Gearbox Cooler pipe
- Thread starter PhilKent
- Start date
Just thought I'd resurrect the thread instead of littering Ken's 944 Turbo thread with stuff.
My gearbox cooler was leaking from the output end at the oil pump and was due to a worn pipe end. The pipe end is a separate piece of milled aluminium that is stuck to the end of the cooler tube with some sort of glue / epoxy. If you carefully heat it up you can twist the end off.
I took the end to a local engineering shop and they were able to mill me a replica piece which feels much better quality than the original. They recommended to use a softer epoxy if possible to rejoin the end to the tube due to the vibrations it will no doubt suffer when mounted to the gearbox.
My gearbox cooler was leaking from the output end at the oil pump and was due to a worn pipe end. The pipe end is a separate piece of milled aluminium that is stuck to the end of the cooler tube with some sort of glue / epoxy. If you carefully heat it up you can twist the end off.
I took the end to a local engineering shop and they were able to mill me a replica piece which feels much better quality than the original. They recommended to use a softer epoxy if possible to rejoin the end to the tube due to the vibrations it will no doubt suffer when mounted to the gearbox.
scam75 said:
They extracted the broken bolts from my waste gate as well and all in it came to £90 to make you feel better
I've just read Ken's thread from start to finish - I thought I was mad
one thing I learnt is that I'm going to get my clutch from Amazon! (not quite as cheap as Ken managed though)
Rich Harman had his gearbox oil cooler fittings tapped and screwed M to AN adaptors in when he rebuilt it. Probably not an in-situ option due to swarf, etc. but those D9 adaptors are 150 Euros now! Something I need to address at some point as mine sweats a bit, mind you it has for the last 10 years and no leaks yet.
On clutches, I’ve done some digging through a contact and got part numbers for custom friction plates to be made up by Helix Clutches. Range from £250 for a standard organic one through to £350 for a 6-puck paddle for something spicier - 15 day lead time and made to order in the UK.
On clutches, I’ve done some digging through a contact and got part numbers for custom friction plates to be made up by Helix Clutches. Range from £250 for a standard organic one through to £350 for a 6-puck paddle for something spicier - 15 day lead time and made to order in the UK.
I was browsing the Sachs Performance website - they have some spicy paddle clutches for the 944 Turbo but they are over 1000 euros
I've placed an order for the clutch kit from Amazon, says it will come from Europe and hasn't given me an expected delivery date yet (£420 inc VAT and duty). My budget might be taking a big hit though after what I found today...
I've placed an order for the clutch kit from Amazon, says it will come from Europe and hasn't given me an expected delivery date yet (£420 inc VAT and duty). My budget might be taking a big hit though after what I found today...
scam75 said:
Thanks Stuart [
]So after spending far too much time researching different epoxies to stick my end back on, eventually I settled on JB Weld as I already had some in my bits drawer.
Prepared the pipe end with some sandpaper, also the inside of the end piece and thoroughly cleaned using brake cleaner.
Mixed up far to much JB Weld and completely covered the pipe end with a thick layer being careful not to get any inside the pipe (that would be bad).
Then slowly twisted the end piece of the pipe end until it was flush, cleaned off the excess epoxy and smoothed the junction between the two pieces.
Next step is to give it a fresh lick of radiator spray paint.
Hope it holds up once it is back on the car...
Waylander said:
I hope not [&o]
The stuff Porsche used wasn't much different from what I could see, after I heated up the old piece it just twisted right off and the compound was soft like putty / clay (not sure if that was the heat or it just hadn't completely set when originally fitted).
I'm going to flush the gearbox oil after 100 miles or so (car won't be on the road for months at this rate anyhow) so will be checking under the back of the car every 5 minutes for a leak. I know Ken used some fancy epoxy from a UK supplier and as far as I'm aware his has held up so far. I'm hoping the vibration shouldn't be so bad as the loop is anchored to the gearbox only and I will be using rubber hose at the clamping points...
The potential alternative I saw was similar to plumbers putty for sealing leaks in pipes and comes as two sticks that you mix together.
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