Engines Coming Out

Andy B Aces High · Mar 28, 2010

As you may have seen on another post on here I have two broken screws to get out, so the engine is coming out.

Made a start today, all the heater "gubbins" under the engine are off, and the rear under pan mounting cross bar. Engine and gearbox fluid drained, been round and checked that fasteners are going to come undone or squirted them with penetrating oil so that it is soaking in.

While it is out I plan to change all four rocker covers and gaskets, cam chain covers and gaskets, new rear engine/gearbox mount and buffer, power steering belt and cover, fan drive belts, catalytic converter heat shield, change gearbox lube, engine oil filters and oil. Will also check the clutch as I do not want to have to take it out again in the near future !

Next job, remove all the heater stuff in the engine bay, filter housing, exhaust boxes. Then label up all the electrical connections and disconnect.

Just need a good day weather wise this week and hopefully engine out in time for Easter.

Anyone else on here changed lower rocker covers before as I have fitted a new lower LH one before I started all this and the bolts appear to be leaking, do the bolts need thread sealer on them and if so what did you use?

Also anyone else on here taken their engine out and can point out any pitfalls before I fall into them ?

Cheers,

Andy B

sidned · Mar 29, 2010

Hi Andy,

Hats off to you for doing this on your own. I'm afraid I can't offer any advice, but make sure you take loads of pictures as we'd all love to see how our cars come apart and (hopefully) back together again. [

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Porker993 · Mar 29, 2010

Yes, pictures please !

clyde · Mar 29, 2010

Andy, I haven't done it myself but my indi told me the last time I was in (to get the cam cover gaskets replaced) that the plastic cam covers have inserts (rubber I think) in them through which the bolts go. The seal between the inserts and the covers can go, resulting in the weeping you are seeing. The only cure is to replace the covers. Apparantly the covers themselves are also prone to cracking, possibly due to not being torqued up correctly.

All the best with the work and as Sidned said if you could post pictures of the removal process that would be great.

Andy B Aces High · Mar 29, 2010

Thanks everyone, keep any advice coming.

Ref the Cam Covers, it is a new cover fitted and the oil seems to be coming down the threads and past the head. A Porsche Technician told me they usually apply some thread sealer, so spoke to Loctite today and they have recommended Loctite 273 so got some of that ready to go.

Will try to post pics, unfortunately I have tried this before without success...seemed harder than taking the engine out !! Once I have taken some will see what I can do. Will also check out the Rennlist site, there seems to be quit a few sites with advice on them.

Cheers,

Andy.

clyde · Mar 30, 2010

I wouldn't have thought any thread sealer would be necessary as the gaskets have holes through which the bolts go, effectively sealing all around the bolts. The tapped holes in the cam casing aren't open ended are they?

Also remembered the inserts in the cam covers are steel to enable them to be torqued up correctly, not rubber as I suggested in my earlier post.

Andy B Aces High · Mar 31, 2010

Not too sure what is going on Clyde, the covers have an aluminium insert and you are correct the gasket does seal in the insert area but mine are still leaking. I have read somewhere, I think it was on pcar.com, that you shouldn't wind the bolts in until the insert bottoms out. Will to talk to a Porsche Technician again about it.

Hope the weather is going to be good tomorrow because the engine is coming out then.

Andy B Aces High · Apr 3, 2010

Engines out, broken studs removed. These were seriously stuck but large mole grips finally freed them. New rocker covers fitted, working on the cam chain covers now. It is the studs for these that the Porsche technician recommended the sealer. To get to these need to take the Cat off, the captive nuts on the Cat to Manifold joint seem well corroded so will be replacing the captive ones with normal shake proof ones.

Still not sure about the rocker covers bolts, some say (including OPC) that the bolts should be tightened until the alloy inserts touch then just a tweak on the allen key. But I have read others advising to just tighten until the seal touches then another 1/4 turn, tried this but it is difficult to get all the bolts to nip up. Anyone else tried this method ?

Next gearbox off to check the clutch and replace power steering belt.

I think taking the engine out was supposed to happen as I found the clutch slave cylinder hose chaffed half way through and ready to fail, as we are going on a trip across Europe in May it could have caused some problems.

Have been taking pic's along the way and will post towards the end of the job.

Andy B.

clyde · Apr 4, 2010

Thanks for the update Andy

day1zero · Apr 5, 2010

Brilliant thread !!

Are you going to replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder whilst out - apparently a nightmare to do with engine in !!! Mine had major gear selection issues and a leak in the same hose you have found your problem. Slave cost around £70.00

Good luck with the work !!!

Andy B Aces High · Apr 6, 2010

Cheers guys, Clutch slave cylinder looks in good condition so don't intend to change it. Already spent a fortune on bits up until now !

The back end of the engine is now all sorted. Cam chain covers are back on along with all the tin work around the engine.

Need new gaskets and bolts to put the Cat back on. Gearbox has been off, new clutch fitted and gearbox back on. New clutch housing breather hose fitted, all the remaining bits are cleaned up and resprayed and are ready for refitting.

Intention is to put the engine back in on Thursday, hopefully my OPC can get the final bits I need in for Wednesday.

Still don't know how to post pic's on here !

Andy.

dommorton · Apr 6, 2010

Would love to see the pics of this.

Your best bet is to host them somewhere like Photobucket then post the links to the images here.

You can code the links so the image appears within your thread here using image tags. For some reason this site uses lower case for tags so [img.]link address here[/img.] (remove the dots I only added them so the text would show)

day1zero · Apr 13, 2010

Aces - have you sorted the pictures yet !!!

Andy B Aces High · Apr 13, 2010

Sorry there coming, just finished putting the engine back in and been out for a test run. Kent region club night tomorrow so hoping to post everything Thursday/Friday.

day1zero · Apr 18, 2010

Andy, do you have any photos of the off side fuel rail (under heater/blower) ? Interested to have alook before dismantle to investigate fuel leak.

Cheers

Guards Red · Apr 18, 2010

ORIGINAL: Andy B Aces High

Engines out, broken studs removed. These were seriously stuck but large mole grips finally freed them. New rocker covers fitted, working on the cam chain covers now. It is the studs for these that the Porsche technician recommended the sealer. To get to these need to take the Cat off, the captive nuts on the Cat to Manifold joint seem well corroded so will be replacing the captive ones with normal shake proof ones.

Still not sure about the rocker covers bolts, some say (including OPC) that the bolts should be tightened until the alloy inserts touch then just a tweak on the allen key. But I have read others advising to just tighten until the seal touches then another 1/4 turn, tried this but it is difficult to get all the bolts to nip up. Anyone else tried this method ?

Next gearbox off to check the clutch and replace power steering belt.

I think taking the engine out was supposed to happen as I found the clutch slave cylinder hose chaffed half way through and ready to fail, as we are going on a trip across Europe in May it could have caused some problems.

Have been taking pic's along the way and will post towards the end of the job.

Andy B.

Hi Andy,

I think the workshop manual states to tighten them up to 7lb feet progressively from the middle out.

What did you use to drop the engine? What did you to raise the car?

Kudos to you for having the balls to do this yourself!

Regards
GR

Andy B Aces High · Apr 18, 2010

Right this is it then, the engine is all back in and has now done 300 miles. So far everything seems fine and everything is working. Will do a spanner check next weekend.

Engine out basic principles from the article on www.pcarworshop.com website.

This was the final list of jobs done and bits replaced:-
Clutch
Clutch Slave Cylinder + Hose
4 x Rocker Covers + Gaskets
2 x Rear Cam Chain Covers + Gaskets
Tin work around engine stripped down, cleaned and re-sprayed
New Spark Plugs
Oil Filters + Oil
Transmission Oil
Clutch Housing Breather Hose
Vee Belts x 3 off
Catalytic Convertor Heat Shields x 2 off
Manifold to Cat Joints
Transmission Damper
Power Steering Belt + Cover
Replaced many fasteners with new and put them back in with copper slip or Omega 90 anti seize compound.
Engine bay tidied up, waxoyl sprayed in the inaccessible places.
Engine Back in.

To drop the engine I used a sheet of 3/4in ply and fabricated some supports around the crank case using 2in x 1in timber to form a jacking area on the engine centre line. Then dropped the engine down on the jack so that the manifolds/heat exchanger area rested on 2 x Skateboards, another Skateboard was placed under the transmission. Once this was stable, jacked the back of the car up to clear the fan housing and wheeled the engine/transmission out.

Invaluable during engine removal and dismantling was a penetrating oil used in industry called Omega 636, this stuff is really good and far better than WD40 or the stuff you can get from car stores.

Lessons learnt:- To get the engine out, break the clutch slave cylinder line on the RH transmission tunnel as with this out of the way it is far easier to drop the gearbox the clutch bleeding which is not too difficult to do anyway once you discover the below :-
Clutch bleeding, if you follow the www.pcar.com website article then remember to clamp the reservoir overflow hose as this is not mentioned in the article. Pressure bleeding is the only way to bleed the clutch.

I really need to thank a few people who's help has been invaluable, the guys at Porsche Centre Tonbridge Aaron, Nick and Martin and especially John Hosking in the parts department who has been fantastic support.

And a really special thanks to a really good friend Dave Hurst who gave me over 2 days help getting the engine out and back in and assisting with the clutch bleed.

Photos are on this link, think they are in random order but you will get the idea.

Cheers,

Andy B.

http://s917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/AndyBAcesHigh/Porsche%20Engine/

Andy B Aces High · Apr 18, 2010

Forgot to mention a bit about getting the gearbox off, I jacked the gearbox until it was level then placed a Skateboard under with timber on it so the the gearbox was level with the jack out. The back end off the engine needs some timber to stop it dropping. Undo the bell housing fasteners and jiggle the the release arm (after removing the release arm spindle) as you go and the box slides on and off the engine easily with just one person.

Andy B