Handbrake and Oil Warning Lights

[chrisjcoe]

Hi all

I decided to take the S2 to work today but, due to a couple of reasons, turned around and went home again.

One of the problems was the handbrake warning light came on and would not go off despite messing about with the handbrake for a while. The other was the red oil warning light was on. I checked the oil and it was half way between the 2 marks on the dipstick. I've read this post which seemed very useful.

Firstly, I assume it was the oil light, it was red and at the bottom of the cluster on the left. I wish I'd paid more attention but I was already late and I'm almost catatonic in the morning, especially after my cat decides to walk across my head at 3am during the night. If it was oil, would that level trigger the warning light to come on? I have only noticed one small spot of oil on the floor since I've had to car (a few months), the exhaust does not smoke, and rather badly I haven't got round to doing a mini self-service on the car yet, so I don't think the car is losing much at all. I was going to top it up for now as I don't have the tools for even remedial work yet, is this the type I should go for? As soon as I get the tools I'll be doing a full oil change, but this might not be for a few weeks still.

Secondly, I couldn't notice any slowdown when rolling the car with the handbrake off but the warning light on. So, this sits with the suggestion on the other thread that it could be brake fluid level. I think I have some at home, if not I will just get this stuff. However, if it was low enough to trigger the handbrake warning light, wouldn't there be a warning on the cluster for brake fluid?

Sorry for probably simple/stupid questions, but I have no handbook for the S2 and haven't found one online yet.

Thanks guys

 

[T3rra]

Both the hand brake and oil light can trigger the ! Light. The handbrake light is only triggered by a small button under the handbrake that is depressed by the weight off the handbrake leaver, nothing less, button could be sticking or needs contacts cleaned.

Oil light is much more serious, but could be triggered 2 ways, oil level and oil pressure. Sometimes the dash lights can play up, worth turn off the ingition and back on again. Iv read the oil level light can sometimes be triggered when 3/4 full rather then low. If it a major leak u MIT see lower oil pressure. But if u got no oil pressure, and the light is on, don't drive the car

In terms off a service, u will need. Jack or ramps, 2 get 2 the oil sump nut.
Spark plug socket 19mm
And a 12/10 mm spanner/ socket as the air filter is under the removable badge pannle
a screw driver

All off this Should be in the tool roll if u have one.

 

[robdimond]

My oil light comes on when the dipstick is bang on the minimum mark. These engines do use oil in varying amounts, both internally and also the undertray can mask quite substantial leaks (I know I have some and never see oil spots on the driveway).

The oil thing has been done to death, but for that money you can get Valvoline VR-1 20w50 from ECP which is what I use. You would also be in good company using a 10w40 semi-synthetic, but not sure how good that comma stuff is, or if it has the zddp additive that our engines like. The most important thing is to change it often.

 

[chrisjcoe]

get Valvoline VR-1 20w50 from ECP

Thanks, this oil looks good, and free delivery too. I will be ordering tonight!

Both the hand brake and oil light can trigger the ! Light.

That's good to know, I have nothing worry about with the brakes, handbrake or brake fluid, it's purely oil related.

could be triggered 2 ways, oil level and oil pressure

It wasn't on minimum, it was about half way up, but will check tonight again when I get home. If the oil is half way, does this imply a more serious problem, such as oil pump or a more fundamental engine problem? Would topping up the oil mask the pressure problem until it dropped enough again?

 

[T3rra]

Try topping up the Oil. I wouldn't mix it and drive it to much. It's about ltr from minuim 2 full. So u MIT need half a ltr. Could try something cheap 4 now just 2 get the level up.

But I would try restarting the car a few times MIT go away. What pressure was you seeing? Make sure the niddle sits about 1 bar when all the dash lights are on, but engine isn't running, if it reads 5 bar here, ur sender could be fuatly or the wires are touching or free

 

[Copperman05]

If the oil level is low enough for the warning light to come on this will make the ! light come on also. Mine come on when the oil is about half way between the marks so very early. Personally I think 20W50 is a little thick for a road car especially if used in the winter but that's a whole different thread. Go for a branded semi at the very least, 10w40/15w40 is plenty thick enough, or a 10w50 synth if you track it.


Edd

 

[chrisjcoe]

I'm treating it gentle, no track days until I get all the necessary bits and pieces fixed!

 

[david924s]

YOu can sometimes get the oil light on if the level is a little low and the car is parked on an incline mine tends to come on when the dip stick indicates minimum although only happened once after a return trip to Silverstone and the Lake District some 800 miles of hard driving so my own fault or not checking the level sooner.

 

[Swindon_Mick]

Check the brake fluid - warning light connected to float in reservoir

 

[Swindon_Mick]

Just to elaborate on my post above (which I sent from my phone hence the brevity!) - the brake warning light is in effect connected to two switches in parallel (i.e either of them car trigger the light) - one is the microswitch under the handbrake lever; the other is the fluid level sensor in the reservoir. Many people think the warning light is merely there to tell you if the handbrake has been left on 'cos that what it appears to do i.e handbrake up, warning light on, handbrake down, warning light off.

In fact, the handbrake microswitch is there to meet the legal requirement for a 'bulb testing mechanism' for the warning light. The primary purpose of the warning light is to tell you if your brake fluid level is low, which could indicate a leaking seal, which could lead to a loss of brakes. This is not to say that it won't be a faulty microswitch, but please check the level in the reservoir as well.

Mick

 

[chrisjcoe]

ORIGINAL: Swindon_Mick

Just to elaborate on my post above (which I sent from my phone hence the brevity!) - the brake warning light is in effect connected to two switches in parallel (i.e either of them car trigger the light) - one is the microswitch under the handbrake lever; the other is the fluid level sensor in the reservoir. Many people think the warning light is merely there to tell you if the handbrake has been left on 'cos that what it appears to do i.e handbrake up, warning light on, handbrake down, warning light off.

In fact, the handbrake microswitch is there to meet the legal requirement for a 'bulb testing mechanism' for the warning light. The primary purpose of the warning light is to tell you if your brake fluid level is low, which could indicate a leaking seal, which could lead to a loss of brakes. This is not to say that it won't be a faulty microswitch, but please check the level in the reservoir as well.

Mick

Thanks, so are the engine oil warning and the brake warning separate, or if the engine oil warning illuminates, does the exclamation mark warning come on at the same time? I plan to top up the engine oil in the next day or two, and hoped that would stop the warnings.

 

[Swindon_Mick]

Chris - I'm not sure how the ! warning light is wired as my 944 does not have an original dashboard, but thinking back to my previous 944 and 968 I think that the ! light is a catch-all that illuminates when anything 'serious' has happened (serious = something that could damage the car or driver!).

If your brake warning light is lit then please check your brake fluid level - the reservoir mounted on the master cylinder (in front of the servo) has min / max lines so it's an easy job. Always better to be safe than sorry!

Mick

 

[Copperman05]

ORIGINAL: chrisjcoe

ORIGINAL: Swindon_Mick

Just to elaborate on my post above (which I sent from my phone hence the brevity!) - the brake warning light is in effect connected to two switches in parallel (i.e either of them car trigger the light) - one is the microswitch under the handbrake lever; the other is the fluid level sensor in the reservoir. Many people think the warning light is merely there to tell you if the handbrake has been left on 'cos that what it appears to do i.e handbrake up, warning light on, handbrake down, warning light off.

In fact, the handbrake microswitch is there to meet the legal requirement for a 'bulb testing mechanism' for the warning light. The primary purpose of the warning light is to tell you if your brake fluid level is low, which could indicate a leaking seal, which could lead to a loss of brakes. This is not to say that it won't be a faulty microswitch, but please check the level in the reservoir as well.

Mick

Thanks, so are the engine oil warning and the brake warning separate, or if the engine oil warning illuminates, does the exclamation mark warning come on at the same time? I plan to top up the engine oil in the next day or two, and hoped that would stop the warnings.

The ! warning light will come on for several reasons, one of them being low oil level but also low pressure, handbrake on, high engine temps and low brake fluid. Check your levels (oil, brake fluid, clutch fluid) top up. What other red light is on besides the ! as each one will have its corresponding light.


Edd

 

[chrisjcoe]

Thanks all.

At the weekend I'm going shopping for the following:-
Trolley Jack £48
Pin axle stands £20
Oil collector £6 which looks quite handy
Oil! £21

And if I want to spend frivolously, One of these to lay on £26

My dad has a decent set of spanners, and I have a decent socket set, so I hope they will do the job for now.

I should probably change the oil filter while I'm at it though, and Clarks recommend the oil drain plug seal ring too, neither of these I have! It also says to tighten the drain plug to a specific torque, and I have no torque wrench yet either. So, would you recommend leaving the oil change until I've stocked up a bit more, because I was looking at the Halfords torque wrench which is a bit beyond my budget this month

 

[zcacogp]

Chris,

Those will work as tools to service the thing. You will also need to clean (or replace) the air filter, which lives under the badge panel on your S2. A 1/4inch socket set is ideal to get the small hex-head screws in the corners out, but you will need to go carefully if you are taking it off for the first time. The badge panel is surprisingly big and heavy, and easily damaged while off the car.

Jack the car in the middle of the sills, NOT at the ends! There is a diamond-shaped indent in the sills to show you where to jack.

You don't need a torque wrench to remove and replace the drain plug, but you do need a 15mm spanner to do this. Some socket sets don't have 15mm as it's not a common size. When you replace it, a new seal washer is a good idea but not essential (you can re-use it once), and just nip it up fairly tight. Don't strip the thread. Do remember to wipe any metal particles off the back of it while it is out (it's got a small magnet in it for that purpose!)

Changing the oil filter is an essential part of the service, as is changing the plugs.

A torque wrench is however essential if you are doing up the wheel nuts. Not having one may well mean you suffer from wheel wobble (a problem I struggled with a lot, until I bought a torque wrench.)


Oli.

 

[chrisjcoe]

Thanks Oli

I wasn't intending on doing a full service, just an oil change really, but I'm taking in every bit of advice. I will be changing the oil filter, and have no idea if the seal ring has been changed recently so would rather just put a new one on. I am assuming there would be no problem with me waiting for another month or 2 before changing the air filter and plugs.

 

[zcacogp]

Chris,

Sealing ring on the plug; changing it is the correct and proper thing to do, for sure. They aren't expensive (pennies), but I never seem to have one when I need one!

Waiting to do the plugs and air filter is fine too. Keep us posted with how you get on. (And if you discover a way to remove the old oil filter without spilling half a pint of dirty engine oil all over your driveway then let us know!)


Oli.