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HEATER PROBLEM

Remove glove box and check linkage (A) is in the plastic clip (B)
The clip usually breaks (cost under £2)

Mike

21B56A7F1D3948CBAAB9DB5F4EA4FBF6.gif
 
Hi

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I was wondering if this fairly commen problem can be fixed even if the symptoms occur when the heater/fan controls are all off? My cabin is getting pretty warm at the moment, and I haven't switched anything on! When I do put the fan on to try and cool things down (I know it isnt air con, but I thought it might be worth a try), and it is at its lowest setting, it does seem to blow out warm air?

Thanks in advance.
 
Tim, it 'could' be that your clip has broken so you are getting warm air all the time, but when the engine warms up it will be roasting hot, not just warm. My own black S2 blows warm air for a few minutes after its been standing in this heat, which I can only surmise is warm air from under the bonnet. After a few minutes of driving it is cool again.

It's very easy to check your clip:

1. Disconnect the battery (dont shut the boot [;)]) this stops the lamp blowing a fuse.
2. Open the glovebox and lower it past the stays so it hangs down around your knees.
3. Undo the 5 (or 6) tiny screws that hold the glovebox liner in place.
4. Slide out the liner towards you and unplug the connector for the light when you can.

The rods and clips will be on the R.H side and you can see them now the liner is out of the way. Try setting the dial to different temperatures and watch how the rod moves
 
My symptoms of broken clip were erratic temperature control; it would be fine then would get cold when the vehicle speed dropped and hot when accelerated or vice versa, so it could still be the clip.

I would just remove the interior light fuse rather than diconnect the battery - in fact I just do it "live" because the glove box liner has been in and out so often I know what to avoid popping the fuse.
 
Thanks Paul and Fen, especially for the step by step guide! I was preparing to get into the glovebox this weekend, just wondered in advance if i might be wasting my time but will definitely have a crack at it on Saturday.
 
Does it not work on any of the speed settings - not even setting 4 (i.e. full speed). I'm not aware that the motor iteslf is particularly problematic but there is a resistor pack that controls the 4 different speeds and these are starting to become a common problem. However these things fail safe so you should be able to get speed position 4 which basically is full 12v.
 
I 'assumed' it didn't work on any settings. The seller had to wipe the windscreen throughout the trial run (cleared towards the end).
I phoned him tonight and he said he still couldn't get it to work, so I presume he will have tried all speeds???
Theres a couple more electrical faults (i'll pester you with these later [;)]), but I'm pretty sure I can solve these myself.
Otherwise the car seems a cracker.
 
Hmmm, certainly not a common problem. As Scott said the resistor normally packs up but it will still work full blast when on speed 4. Also try pushing the rapid demist button, this sets the heater to full heat, diverts all teh flaps to screen only and sets the fan to full speed. It 'may' prove the fan itself is working.
 
I had this problem and it drove me mad, some days it would work fine, others not at all. In the end after much hair pulling it was the fuse just not pushed all the way in. [8|]




 
Had a similar problem with the same solution. Just a loose fuse, annoying thing was that the immobiliser was using that fuse as well. The bullet type fuses are very poor compared to the blade type.

Good luck with the purchase.

Cheers,
 
Thanks guys.
I've spoken to a recomended specialist who also said it may just be the fuse. I can't check till I pick it up tomorrow. It also 'may' be the control panel, which he says would have to be sent away to be repaired.
He's never had to replace a motor due to wear, only for squeaks [>:]

Anyhow, tomorrow I pick up my first Porsche!
 
ORIGINAL: Fred Hindle

The bullet type fuses are very poor compared to the blade type.
Click to expand...

Mine are the blade type.

Well I've had a good fiddle with the fuse and relays, I've given the dash a good wallop and I've wiggled the wires connected to the motor, but the motor has only switched itself on (by itself) on three occasions for a total time of around 10 seconds!
So the motor obviously works on all speeds so what else could it be? When it doesn't work it doesn't work on all speeds, including four.

Also the drivers side window motor is inop but when I push the button in the revs drop, so it must be drawing current, which would suggest the motor is ok???. Any ideas?

Ta
 
I still have this intermitent problem with my heater. Its more often not working than working. Made it difficult driving to work with the cold tempreatures we had oop north yesterday. Fortunately mine seems to heat up quickly.
I'm thinking the relay could be a prime suspect, and also it will be the easiest thing to check, if only I had a known working one.
Which brings me nicely to..... Does anyone have a known working one they could loan me? Perhaps post to me? I can return soon as along with a small amount of alcohol tokens [;)]
I've tried ebay. There are various relays but no heater relay.
Its relay number 1 on my 86 turbo. I would imagine they are all the same? Infact I'll update with a pic in a few minutes.

dico4488@yahoo.co.uk

edited with pics (not the best quality)
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h38/samdico/TangmereElan023.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h38/samdico/TangmereElan025.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h38/samdico/TangmereElan024.jpg

There are also various numbers written on the sides -
944.615.119.00 899673 12v 30a

Ta, Dico
 
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