Ideal brake set-up?
- Thread starter bennyboy
- Start date
Hilux
New member
I`ve always been fascinated with corner weighting.
I`m thinking of getting it done on the Mk1 as its so light and stiff but cannot always understand it unless its in a car with an agreed driver position and a foam baffled centre tank so have never gone for it on the basis (I believe) that you have your car set up for one (or two) persons and either a full tank or near empty tank or something in between which has no foam baffle and then anytime the number of people or the amount of fuel changes or the fuel sloshes from side to side in a corner (corner weighting is carried out static) then it must undo all that hard work and expensive time sitting on scales?.........doesnt it?
So.........................in a nutshell is it worth it? Did you notice any difference?
I`m thinking of getting it done on the Mk1 as its so light and stiff but cannot always understand it unless its in a car with an agreed driver position and a foam baffled centre tank so have never gone for it on the basis (I believe) that you have your car set up for one (or two) persons and either a full tank or near empty tank or something in between which has no foam baffle and then anytime the number of people or the amount of fuel changes or the fuel sloshes from side to side in a corner (corner weighting is carried out static) then it must undo all that hard work and expensive time sitting on scales?.........doesnt it?
So.........................in a nutshell is it worth it? Did you notice any difference?
appletonn
New member
Good question but difficult to say as I think it was the geometry session with the new alignments that really made the difference - I guess the corner weighting can't hinder it and should ensure that the car responds equally to left or r/h turns?
Not an expert on this but have also been interested in the effects. I didn't actually ask for it to be done, but Danny did it as part of the set up process.
Just to add to the mix and not in any order.
1. S/Steel braideds
2. SRF
3. PFC (worth every cent, er pence, er Euro)
4. Big Reds/Blacks
5. Ducting to disks via tubing
6. Slotted rotors over drilled if possible (the solids can definitely create a build up of gas between pad and rotor = spongyness)
7. 928 5/33 proportioning valve (to send a bit more bias to the rears)
8. KWs (they're not just there to help you turn corners)
9. R spec rubber at least (they're not just there to help you turn corners [
])
1. S/Steel braideds
2. SRF
3. PFC (worth every cent, er pence, er Euro)
4. Big Reds/Blacks
5. Ducting to disks via tubing
6. Slotted rotors over drilled if possible (the solids can definitely create a build up of gas between pad and rotor = spongyness)
7. 928 5/33 proportioning valve (to send a bit more bias to the rears)
8. KWs (they're not just there to help you turn corners)
9. R spec rubber at least (they're not just there to help you turn corners [
])
edh
New member
Tyres make a huge difference - I remember the first time I used slicks [][] - I'm not sure whether BB's are really necessary though - I haven't tried them, but the performance with the MB's, + PF 97 + PZero C (R-spec) was good enough for me, with no overheating problems. This was at Donington, which is pretty hard on brakes. Maybe when you get to 400 hp it's a different matter []
I might investigate the bias valve - my rear pads hardly wear at all. Did the later (250) cars get fitted with a different bias valve to the earlier cars?
][] - I'm not sure whether BB's are really necessary though - I haven't tried them, but the performance with the MB's, + PF 97 + PZero C (R-spec) was good enough for me, with no overheating problems. This was at Donington, which is pretty hard on brakes. Maybe when you get to 400 hp it's a different matter []I might investigate the bias valve - my rear pads hardly wear at all. Did the later (250) cars get fitted with a different bias valve to the earlier cars?
Diver944
Active member
There is a bolt just inside the ducting in the wheel arch and two bolts on the shock absorber where the standard deflector is mounted. I simply used these three bolts to attach either end of the hose and then ran the hose around the inside bottom edge of the wheel arch liner (secured in place with cable ties). I sealed up the excess air gap between the hose and the ducting using gaffa tape.
This setup directs air straight into the centre of the brake disk and as a simple test a hair dryer held a foot in front of the bumper will easily blow out a candle held by the brake disk. I had this setup for years using standard 250 Turbo disks, pads and brake fluid with no trace ever of any problem or fade even with my 3.2L engine. The week after I removed them for replacement due to fraying was when I had my brake fade and resultant accident [8|]
This setup directs air straight into the centre of the brake disk and as a simple test a hair dryer held a foot in front of the bumper will easily blow out a candle held by the brake disk. I had this setup for years using standard 250 Turbo disks, pads and brake fluid with no trace ever of any problem or fade even with my 3.2L engine. The week after I removed them for replacement due to fraying was when I had my brake fade and resultant accident [8|]
Marcussuper7
New member
Does any one have any recomendations where to source these uprated braking components from? (ie Discs, pads, hoses fluid)
I have a 944 S which I am preparing for a trip to the Nurburgring. I dont want to get all the way there and be let down by brake fade.
I need to replace all the brakes as they are screwed.
I have a 944 S which I am preparing for a trip to the Nurburgring. I dont want to get all the way there and be let down by brake fade.
I need to replace all the brakes as they are screwed.
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
I use Porterfield R4-S pads and can very highly recommend them. They have amazing bite, work rather well from cold and never fade (the downsides are they're dusty and noisy, but who cares about that []). I believe they're very close to the Performance Friction pads in both design and performance.
The last batch I bought was a couple of years ago (for 250T calipers) and they cost $109 for the fronts and $89 for the rears. Of course you have postage, vat and duty on top plus a lousy exchange rate to contend with, but I still think they're great value especially if you can buy a few sets at a time.
I get them from http://www.ebsracing.com/ (I don't think they have them listed on their site) and they have been excellent to deal with everytime.
]). I believe they're very close to the Performance Friction pads in both design and performance. The last batch I bought was a couple of years ago (for 250T calipers) and they cost $109 for the fronts and $89 for the rears. Of course you have postage, vat and duty on top plus a lousy exchange rate to contend with, but I still think they're great value especially if you can buy a few sets at a time.
I get them from http://www.ebsracing.com/ (I don't think they have them listed on their site) and they have been excellent to deal with everytime.
Unless you change the struts, or fit radial mounts (conversion blocks) you are limited what you can do.
Good fluid and pads may well be enough if you drive considerately. If you insist on being the last of the late brakers, or have learnt bad habits as I have, you may want more.
You could fit 220 Turbo disks and four pot callipers ( aka Small Blacks). IIRC these should be a straight swap. They are 4 piston callipers so should work better than your floating piston. The discs are also vented and you should have a better choice of quality pads. You can still overheat these if you try hard enough.
As a mostly road/ occasional trackday pad I like EBC yellows - I admit I haven't tried Porterfields but the dust and the price put me off. I do have big blacks though.
If I was racing or had 220 calipers I would probably go Porterfields.
I quite liked EBC greens as a road pad but hated reds though I understand the greens have changed formula again since I used them.
Tony
If I was racing or had 220 calipers I would probably go Porterfields.
I quite liked EBC greens as a road pad but hated reds though I understand the greens have changed formula again since I used them.
Tony
edh
New member
You can also buy a kit from Rennbay that will fit under 15's (do you still have 15's on the S?) - http://www.rennbay.com/944-big-brake-kit-p-83.html
I'd just go with teh std calipers, plain Sebro disks from Bert - http://www.partsforporsche.co.uk/ , some reasonable pads (Mintex 1155, if you can get them in this pattern, are much cheaper than PF - not as good, but good enough)
And fit some ducting to get extra cooling to the centres of the discs - very cheap to do & a huge benefit.
Brake fluid - how about Opie Oils?
btw - how are you dealing with insurance cover? (I know this is a can of worms, but am interested in how many people are actually risking the 'ring without insurance - so many policies exclude it these days.)
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