How smooth should the gearbox be?
- Thread starter Guest
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Guest
New member
Just found these links that describe the double declutch technique and the heel-toe technique, from TCS Racing:
TCS Racing Tips - Double Declutching
TCS Racing Tips - Heel And Toe
I'll be out somewhere on a quiet road tomorrow evening then - anyone who passes in the Herts area, please give a wave ... [
]
John
TCS Racing Tips - Double Declutching
TCS Racing Tips - Heel And Toe
I'll be out somewhere on a quiet road tomorrow evening then - anyone who passes in the Herts area, please give a wave ... [
]John
bones
New member
Actually it's really cool that your learning a new driving trick, it should enhance the driving experience whilst frightening your passengers as they watch you dance across the pedal box like a Cathedral organist! I'm thinking of going on a days rally driving course for disabled drivers in Yorkshire but I'm going to wait until I can fit it in with a journey to see my folks up North. Then I plan to be mostly sideways.
Guest
New member
Heel-and-Toe is a technique of braking and accellerating (or keeping the revs up) during down-shifts - ie; aligns the revs to get a smoother gear change. It does away with trying to blip the throttle during down-change without taking your foot off the brake.
The foot is straddled across both pedals, but the brake cannot be too much higher than the accellerator to perform it properly.
If, as in a standard set-up 911, the floor mounted brake padel is much higher than the accellerator pedal, you're going to stand the car on its nose - be careful.
Richard must have changed his pedal settings? I can't heel-and-toe in my Carrera.
The foot is straddled across both pedals, but the brake cannot be too much higher than the accellerator to perform it properly.
If, as in a standard set-up 911, the floor mounted brake padel is much higher than the accellerator pedal, you're going to stand the car on its nose - be careful.
Richard must have changed his pedal settings? I can't heel-and-toe in my Carrera.
Guest
New member
Tony,
The brake, clutch pedal assembly is adjustable, in fact, the complete assbly can be removed as a sub assembly. Whilst the unit is out, replace all bushes ( plastic) with a bronze bush kit - makes a big differance.
Heel and toe when done properly should make a down-shift seem seamless. Having floor hinged pedals (ala VW & Porsche) makes it easy - so much for the "experts" ( oh- you mean Top Gear?), who prefer pendulum pedals (hang from dash) - Dr. F. Porsche knew a thing or two!
The brake, clutch pedal assembly is adjustable, in fact, the complete assbly can be removed as a sub assembly. Whilst the unit is out, replace all bushes ( plastic) with a bronze bush kit - makes a big differance.
Heel and toe when done properly should make a down-shift seem seamless. Having floor hinged pedals (ala VW & Porsche) makes it easy - so much for the "experts" ( oh- you mean Top Gear?), who prefer pendulum pedals (hang from dash) - Dr. F. Porsche knew a thing or two!
Guest
New member
steh
My car def is all leather like yours I can tell as the dash is scuffed in front of the steering wheel where ya nails or rings ect hit while turning and the doors and rear shelf are the same with a few give away scuffs also!. will try to get some pics small enough to post.
Paul
My car def is all leather like yours I can tell as the dash is scuffed in front of the steering wheel where ya nails or rings ect hit while turning and the doors and rear shelf are the same with a few give away scuffs also!. will try to get some pics small enough to post.
Paul
Guest
New member
And, of course, single seat racing cars have floor mounted pedals - I assumed that it was easier, when braking, to push the pedal forward and down, and not forward/up as in the pendulum ones.
It seems, though, that the floor mounted take up more room (space under the floor, for the pedal to go into ?), although modern pedal boxes assemblies sit on the floor.
When I asked if my pedals were adjustable (couldn't do heel/toe), I was told 'no'.
Guest
New member
My 915 box is less than healthy, unless I am stationary I cannot easily get into first and if i'm driving slowly and change from 3rd to 2nd I have trouble getting into the gate. However, it's fine when the engine speeds are higher and changes are slower. If I try and change quickly all kinds of horrible noises follow! I know a rebuild may be due but is the fast change thing normal??? Would a short-shift help? I have already changed the oil but it didn't really make a difference.
Guest
New member
The brake pedal should not be much higher than the accelerator. If you flip the plastic accel pedal off, you can adjust the linkage under the pedal with two spanners. Mine is about as long as it can be but that was to ensure full throttle not to make heel and toe easier. I have only ever driven one 911 that I found difficult to heel and toe which had a very high brake and low accel pedal - sounds like yours.
I love heel and toe downchanges. It is essential for advanced track driving in order to ensure smooth downchanges under braking but I love the smoothness in general driving as well. Its even better when newby passengers say stuff like "wow, your car revs up when you change gears" and you can reply "Yeah, ain't it cool". Those in the know will immediately recognise the skill and think "Ahhh, this guy knows what he is doing".
One tip for people who want to practice, is to just try to blip the revs on a downchange *without* braking. Get used to matching the revs on the downchange for a couple of weeks of driving and you are halfway there. Next, while stationary and in neutral try to press the brake with the ball of your foot and then roll the heel/outside of your foot over on to the accelerator and give that a press while maintaining even pressure on the brake. Try blipping the throttle to 3-4,000rpm as this is close to the pressure you will need for a typical downchange in order to match the revs to the lower gear. Next try it on the road. To start with, you will not match the revs exactly, but practise makes perfect. Just take it slow and ensure that whatever you do with the revs you still remember to steer and get all the braking done in good time [&:]
When I taught myself, I avoided any passengers for a while and stuck to lightly trafficked roads. I am surprised even now that as an 18 year old I managed to be so prudent.
HTH
Richard
Guest
New member
John,
If you can manage to crawl into the area in front of the pedals, once you pull the plywood board out of the way. Once you undo the clutch cable and the brake pedal linkage, plus the two (I think) bolts through the front body (access via front belly pan). Then you can remove the complete assembly.
I replaced all the plastic bushes in mine with bronze (kit - cheap), worth it.
My brake and accel pedals are in perfect alignment for double de clutching.[]
If you can manage to crawl into the area in front of the pedals, once you pull the plywood board out of the way. Once you undo the clutch cable and the brake pedal linkage, plus the two (I think) bolts through the front body (access via front belly pan). Then you can remove the complete assembly.
I replaced all the plastic bushes in mine with bronze (kit - cheap), worth it.
My brake and accel pedals are in perfect alignment for double de clutching.[
]
steh
New member
hi paul, thanks for the reply. i also have a couple of scuff's in the same place as you do.i can't understand why the FULL leather was not more popular. may have been an very expensive option. mine is 20 years old now and when you get in you can just smell the leather as if it was new.
hope to see some phtos soon
steve
hope to see some phtos soon
steve
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