Immobiliser/starter problem
- Thread starter ian harvey
- Start date
Gents
If the starter is playing up the symptoms are normally (1) the starter gear doesn't engages, so when you try to start the car there is no noise or (2) the gear engages but not with the flywheel thus makes a spinning/whizzing noise but does nothing else. These issues can be easily resolved by having the starter removed and serviced (it dries out over time due to the heat its exposed to from its location above the gearbox).
A Toad imobiliser is my favourite but it does drain the battery, 2 - 4 weeks is the norm for the battery to lose its charge. The CTEK charging device is good but be careful where you connect it. On the battery is fine but via the cigar lighter can be dodgy (the contact is not great and unless perfect the CTEK device will also flatten the battery!!).
Good luck.
Damen
If the starter is playing up the symptoms are normally (1) the starter gear doesn't engages, so when you try to start the car there is no noise or (2) the gear engages but not with the flywheel thus makes a spinning/whizzing noise but does nothing else. These issues can be easily resolved by having the starter removed and serviced (it dries out over time due to the heat its exposed to from its location above the gearbox).
A Toad imobiliser is my favourite but it does drain the battery, 2 - 4 weeks is the norm for the battery to lose its charge. The CTEK charging device is good but be careful where you connect it. On the battery is fine but via the cigar lighter can be dodgy (the contact is not great and unless perfect the CTEK device will also flatten the battery!!).
Good luck.
Damen
Isolator off used to mean battery would last months, Damen's comment relate to the 'Toad' draining the battery quite quickly so a battery conditioner is probably a good idea especially as I have another (long term) problem where a secondary heater fan continues to spin and drains the battery after a couple of days if I forget to remove the fuse. A solution has been dreamed up (ironically by the toad guy) switching the heater via a relay that only comes on with the ignition.
Ian
Ian
Steve Brookes
Moderator
Which 'secondary heater fan' stays on?
964RS_DAB
New member
Ian
[/quote]
Ian I had an identical problem with my heater fan. I overcame the issue by simply fitting an in-line flick switch under the dashboard which allows me to fully shut down the fan. Very cheap and simple solution [
]. I also keep the battery connected to a trickle charger. Last winter my car stood for about 4-5 months and started first time in the Spring []David/Steve
I have never fully understood which motor it is but it can, just, be heard. I, too, tried the switch and it works for me to an extent, the problem I have found, twice, is that the switch itself eventually burns out. I keep my eye out for a heavier duty switch but have yet to find one. All of which seems to make the battery monitor a sensible option. Thanks for your help.
Ian
I have never fully understood which motor it is but it can, just, be heard. I, too, tried the switch and it works for me to an extent, the problem I have found, twice, is that the switch itself eventually burns out. I keep my eye out for a heavier duty switch but have yet to find one. All of which seems to make the battery monitor a sensible option. Thanks for your help.
Ian
Steve Brookes
Moderator
Ian, if it's the rear blower that continues to run with the ignition off it usually means that the NTC sensor in the plenum next to the blower is shot and needs replacing. If it's one of the fans at the front that keeps running it usually means that the final stage amplifier under the front scuttle panel in the boot needs replacing.
The relay idea is interesting because a relay can be used to stop a current drain that occurs when people replace the rear blower with a bypass pipe to save weight (yet still provide a little bit of heat). A bit off topic I know but for those interested, this is what needs to be done when doing that mod (go to half way down page 3):
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/964-forum/648528-aussie-964c2-maintenance-diary-pic-heavy.html
The relay idea is interesting because a relay can be used to stop a current drain that occurs when people replace the rear blower with a bypass pipe to save weight (yet still provide a little bit of heat). A bit off topic I know but for those interested, this is what needs to be done when doing that mod (go to half way down page 3):
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/964-forum/648528-aussie-964c2-maintenance-diary-pic-heavy.html
Steve
Wow, that's amazing knowledge, i'm impressed even if i didn't understand half of it. Even so, I know the on/off switch works even if i do need a higher spec switch, but do you think the relay option is a sound idea?
Got your note on Spa btw and it does sound great and not too expensive but I am very reluctent to commit to anything much at the moment, life supplying the building trade is very precarious. My main hobby, even outweighing my love of motorsport is cycling and the Ardennes region around Spa is the absolute heartland of cycle racing, especially in Spring and I can confirm that the weather around Spa has been great at Springtime recently. I'm supposed to be going to Classic LM if I am able so that remains my main aim for trips away next year.That and maybe another week pedalling around Majorca.
Ian
Wow, that's amazing knowledge, i'm impressed even if i didn't understand half of it. Even so, I know the on/off switch works even if i do need a higher spec switch, but do you think the relay option is a sound idea?
Got your note on Spa btw and it does sound great and not too expensive but I am very reluctent to commit to anything much at the moment, life supplying the building trade is very precarious. My main hobby, even outweighing my love of motorsport is cycling and the Ardennes region around Spa is the absolute heartland of cycle racing, especially in Spring and I can confirm that the weather around Spa has been great at Springtime recently. I'm supposed to be going to Classic LM if I am able so that remains my main aim for trips away next year.That and maybe another week pedalling around Majorca.
Ian
Steve Brookes
Moderator
I can't say for sure if it is a sound idea because I've not had the need to do it myself (I have the standard rear blower set up). The relay mod in that thread is to fix the issue of putting a heater bypass pipe in place of the blower. This leads to the cabin fans not working. While you can still get passive heat to the front from the main engine cooling fan, you lose the demisting ability of the cabin fans. This can be got round by putting jumper wires in place of the standard blower relay but leads to a heavy battery drain. The relay mod in the Rennlist article overcomes this by using the ignition circuit to remove the drain when the ignition is off.
As I said, this is all a bit off topic regarding your own problem. If you've still got the standard 964RS blower set up, I would look at the other angles I mentioned first. At the moment I'm not sure if your constantly running fan is the rear blower or a cabin fan? HVAC problems on 964s are definitely an Achilles heel.
Steve
Thanks for that, I will consider my options
Ian
Thanks for that, I will consider my options
Ian
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
