Jacking up a 944 turbo

[van883]

Silly question

but if I want to jack up the front of the car using a trolley jack-where should I locate it and then where is a safe strong place for axle stands?

thanks

Van

 

[sulzeruk]

Don't use your jacking points as your floor will probably collapse. Use the underside of the castor mount or the chassis stiffener that runs along the length of the car. Use a bit of 2 x 1 wood to spread the load.
Alasdair

 

[robwright]

Only ever use the centre jacking point as you can distort your floorpan. Al I don't see the problem with using the front and rear jacking points I use them all the time although youur suggestions will be just as good. After if a workshop was putting it in the air with a four point lift then they would use those.

 

[George Elliott]

What Al said, if you use the front body location inboard of the sill, you may distort it and the throttle will be affected. (on the drivers side)
The 4 poster will spread the load to 4 points and therefore avoid the excessive load on one corner (caused when you lift the car too high with a trolley jack)
I use the 2x1 under the chassis rail, but you may need a block to drive onto to get clearance depending on your trolley jack.
Good luck
George
944t

 

[robwright]

I never do and always advise never to jack from the corner points only ever from the centre of the sill with the triangle above it. As for axle stands if there are three other points of contact with the floor then any load on the corner post wouldn't be excessive.

 

[sawood12]

The front jacking points are not jacking points. They are the location points that are used for the bare shell on the production line lifts. The four-point lift points on the front are inboard of these points. The rear points are the square preteritions in front of the rear wheel arch.

I always used the central jacking point then got the axel stand in either on the castor mount or the logitudinal beam that runs under the car with a nice sturdy bit of wood between the jack and the underbody.

 

[George Elliott]

they are a pain to lift to any height, the various engine covers, plastic skirts, suspension arms are all fragile and insecure.

 

[Fat Albert]

I have to use the supplied jack on the rear jacking point to lift the car high enough to get the trolley jack under the central jacking point!
I then put the axle stands under the rear of the front suspension mounts when working on the front

 

[sawood12]

I had a couple of blocks of wood a couple of inches thick I would drive one side of the car onto so I could get my trolley jack under.

 

[Frenchy]

Got me one of those fancy alloy Clarkes low height trolley jacks, available from Machinemart pops straight under, i use the central jackpoint as indicated by the sill marker.

 

[JamesBall]

ORIGINAL: Frenchy

Got me one of those fancy alloy Clarkes low height trolley jacks, available from Machinemart pops straight under, i use the central jackpoint as indicated by the sill marker.

Frenchy - this one? http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-2-ton-low-profile-trolley-jack-ctj2lp

 

[DavidL]

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/ctj1250a-11-4-tonne-aluminium-trolley-jack

one of these I believe.

 

[sawood12]

Costco do ones for about £80 - 3 ton, low profile and the rubberised domed pad.

 

[Frenchy]

Thats the kiddie DaveL, mine was circa £70 via e bay..........works a treat my 20 year old trolley jack was showing signs of weeping around the seals...........time to get shot, i feel quite attatched to my fingers and legs !

 

[DavidL]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

Costco do ones for about £80 - 3 ton, low profile and the rubberised domed pad.

I want one of these but costco only seem to have the smaller ones. Have you seen them recently?

 

[sawood12]

Last time I saw them was about two or three months ago, but they do seem to come in stock and go out quite often as they are not there everytime I visit. They are pretty much overkill as they are quite a large jack and the type where to lower you twist the handle rather than removing it and opening a valve, but like alot of gear in Costco it is pretty good quality.

 

[MGBV8]

I always use the centre jack point on our two cars. If you're worried about your sills / floors crumbling then the car shouldn't be on the road anyway!

My trolley jack is made by king jack and has a very low saddle hight. Even so, I still have to drive the lowered '85 model onto a couple of piece of wood to get the saddle under the car.
They arent the most friendly of classics to work on - lets be honest.

 

[DavidL]

I make life difficult for myself by having a Caterham and a range rover so I need a heavy duty jack that goes very low!
That Arcan one seemed ideal if I can find one.

 

[Hilux]

ORIGINAL: MGBV8

I always use the centre jack point on our two cars. If you're worried about your sills / floors crumbling then the car shouldn't be on the road anyway!

My trolley jack is made by king jack and has a very low saddle hight. Even so, I still have to drive the lowered '85 model onto a couple of piece of wood to get the saddle under the car.
They arent the most friendly of classics to work on - lets be honest.

Try it when its lowered and with turbo side skirts [&:]

 

[George Elliott]

Paul, at risk of going off topic, If lowered - clean sheet spec - what would you suggest for components:

Dampers
Springs
ARB's
Bushes

and settings:

Ride height below std
Camber
Toe

for general road use, not too skittish on B Roads / tarmac patches / repairs, 50% wet conditions, 20% motorway, not track use and not track tyres, 16" forged rims, LSD, comfortable for 100 mile trips, good traction @ 350bhp.

I realise there are many opinions on this subject, but I remember your car sat really nicely and would appreciate your comments

thanks
George
944T