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HEATER PROBLEM

5 legs ... I don't think that is an uncommon relay size. You'll probably find one in any VW/Audi car of the right age in the local scrappy.

Or try having a close gander at the wiring diagram and identifying what it does - as in, what is connected to what, when. You should be able to test it with a shunt wire, effectively mimicing the operation of the relay.

Or test the relay with a 12v supply and an AVO meter.

(Or get someone to post you one!)


Oli.
 
Bumpety bump.

Bring on the heat!!!! [:D]

I finally have the heater working!
I decide the easiest thing to eliminate was the relay. I won a 'set' off ebay for £30. I was pretty annoyed as I was bidding against some guy with zero history, and paid more than I wanted really bearing in mind it was a bit of a gamble.
Imagine my dismay when I open my Ebay goody bag early this morning and find theres no heater relay in there! [:mad:].
The only one that had matching prongs (?) was marked up as being a window motor relay. It looked entirely different than the heater relay and none of the numbers coresponded, but I thought I'd give it a go. Sure enough it works, and on all four speeds too.
Question is - could I be causing any damage by obviously running the wrong relay?



or should I stop thinking and just enjoy the heat [8D]
 
If it works as it should, I'd stop fussing!

(In my experience, the pin pattern on a relay is key to the operation. One pin pattern = a given operation. Therefore, if it fits, it will almost certainly work.)


Oli.
 
Oh eck, its flattened my battery [:mad:]. And it works without ignition, that isn't normal is it?
Looks like I'm back on the hunt for a relay. At least I've narrowed it down to the relay i think.
 
That's a great colour combination looks almost like a RS or Club Sport colour scheme.
I really like the wheels too I didn't think it was possible to make the D90s look that good.
 
Hi Pico, car looks great in that colour scheme.

I've never heard of a complete loss of heat so could only guess at possible causes [&:]:

1. No coolant in heater matrix (did you bleed with heat set to full?)
2. Complete failure of heater control panel
3. A pipe loose, unplugged somewhere (vacumn or coolant)

 
There is a valve between the head and the bulkhead. It is operated by a vacuum pipe and cuts off the water supply to the heater matrix. You can see this lever moving when you operate the heater with the car warmed up. It will remain shut until the engine warms up.

Mike[:'(]
 
Welcome Nigel.
Looks great, the best colour and without silver wheels [:D]
Can't add anything about the heater I'm afraid. Maybe try a thicker jumper? [;)] I'll get me coat...
 
Ultimately to get all of these problems resolved requires a good read through the relevant section in the 944 workshop manual. Just today I completed a fix on my 968 to get the solenoid control for the feet heater output, the manual was very helpful because it has a mixture of diagnostic checks and pictures that explain things much better then we can on here. ISTR its section 87 which is in the Chassis volume.

The heat control ultimately sends electrical power to move a solenoid which ISTR is the middle one of 3 on the left hand side of the heater, it moves the temp mixture flap and baffle flap (ISTR) up and down. If you get on your back under the passenger side of the dash you can see them. You can see the solenoid in particular and its assembly on page 433 section 87-58. To confirm that hot water is in the matrix you can just unclip the rods from the solenoid and move the linkages by hand. I did similar the other day for example to confirm that the output to the feet was OK and is in fact driven by the bottom solenoid. Section 87-62 on page 437 has the diagnostics checks to follow but it will only make sense once one becomes familiar with the various components.

BTW I have one of those PITA vacuum hose problems yet to fix on the 968, the control for setting the system to recirc does nothing. Everything else works fine but when the recirc button is pressed I just get a faint whistling sound so either a pipe has popped of or is holed. Holding my hand by the blower inlet under the bonnet I can feel the same level of air blowing over my hand so I now the flaps are not closing.

Lastly though if the heater worked fine before changing the coolant I would wager 9.9/10 times that its just an air lock in the heater matrix. I remember last time I bled the S2 it only bled completely after I could get the car on a slope so the bleed valve was nice and high.
 
Thanks guys. When the warmer weather returns, I will check out all the posted probs/remedies. The control knob in the cab has no resistance when turning but as is electrical and operates a solenoid, I guess that would be the case.
Cheers and I'll let you know the progress.
The wheels were on when I bought it. They are what swayed me. The red with the chrome edges look great (that is when ther're clean. That was one of the pictures usec to advertise it on Ebay!! (I washed it once since) [;)]
 
Take out the glovebox (disconnect the battery first!) then you can see all the motors/levers that control the flaps that distribute air. I expect you will see something broken!
 
Not sure which way it would fail if there were a vacuum hose of somewhere (which could be in the engine bay as well as under the dash)?
 
if its oval dash someone might of had the dash out and lost or broke the little clip thing that slides into the bit you push up or down to adjust the flow of air



8238B9AE0F6E46C1B517ADC3FAA89E5B.jpg

you have to take the surround out to get it in but watch the little button and spring that resets the tripometer
 
Thanks people

I will have a good look tomorrow night and report back, I originally thought it was the heater control that was gone as I presumed there were no cables to the flap from the control.

Dave S
 
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