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KW-V3 Setup for track?

it's on my project thread I don't have the info to hand.

the oversteer was only on very fast lefthanders ( I'm faster on lefthanders )- craner curves, pouhon,

mid corner the back end gets unstable but only when really trying hard - trying to go completely flat from redgate through craner for example. we reckon it's roll oversteer as other corners the car would tend to understeer if anything. ive also stuck on more negative camber now. We'll see how it works at Bedford.
 
Ed the understeer must be due to your lack of turbo!![:)]

Cheers for all the help. Looking forward to getting car back on the road. Spent a fair bit of money getting bits for it including kw's, big red calipers, strut brace, large oil cooler from an F1 car, top end rebuild, fibreglass wings and vented badge panel, Lindsey stage 1 inter cooler, new doors with spa design mirrors, recaro profi seats. Next on the list will possibly be a fibreglass bonnet, rogue maf kit, garrett gt30 hybrid. Really wanting to get about 350 bhp.
 
Hi,
Yes I sold the gaz shocks. acquired this set of KWs and was curious to see what they are like in comparison to gaz shocks.
 
I saw the ad for them on PH, but I wasnt sure what to do. Not a bad price at all but GAZ dampers are something thats better bought new, I think, because they dont seem to last very well.
 
Im also setting up my KW's for track. Spoke to them on the phone and they said they were developed to be used with the factory geo. My car is lowered though so I'm not sure where that leaves me.

Tom
 
I too have spoken to them, they have recommended running their factory settings for Bedford and then giving them some feedback afterwards, they will then help with setup adjustments for future visits. Cant complain about that. I'm still waiting to hear back from Chris Franklin re his suggestions for Bedford.


Edd
 
Be careful with roll oversteer due to the shocks, I have suffered from this when my front left shock was knackered. It made the car a right handful in some corners as the springs try to keep the car balanced but sudden movements caused by bumps etc. chuck it off and can lead to some big oppo moments. I used to have roll oversteer from springs as when we first built my car I specced front spring rates that were far too soft. Much easier to catch that form of roll oversteer than soft shocks as its predictable. Kills any chance of quick laps though as you just can't carry speed into the corners, trail brake etc. and all that stuff.
 
interesting Neil - sounds like my diagnosis was right. kevin @ emc told me that kw springs were too soft for the track.

I don't want to worry anyone with kw's - it's really only apparent in my car when you are pushing very hard. the solutions make the car less road friendly.

Tom you should be ok with a lowered car (mine is). it seems to be a bit of a lottery whether you need to reindex or not though ( mine was ok).
 

ORIGINAL: u63af

Ed the understeer must be due to your lack of turbo!![:)]

Cheers for all the help. Looking forward to getting car back on the road. Spent a fair bit of money getting bits for it including kw's, big red calipers, strut brace, large oil cooler from an F1 car, top end rebuild, fibreglass wings and vented badge panel, Lindsey stage 1 inter cooler, new doors with spa design mirrors, recaro profi seats. Next on the list will possibly be a fibreglass bonnet, rogue maf kit, garrett gt30 hybrid. Really wanting to get about 350 bhp.
Click to expand...

sounds brilliant - but also reminds my why an s2 is better for me.....there's so much temptation to modify the turbo, and it all comes at a price....more power needs more cooling, needs better components etc..
 
My first thought would be all new bushes at the rear, particularly the tricky ones. Then Id look at lowering the rear a little. When you remove weight from a 944 they can easily get too light at the rear too.
 
ed I'm sure bigger arb's would have an effect - the springs were a lot cheaper though.

It's quite marginal - I have only provoked it a few times. it may not be an issue for you at all.

Simon I wondered about bushes - I have asked ph and promax to check them over last year & they were both happy. It will be a good idea to drop & refresh the back axle at some point - but I know it will be expensive.
 
Ed, I would have thought that the oversteer is from the rear being harder than the front. This is what my car had and I raised the front a bit to put more weight over the rear, stiffened up front and softened rear. I think if you we're changing arbs then you would need to stiffen front aswell. The early turbos had 18mm rear arbs which were later replaced with 16mm ones due to the early cars being more prone to oversteer.
 
Definitely. You have a dilemma in that you need a fair amount of rebound on the rear (in terms of actual damper force) to keep the car nicely balanced and controlled when on getting on the right pedal. Its a bit of a compromise but I think its much better to stiffen up the front instead in this scenario.

The movement in the rear bushes is a touch disconcerting but it seems to kill a lot of understeer. Its most noticeable in that phase after turn in where your transitioning from the brake to throttle, the car feels a bit loose for a fraction of a second.

I went back to a completely stock rear end on my car by taking the complete banana arms/torsion bars/carrier assembly from another car. The movement was disconcerting compared to before but the car is vastly quicker through the corners. Most importantly I didn't get any feeling the rear end was binding up like it used to sometimes (I frequently got hops from the rear end mid corner).
 
Damn I can't wait for this track day :D. I hope there is going to be plenty of chatting time as well as track time!
 
Mine is set up as follows by CG:

Front:
Bump --> 6 Clicks from full stiff
Rebound --> 4 Clicks from full stiff

Rear:
Bump --> 3 Clicks from full stiff
Rebound --> 7 Clicks from full stiff

Probably not everyone's preference (and set up this way at my request) but should be fun on the track. Will most likely change to something more comfortable after 25th. After all, what's the point of having adjustable options and not using them?

 
Looks good for the track, I'm going to put mine back to factory for Bedford, it appears to be a good starting point. After that I'm going to set rear rebound permanently at 1.75 turns and then just adjust everything else to suit road or track. For a road car a bit more compliance is definitely welcomed.


Edd
 
Spent an afternoon at Andy's (thanks Andy) putting the kw back to factory settings, have to say setting the torsion bar to lowest position has certainly free'd up the rear end somewhat, seems much more compliant now compared to how it was initially set-up last year. I take what I said back about the stock settings being hard for uk roads. Advise to others with kw fitted would be to make sure they are setup properly, and perhaps double check yourself.


Edd
 
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