Gearbox-end gear change linkage

[zcacogp]

Chaps,

Quickie. I am planning to improve on the rather old and worn gearshift mechanism on top of the gearbox on my S2. I know what I plan to do, but in order to do this I will need to gain access to the top of the 'box to remove the old mechanism and both make and fit the new mechanism.

How low can you get the gearbox without taking it off the torque tube? I have had it off before (to do the clutch) but that was 4 years ago and I can't remember what sort of access you get with it still attached. I am guessing the easiest way to lower it is to un-bolt the bolts at the ends of the crossmember? (When I did the clutch I undid the gearbox mount from the crossmember which was a real fiddle.) How restrictive is everything else? For instance, do I have to remove the exhaust and driveshafts to get to maximum drop?

I have had a fiddle around without removing anything and, while I can just about get my hands onto the mechanism I can't see anything, and don't have enough space to get any tools in. It will have to come down 6-9 inches to do what I want to do.


Oli.

 

[944 man]

Pictures when you do, please. []

 

[zcacogp]

Happy to post 'em up, but I am trying to gauge whether this will be a quick-and-easy job (i.e possible with the gearbox lowered but still attached) or a bigger, drawn-out two-person job involving taking the gearbox off the car and hence the car off the road for a few days (which I don't want to have to do.)

Any ideas as to how well one can access the gearlinkage without removing the whole 'box would be welcome ...


Oli.

 

[Hairyarse]

Oli, have a word with Rob Wright. I know he re-shimmed his rear linkage with sections of a Boddington's beer can and it worked a treat! He may be able to give you some tips []

 

[Duffman502]

I changed the whole rear linkage for a new schnell item and made up a new stabiliser a la 944 foot to the floor method with it all still in situe it is a little fiddly but using some ratchet spanners it didnt take too long. Surely this must be quicker?
Link showing the stabiliser bar
http://944foot2thefloor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/12/how-to-fit-short-shift-shifter-linkage.html?m=1

 

[944Scott]

Take the exhaust off and bend the heat shield back and you will have enough space to swap it.

 

[zcacogp]

Andy, Thanks. I'd forgotten that but your reminder jogged my memory. I've PM'ed Rob and hopefully he will pop up on here. (I haven't seen him on the forum for a while - I hope he's OK).

Joe - that's exactly what I am thinking of doing. The stabiliser bar, not the short shift linkage, but I'll have a look at that while I am in there. How did you gain access to the top of the 'box? Did you lower it at all or just fit your hands into the small gap? Did you remove anything else to do the work? How hard was it and how much improvement did you get? (How many questions can I ask?!)

Scott, sounds like you've been there as well. Thanks for the advice. I was hoping to avoid getting the exhaust off but if it's unavoidable ... hmmm.

Thanks again chaps.


Oli.

 

[Frenchy]

Boddingtons !

 

[os951]

Place a proper jack under the transaxle. After that just loosen two bolts holding transaxle to the body. Then you can drop transaxle few cm's, which allows you to work with linkage

 

[J4CKO]

Surely you dont need to drop the transaxle ?

I did mine just by as has been mentioned, moving the exhaust and bending the heat shield, clearance is tight but it is do-able, Halfords ratchet spanners make removing the stabiliser bar (much) easier.

I tried the Schnell item but couldnt make it work on mine, it wouldnt go in reverse so I got a good S/H linkage and cleaned that up and it improved it no end, I had to cut my original one off as it was stuck to the selector shaft, I am glad I replaced it as the bush for the left/right plane was siezed.

Even if the short shift had worked, I am not sure I would have liked it, there is not much wrong with a well adjusted original with no play in, not the best gearchange in the world but not bad.

The trouble with dropping the transaxle is that the minute you hae to adjust it again, its enough of a pain in the bum getting it on stands and whatever, never mind dropping the box.

If you want my schnell quickshift you are welcome to make me a cash offer (£25, delivered, cost me £60), dont think there is anything wrong with it, just it wouldnt work on my car.

I think the linkage kind of needs a little give with the rubber washers unless you can really get it set up spot on, I was goign to replace the support with some threaded bar with rose joints on but gave up, was happy to accept a car that went in all six gears (including reverse in that number).

 

[Eldavo]

Mark - If Oli doesn't want the shortshift then I'll buy it from you.

Thanks.

 

[zcacogp]

Mark,

Thanks - that's helpful. Particularly helpful to know that you can drop the gearbox enough to get reasonable access to the top of it without removing it from the TT. Did you also remove the driveshafts, or leave them attached?

Interesting to read your thoughts about the fact that the adjustment on the stabiliser bar would need to be spot on for a rose-jointed version to work. This is the thing that I am planning on doing, so I will report back on here with my findings!

Dave/Mark, I'm happy to give Mark's short shift kit a miss (thanks for first refusal tho'!) so it's all yours Dave.


Oli.

 

[J4CKO]

Oli,

Yes, there is *enough* access, its tight but not impossible, its getting the 17 mm bolt off that is a pain but doable, less pain than unbolting the transmission, perhaps depends on how big your hands are, mine are average size but suspect for someone with big sausage fingers it might be a struggle. The flex ratchet spanners are a god send as otherwise you have to, unsighted get a ring spanner on the 17mm bolt and turn it 1/4 turn then repeat, with the ratchet you dont need to keep putting it on the bolt, still can take a while and hopefully yours comes off easily, have some Swarfega handy as you will get filthy if your car is like mine, I didnt have to remove a driveshaft btw.

I think the Rose jointed one could work but I was having such a struggle I gave up and just wanted my car working again. I would ensure that if you need it you keep the original intact in case you need the car and are having issues getting it to all gears. I was worried I had a problem inside the box but I beleive that is very rare.

I am happy with it as standard with very little play in, not going to match an S2000 or MX5 but its fine, much better, what I set out to do but I hadnt anticipated the agro I was going to have, this car does seem to like to offer the odd challenge !

Am happy to actually contribute something potentially useful after all the good advce and support I have had off you lot !

 

[zcacogp]

Mark,

Trust me, your technical contributions to this thread are very valued - and contributions to the rest of the forum valued as well!

OK, so it's restricted but possible. Good, thanks. I have some ratchet-ring spanners, but they aren't the flexible type. I'll choose them as weapons of first resort. And it sounds like I'm in for a bit of a miserable job! Still, as you say, it must be easier than dropping the 'box off the end of the TT (which is a pig of a job!)

I'm pretty happy with the gearshift as it is - I replaced the pin in the side of the gearlever with a bit of machined stainless steel bar and some 968 bushes and it's improved it hugely. I guess I am just after more improvement if I can find it ... a shorter shift is something I am not that fussed about, I'm more after precision and losing the remaining slop.

Thanks again. I'll keep this thread updated ...


Oli.

 

[J4CKO]

Really, spend the £39.99 on these, total lifesaver and on offer as well.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_811703_langId_-1_categoryId_165572

Or, just by the 17MM one, might we worth a try with the rigid ratchet but you tend to hit the boot floor, these allow a wider arc.

Probably the best thing I have bought in ages.

 

[zcacogp]

Thanks ... I'll see what's in the piggy bank!


Oli.

 

[Mike_Pollock]

I did mine in situ.

When the stabiliser broke -

 

[Duffman502]

Ratchet spanners are a must for the job i as i was replaceing with a short shift i took that off and slotted the ratchet spanner above the box mine arent flexible either so it can be done however be prepared for a few grazed knuckles

 

[J4CKO]

I was working on mine in the winter, was the most unpleasant job when cold, 20/30 mins to get that 17MM bolt off at a quarter turn per spanner application, about 5 mins with a ratchet.

 

[robwright]

Oli sorry it's been a few days from your message but I have done a quick sketch on photobucket to show how I managed to shim my gea linkage. In my case this was to take some of the side to side slop when in gear. Fashion some discs from a beer tin (preferably used) as the metal is nice and thin and can be easily cut and also easily inserted. Cut a rectangular slot in the desired amount of shims to fit over the shaft that runs laterally on the gearbox through the plastic busshing (see diagram below). This can be done with the gear linkage still attached but the car will need to be raised at the rear. Please not this is not a permanent fix but was quite effective in my case. If the transaxle is out and the linkage is worn obviously a new linkage is always going to give you the most positive feeling. Hope the diagram below explains it OK. Note the instruction should read one or both sides.