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guards red paint...or is it orange????

Richard my local paint firm in Enfield (Morelli's) mixed a can on the spot for me from the paint code I've only tried it on odd bits of metal so far but it's a good match bearing in mind that new and old paint always has a slightly different shade and red is a sod to match. I t cost less than tenner last year, the percentage of mixed paint is hand written on a label on the aerosol but as the colours are written as codes I can't tell you what they are or scan a round can. HQ is 020 8886 1801
 
I has the engine cover, bumper and O/S/F wing painted on my old Rosewood SC at the bodyshop of the dealers I work at. Used the Porsche paint code and it was about two shades out. Even with the modern cars we deal with there might be one colour code but all the shades can vary. We ended up sending the engine cover away to our paint supplier so that they could match it. Took them about a week but came back spot on with the exact paint formula on the side of the tin. So if it ever needs doing again all that needs to be done is take the paint formula to the bodyshop and they can get a batch made up.
Also the pigment in red cars can fade over time so it would be very difficult to get an exact match.
 
David

............ and according to my records, the Reds are:

1983 / 1984 - India Red 027 LM3A G8 - Kiln Red (Metallic] 811 X3
1985 / 1986 - India Red 027 LM3A G1
1985 / 1986 - Garnet Red [(Metallic) 822 LM3Y S2
1987 / 1988 - Cherry / Carmine Red 80F - Indian Red 80K LM3A G1 - Maraschino Red (Metallic) LY3V
1989 - Indian Red 80K G1 - Velvet Red (Metallic) 81L U6

There appears to be some question as to the difference, if any, between India Red / Indian Red and Guards Red!

R.
 
And then if you call it Indis Rot as the Germans do it's even more confusing, I asked for Guards Red at the paint mixers, they supplied Guards Red (027) but the tin's label said Indis Rot!? looks like a good match to me. I just look at my car now after 20 years of ownership and call it Guards Red-ish
 
David

What colour indeed ................... both 1989, both Indian Red.

Maybe it's down to the photographer!

R.

Acknowledgements GT

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Do you mean the stuff from manufacturers with a paint stick in? If you do the idea is that you paint it onto tiny blemishes , stone chips etc. but it's almost unusable really as it leaves a blob of paint no matter how careful you are , there are other products out there claiming to leave no paint blob behind.
 
I have 2 944's ... one 16v S and one 8v LUX. The S is a true red and extremely re-painted (so much so, the black nuts inside the hatch area are red not black!). I suspect it is early 90's BMW Brilliant red (not zinnaber) as it is more "red" than Guards or Indian. The LUX has very original paintwork but is absolutely "Guards Orange".

When I reversed the S into my garage a rogue summer chair (perched on top of the tumble-dryer) had moved and sliced a one-ince scrape along the rear left-hand flank.

I will soon find out the paint code from my Bodyshop manager at work.
 
Well Halfords cannot mix my paint, but they can get it direct from some paint supplier. So, they will call when its ready and I will duly test it out and see if it matches.
 
Do you mean the stuff from manufacturers with a paint stick in? If you do the idea is that you paint it onto tiny blemishes , stone chips etc. but it's almost unusable really as it leaves a blob of paint no matter how careful you are , there are other products out there claiming to leave no paint blob behind.

We had a talk from a chap in a R11 club meeting last year and gave some tips for using these touch up paints.

Thin the paint slightly in an aerosol tin lid or something similar.
Dip a pin in the paint and apply to the centre of the chip. Capilary (spelling [&:]) action will draw the paint into the chip. Allow to go off slightly before repeating. Apply a small amount each time building up to the level of the surrounding paint (being very patient I guess). Use a cloth wrapped around an old credit card with metholated spirits to remove any paint on the surrounding edges and to 'flat off' the final application.

Havent tried this myself yet though...
 
Les

I apply a slightly different technique. Shake that can untill you really get bored with doing it and then do it again intermitanly between usage.

Lightly abrade the area in the base of the chip with something sharp / pointed - EG a scriber.

Spray a small quantity of paint into the can lid, or whatever, and wait a while to allow the 'spirit' to evaporate a little. This way the paint is a little thicker and wont 'wander off' so easily!

Pick up a small quantity on the touch-up brush, enough to slightly overfill the chip, and apply. The paint will indeed 'pull-down' into the chip.

The trick is applying just the right quantity of paint. Underfilling will allow you to apply a little more. Overfilling .................

When you've finished, invert the can and depress the nozzle to clear it!

R.
 
Gentlemen - try this product - " LANGKA".

It's available from Frost Restorations http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?page=3 under the painting section, page 3 of 4.

It's a blob dissolver which when applied smooths out the blob into the chip. They have a video of a child repairing chips on a car bonnet. I have been using it for around a year on my car, it's really easy and the results can be very good without a huge amount of effort.

Only good for chips and scratches though.


 

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