It lives Egor it LIVES !!!!

[ChrisW]

Irrespective of power, ARP bolts are supposed to offer a 500rpm+ insurance factor over the normal over-rev max ---

Anybody can miss a gear, so a tremendous benefit in any engine, --- but with the new springs and titanium followers, you could lift the rev limit if you wished ?

My engine has all these things and the Motec ECU --- but delivers it's max torque at 4,800 rpm and max power at a fraction over 6000rpm.

I guess this is down to standard cams ...

 

[h_____]

The only non-original parts to go back in my engine were the titanium followers and uprates springs (I forget spec exactly), As Chris says done purely to "insure" against high revs.

How do the ARP bolts help in rev limit? Is it just the avoidance of stretching?

 

[Laurence Gibbs]

Been on hols so apologies for delay in responding. As Chris and H say , i used the rod bolts and titainium retainers as insurance. The last dyno plot i have of the car was several years ago at JZ machtech's dyno day. The car made stock 260 best from two pulls on the dyno. For me anything over the stock figures is a bonus. Though obviously i would hope a nicely sealed engine should make a few extra. My previous red RS went well after i did the top end on that but it never went on the dyno. Would be nice at some point.
For more info on Vapour blasting get in touch with Nick at Redtek(or use your favourite search engine). It's a water vapour and media type of cleaning method and is what Nick uses. Given that he rebuilds (and is well known for) his early 911 engine rebuilds i guess he finds it an agreeable method.The heads were balsted as well as far as i recall, The barrels and piston's were also cleaned and checked by Nick (i dont posess gauges good enough for that) Can't recall which method was used. The case i cleaned manually, very carefully. I also cleaned the piston squirters with a solvent and found they all worked fine.
Running in produces a conundrum for me. The car is out of MOT so not sure what i am going to do. Don't know what people with track only cars do in this regard.
Early days the engine runs , idles and has good oil pressure a lot of running in to do before i breath a sigh of relief. It shouldn't have taken so long but a lot of other things got in the way . It is a huge undertaking doing the whole lot and there are a lot more things you can do that i didn't touch on as i had a basically sound engine before I started. Tooling is tricky for instance, I found a hole saw arbour to be the right size thread to use as a puller for the front pulley. You won't get it off without either the porsche tool or something fabbed up yourself ! It's torqued up to something like 210nm as well when you come to put it back on !

 

[h_____]

track cars tend to be run in quickly if at all. For modern engines, often they arent at all. Otherwise, you do a couple of runs at 3/4 revs then swap oil and go for it. However they perhaps dont have the longevity that you hope for. I definitely stuck to a reduced rpm limit for 1000 miles after I had mine done, just out of caution and the because the build said so.

If you take it straight to track, I'd do a couple of gentle sessions as a min. first.

thanks for the other info - good to know.