the link. I have had Garrett GT3076 for almost two years now waiting for installation.. It's about time to do it finally! Everything else is sorted except the turbo mount. I have ordered one from Dave at CEP but it's been very long wait and still no mount. May end up going with the cheap option and buy the ATP adapter. It's interesting to see how it performs on 2.8 stroker engine. I'll have to ask John at Vitesse to burn me a new chip with this turbo in mind. If I don't buy KMS standalone instead!
 
And looking at the graphs for Davids K26/8 (with AFM and standard exhaust) it can't hold the boost to the red line http://www.cannell.co.uk/UKL%20F835VJT.htm My car with the same EBC boost control/intake setup had a flat boost line with a K27/8 and an ESS exhaust http://www.cannell.co.uk/UKL%20H419NHP.htm then my car (I think) with a MAF http://www.cannell.co.uk/UKL%20H419NHP-3.htm and a bit less setting up - the gain is wrong on the boost control so its not as smooth. A big boost leak was causing the rich running - big leak on idle stabiliser - smaller ones on throttle body and heater control valve diaphragm and it was before the piggyback went in. Tony
 
Just realised i've been looking at spoolup on the dyno charts the wrong way. Was looking at where the torque peaks as a measure of spoolup. This is wrong isn't it as more boost means longer to spool. A better way is too look at where the engine is producing a certain torque, say 200lbft and compare that between cars. This way you can see the k26/6 makes 200lbft at <3000 rpm where the k26/8 makes 200lbft at ~3300 rpm. Not a massive difference I suppose.
 
http://speedforceracing.net/images/products/porsche/dynoresults/531dyno.jpg This car for instance is producing 200lbft at 2500 rpm. Must be hellishly quick! http://speedforceracing.net/images/products/porsche/dynoresults/dyno_2_1.jpg This one makes me want a stroker engine again. 250lbft at 3000rpm and 400bhp. Now thats what I'm talking about.
 
ORIGINAL: 944Turbo My car with the same EBC boost control/intake setup had a flat boost line with a K27/8 and an ESS exhaust http://www.cannell.co.uk/UKL%20H419NHP.htm then my car (I think) with a MAF http://www.cannell.co.uk/UKL%20H419NHP-3.htm and a bit less setting up - the gain is wrong on the boost control so its not as smooth. A big boost leak was causing the rich running - big leak on idle stabiliser - smaller ones on throttle body and heater control valve diaphragm and it was before the piggyback went in.
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How have you managed that! That is simply staggering boost control. Excluding cars that don't have a big enough turbo still never seen a boost curve like that, what's the trick? Did you change the manifold design?
 
Greddy profec spec B type 1 = no longer available but similar to type S http://www.alamomotorsports.com/greddy/Profec_Type_S.htm (available cheaper elsewhere) that they bought out after the spec II wasn't as popular as they hoped. I think the twin solenoid set up works well with our dual port wastegates. Simple set up and does the job. There is a downside though set up for 18PSI in 5th you will get a bit less max boost in the lower gears. Tony
 
Thanks George! No worries anyway, I'm not in a hurry. Tom, I think Tony is/was running a K27/8 on his coupé.
 
ORIGINAL: DivineE How have you managed that! That is simply staggering boost control. Excluding cars that don't have a big enough turbo still never seen a boost curve like that, what's the trick? Did you change the manifold design?
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I put it all down to the Greddy boost controller, they really do seem to work very well with our dual port wastegates. Here's mine showing 'nearly' a flat line at 17psi in blue on the Greddy and compared with the 'black knob' controller trying to hold 15psi shown as the red line Tony's is by far and away the flattest I have ever seen [8D] (if you like that sort of thing [;)] )
LIL5766_PSI_3.jpg
 
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