Quick update: both front units upgraded to B6, refurbished and back on the car. Very happy with the work, would deffinately recommend.
Some tips for other amateurs looking to do the same for the front:
One question, it appears that the brakes used to have a scoop for directing air for cooling. Neither side has them but the parts catalogue shows that they weren't an optional fit. They're not too expensive so is it worth purchasing new ones and fitting whilst I'm there or not bother? The catalogue shows that they are retained with 4 self tappers, there doesn't appear to be a thread to engage though.
Some tips for other amateurs looking to do the same for the front:
- Take lots of pictures before taking apart!
- You'll need a strong large box to send and return. I picked up one from IKEA which was an ideal size. Use lots of bubble wrap.
- If you're sending the complete unit (with top mount) get some replacement 2nd hand springs, get these refurbished and send with the struts to be assembled onto the completed unit. They'll come back looking a treat and you can always refurb the old springs and sell or keep for spares. I have a powder coaters that coated my motorbike springs so they've powder coated these and they look fab.
- Order replacement fittings from OPC. They're cheaper, most are on the same diagram and you know they'll be correct.
- The plastic harness clips locate with a preformed core that is hammered into place to secure it on once located. Do this before attaching the strut to the car!
- If the ABS earth stud shears it's fine and an easy job to weld a replacement on. I was assured that they all do that sir. Managed to save one though!
- You'll need a spring washer and a M6 nylock for the ABS earth connection.
- Replace the top mount foam sealing rings, they're only a fiver each from OPC.
- If you're keeping the top mount, mask the threads and rubber off, brush off corrosion and give it a quick once over with hamerite before putting in the car. They come up a treat!
- New fittings are easier to place back on the car. I had all new bolts, nuts and Washers (including the 4 top mount Washers and nuts and the plastic liner push on nuts).
- I didn't need spring compressors in the end but I had them on anyway. Make sure to put masking tape on the springs to protect them and place them on the two accesable sides of the spring when on the car!
- Make sure the steering is straight before reattaching the strut assembly. A lot of swearing and levering occurred before realising this helped align the through holes. The clue was that one side was way easier than the other to align!
- If you have to take the inner plastic liner out (I had to to replace the ABS harness due to a snapped earth cable) the plastic nuts that hold them in place are very hard to put back on. They are not threaded, they push on but need a lot of force which isn't easy to muster in the confines of a wheel arch! Drop them in boiling water for a few mins and hammer on with an old socket and extender bar. Works a treat.
- The large retaining bolt and the eccentric bolt are tightened to 100nm. Top mounts are secured with 25nm.
- Oil leaking is fine. The B6 Inserts are gas filled and the oil is between the insert and the inside of the strut to keep the insert cool. There's no proper seal so it can leak through the thread in transit. Wipe up as much as you can when on the car and again after a couple of days and you should be OK.
One question, it appears that the brakes used to have a scoop for directing air for cooling. Neither side has them but the parts catalogue shows that they weren't an optional fit. They're not too expensive so is it worth purchasing new ones and fitting whilst I'm there or not bother? The catalogue shows that they are retained with 4 self tappers, there doesn't appear to be a thread to engage though.