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Hatch struts - source?

Well, if the aftermarket ones are the same other than the continuity/insulation issues, then it shouldn't be too hard to get them to work.

I assume that the aftermarket ones are more on the insulated side as you said your demister was poor. I might order a cheap pair to have a look, but it can't be too difficult to insulate the left one from the body and to make the right hand one ground, maybe by removing some of the paint/powder coat where they are fitted to the body, or by soldering an earth wire maybe.

Do your aftermarket ones have any markings on?
 
I can't recall what they say on them. The issue is they have plastic screw on connectors, so that insulates them from the body. The OEM ones have plastic screw on connectors both sides passenger, but only the hatch end on the drivers. It is a metal connector at the chassis end. This is where I will be sorting the earth. There is a spade connector down there on the aftermarket one, previously I had removed it as there looked nothing obvious to plug into it. I now realise that sending an earth to this connector should solve the problem. So the struts were almost plug n play, just one earth wire to run and I think all should be well. I did however have to faff about to get the boot light to work, I done this by cannabalising my driver side OEM strut and removing the sleeve and connector which triggers the boot light and slotting them onto the aftermarket one. My boot light worked fine after this, just not the demister but I now know why! I will report back once I get the earth wire sorted and I've had a bout of steamed up rear window for a test drive!

Stuart
 
try Frazern Part

http://www.frazerpart.com/acatalog/944--924--968-rear-hatch-boot-tail-gate-strut-35-5.html#SID=23
 

ORIGINAL: Nick Paul

try Frazern Part

http://www.frazerpart.com/acatalog/944--924--968-rear-hatch-boot-tail-gate-strut-35-5.html#SID=23
Click to expand...

Again no mention of 2 different parts even though their quoted equivalent porsche parts are different.
Need to ring them and ask I suppose.
 
Well after being sick of my hatch hitting my head I reinstalled the aftermarket strut on the passenger side. Rear demister working perfect and hatch stays up again! I will shove on the other side once I have made up an earth for it and all should be well. The struts are made by liftex and are all black. So if you can get a set of them all you need to do is cannabilise the boot light gubbings from your old OEM strut and also earth the driver strut at chassis end then all should be good. They did come with all necessary spade terminals.

Stuart
 
Are they Liftex part 013863?

That is the set I have and I seem to have cut the fitting off one of the arms (silver bit) , maybe for the same reason?
 
Yes spot on with the part number.

I did not cut anything off them though! If you cut the metal connector off the old OEM strut and replaced the plastic one from the liftex unit that should solve your earth issue. Else just earth the spade at that end and cut nothing!

Stuart
 
Im struggling to find the right ones for my cab - are the rears the same - I looked on PET but cant find difference. Im sure the cab boot ones are somehow shorter then the standard rear ones? - anybody know ( sorry to hijack)
Regards
Frank
 
I ordered a pair from Andy at Promax. They still do the "good" copy ones but they don't seem to be on their website. OPC ones are £44.77 each less any discount.
I'd give Andy a call as he may well have the cab ones too.
 
I finally got a chance to make up an earth yesterday and reinstall my drivers side aftermarket strut and all is now perfect. Demister worked a treat this morning. I made an earth cable up to run from the earth at the rear light cluster. Used a nice thick wire which now connects to the spade terminal at the chassis end of the driver side strut. That along with the previously described boot light gubbings cannabalisation from the OEM strut is all you need to do to get the liftex ones working. Oh and the boot pops up on pressing the button now too! [:D]

Stuart
 
Fitted the new parts and interior lights and alarm/remote locking work fine but the rear screen appears not to. Checked the fuse and that seems fine. I only changed one strut as only one was leaking. Shouldn't make a difference it the rest works should it?
I don't seem to have power across the element but it occurred to me that it may not work with the hatch open. Would make sense but rather harder to check if it has to be shut.
Have I missed anything?
 
David - assuming the aftermarket ones you have are handed, is it possible you have fitted the wrong side?

I don't know for sure but I think the circuit for heated screen works with hatch open, I think the switch on rh strut only operates the light.

You need to check the supply side of heated screen to a good earth (say battery neg) for 12v, and also check voltage or resistance of earth side of screen to battery neg, should have low resistance or low voltage.

If you don't have 12v onto screen it will be a switch/relay issue, if you have high resistance or a voltage to earth on the earth side of screen - then you have a poor earth connection.
 
Hi
Its the right side I have replaced (drivers side).
So forgive the ignorance - car electrics really fiddle with my mind!
So a multimeter between the neg battery terminal and the supply strut (do we know which one?).
Even if we don't I should have 12v to one side and 0 to the other, both to the neg battery terminal?
I will check the relay

One a different but related matter. I need to check for breaks in a heated rear screen. I could have the ignition and the switch on but it will take its toll on the battery. So could I disconnect the screen and power it from an external 12v source? Now I have a 12v transformer and lots of 12v batteries of various sizes.
What's the difference and which should I use? I imagine it has to be with the amp output but what exactly?
Thanks
 
See my posts. The OEM driver side strut earths to body. If your replacement one does not do this you will need to knock up an earth.

Stuart
 
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