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Engine tin

Ouch

I hope your sitting down when you phone the dealers!! I bought mostly all new panels as most of mine didn't come out well after shot blasting and powder coating. It's about 200 each for the ones at the rear of the engine!!. Reckon on £700ish for a new set!!!

Crazy for new tinware!!! They are even only lightly spray painted from new! I had all my new ones blasted and powder coated so it cost me even more lol!!

Tim
 
You might want to contact Nick Fulljames of Redtek he was making fibreglass repro's which may be a more appealing price. Assuming your not too hung up on originality.
 
Laurence,
thanks for the suggestion, I know mine are as Bernard describes, and I'm not convinced sheet metal is the best solution.
will contact Redtek
George
 
George

Did you find a solution to the problem of tin ware? I wonder if any one could fabricate them from thinner stainless steel? That would be the best solution I feel?

Regards Michael..
 
I know this is going to sound like a very silly question, but can someone explain what the engine tinware is and what it is for?

I believe mine is on the way out too, is it an engine out job? how much should I budget for completely replacement including removal & fitting?
 
Look in the engine bay, to the left, to the right and to the rear (fan end) of the engine. You will see black tin plates that go between the engine and the chassis and seal the gap that would be there otherwise. The tinwear is attached to the engine not the chassis.

Yes I believe it can be replaced in situ as I did my early 911 and it is the same basic design. There is also tinwear at the front of the engine but you have to get under the car to see it properly and it is a b*gger to change in situ.

Ian.
 

ORIGINAL: colin129

I know this is going to sound like a very silly question, but can someone explain what the engine tinware is and what it is for?

I believe mine is on the way out too, is it an engine out job? how much should I budget for completely replacement including removal & fitting?
Click to expand...

Basically, as the engine is air cooled it directs the air to the correct parts to be cooled.................basically
 
I replaced all my tinware (as it was shot) when I had to change the clutch 5 years ago. I didn't spend any extra money to get the tinware further finished. I guessed the originals lasted around 20 years and that was good enough really. Besides the liberal coating of oil the new tins get from my engine should be good enough to preserve them for another 20......

Cost was £785 with VAT.
 
Hi looking at this tin ware issue are any companies making alternatives like stainless types? I've seen the fiber glass versions but think that a stainless steel version surely would be the best option? Any work shops out there might be interested in this market?

Regards Michael..
 
Unfortunately for someone or a company to make it competitive they would have to sell quite a number. The initial set up costs are the main factor; presses, jigs, tooling; moulds in the case of the fibre glass.
I believe the fibre glass ones which are available are cheaper but require a bit of fettling. Personally I would sooner pay the bit extra and know the fit is perfect. Besides if what you are replacing has lasted 20 years or more, then the new replacement will probably last the same, most probably longer, as now our cars are getting on years, we do tend to pamper them more ;)
 
Paul

I do see your point but think it could be a possibility as a lot of the earlier cars will need it replacing at some point. I think my option might be to buy the OEM tin then get it powder coated in the black finish. I do not want the chance of rust later on or at least minimize the possibility once the tin ware is replaced. Can all of the pieces be replaced without engine removal?

Regards Michael..
 
Hi Michael,
I have had 2 pieces of tin ware replaced. The piece which surrounds the 3rd cylinder was the worst, the other on the right hand side of the engine bay, the piece most visible. I've also had all mine powder coated even the new bits. I am lead to believe the engine has to be dropped to make removal and replacement easier. I'm sure others on here will confirm.
 
The big piece at the rear can be replaced with the exhaust removed but involves much swearing, contortionist's moves and grazed hands. The front two pieces are best done with the engine dropped. You can possibly do those with the engine in if you remove the exhaust manifold first but be prepared for the manifold to cause you a whole lot of pain because of nuts that have welded themselves on. Personally, I left the front tins until the engine went for its rebuild. If you're not planning an engine rebuild soon, buy the tins now because they seem to go up in price by 50% every year! That way you'll have them ready for the future.
 
Steve, Paul

Thank you for the comments. My car has not needed a rebuild yet but will definitely have one in the future so I am just thinking ahead at the moment to make sure I have all the bits ready when it does.

Paul, Can I ask you how much you paid for the powder coating of the tin work? Do they charge per piece or by say square foot??

Thank again!

Regards Michael..
 
Michael,
The powder coating cost me £132 including vat, back in 2012. Unfortunately I don't know the company, as the specialist that looks after the 964 arranged for it to be done. The figure I've quoted was the figure shown on my invoice. This cost will also have included the preparation of the old tinware prior to coating.
 
Paul

Good evening and many thanks for that, I will factor that in to the tin ware replacement plan.

Best regards Michael..
 
George

Did you find a solution to the problem of tin ware? I wonder if any one could fabricate them from thinner stainless steel? That would be the best solution I feel?

Regards Michael
Click to expand...

Michael, sorry - not checked in on this for a while. Roger at Redtec was busy and I was in no hurry. I plan to go the fiberglass route.

My reasons:
- Had Porsche wanted to, they could have gone stainless on day one but in the interest of cheapness they didn't. (Stainless is harder to draw/form, but the kitchen sink proves the right grade will form)
- Porsche Racing Cars used Fiberglass
- the £700 replacement cost for badly finished replacements is a joke or rip-off. I suspect the latter.
- A VW Beetle Type 1 engine uses the equivalent tinware but finished properly so it lasts. A complete engine is less than £700 [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]
- Personally I use improved materials, oils, software, tyres, where available - but there is another slave to originality school.

Good luck whatever you do
George
 
I have never replaced the tin ware on a Porsche flat six, however I have done countless VW air cool engines of various types and sizes. I would imagine that the best way to change the tin ware would be to remove the engine and do the whole lot at one time. I would not recommend powder-coating tin ware. I am not a fan of powder coating and would always prefer to paint metal. I feel that when the powder coat chips or cracks ( and I think it will given the heat changes that occur on an air cooled engine ) any water will work its way in and under the coating until the metal itself rots away and leaves the coating. Then when you look at it it looks fine but in reality it is rotted away to nothing.If you paint your tin ware you can see if any corrosion is taking place and fix it.Also it's a lot easier to treat a rust spot and re paint it than it is to re powder coat it. I think people get carried away with powder coating parts that they would be better off painting.
 
Colin, I'd agree with every word of that. The 964 tin is like a Volkswagen, but not so well engineered in terms of captive fastners and finish. George
 
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