Little niggly things that you never get around to fixing
- Thread starter poprock
- Start date
Really?ORIGINAL: edh
They only work on Turbos []
Several turbo owners on here have asked how to make them work ... I fear you are wrong!
(An alternative tack. If I make my light work, will it make my car a Turbo? I really hope not ... would be awful to make such a backward step! [
] )Oli.
Fat Albert
New member
Managed to get some time to play this weekend, so:
But now need to add demister to list......
ORIGINAL: Fat Albert
Squeak from rear somewhere
headlining behind sunroof hangs down slightly
heater fan only works on number 4 (mentioned on another thread!) FIXED!!!
Clock light doesn't
I broke the up/down electric mirror adjustment on the driver's door mirror, now springs up at random... FIXED!!!
Swapped the original gear lever back in but don't have the circlip, so gear lever can come off in my hand if I get over-excited[
trim surrounding driver's window switches is a bit loose FIXED!!!
3 slight oil leaks
4 patches of rust on sills
When I get a job GOT!!!the rust and oil leaks will get some attention, but the rest is just 'Character'
But now need to add demister to list......
JamesO
New member
1. Sunroof squeek, goes away if you open it a touch.
2. Headlamp washers, hose is split in bumper just like my last 944
3. Rear hatch/sunroof fuse blows with total randomness when car is sat, a good way to learn not to keep spare fuses in the boot but in the fusebox instead.
All little foibles of a 20 year old car
2. Headlamp washers, hose is split in bumper just like my last 944
3. Rear hatch/sunroof fuse blows with total randomness when car is sat, a good way to learn not to keep spare fuses in the boot but in the fusebox instead.
All little foibles of a 20 year old car
ChasR
New member
I have a few like many. Here is the list:
Clock Bulb is blown
Passenger seat needs cleaning (I was scared of doing them as I didn't realise how pale Linen leather was meant to be).
Boot will not open unless you turn the key and lift the boot at the same time (any ideas?)
Mechanical problems are low except:
Mid box is rattling slightly (Still on the original mid section).
Slightly more concerning problem is this one.
Temperature is acting funny. Fans cut in at 98 degrees according to the gauge. But now I have the heater working again it's doing funny things with the temp. If set to 27, it will blow out warm air and then I'll hear the vacuum pump click. Colder air comes out and then the gauge goes from being just over 80 degrees to being 90-92 degrees. Vac. Pump clicks again and air gets warmer and the gauge falls again. This is at motorway speeds. I suspect I may need a new rad and that the old one may have seen its share of flies and crap over the years. However, I did put a new theromstat into the new engine as the old one IMO had gone weak in the old engine (the car hardly ever went above 80 degrees and whilst it would move up and down with the heater valve being opened it still stayed at around the first white line pretty much (i.e go from slightly below the line onto the line). In town it would go up to the mid 90s before the fans kicked in. I guess the other possibility is that the temp sensor on the new engine is not too hot.
I can say from when the heater was stuck on full heat last week (vacuum leak), the heater works very well!
Clock Bulb is blown
Passenger seat needs cleaning (I was scared of doing them as I didn't realise how pale Linen leather was meant to be).
Boot will not open unless you turn the key and lift the boot at the same time (any ideas?)
Mechanical problems are low except:
Mid box is rattling slightly (Still on the original mid section).
Slightly more concerning problem is this one.
Temperature is acting funny. Fans cut in at 98 degrees according to the gauge. But now I have the heater working again it's doing funny things with the temp. If set to 27, it will blow out warm air and then I'll hear the vacuum pump click. Colder air comes out and then the gauge goes from being just over 80 degrees to being 90-92 degrees. Vac. Pump clicks again and air gets warmer and the gauge falls again. This is at motorway speeds. I suspect I may need a new rad and that the old one may have seen its share of flies and crap over the years. However, I did put a new theromstat into the new engine as the old one IMO had gone weak in the old engine (the car hardly ever went above 80 degrees and whilst it would move up and down with the heater valve being opened it still stayed at around the first white line pretty much (i.e go from slightly below the line onto the line). In town it would go up to the mid 90s before the fans kicked in. I guess the other possibility is that the temp sensor on the new engine is not too hot.
I can say from when the heater was stuck on full heat last week (vacuum leak), the heater works very well!
DavidL
Active member
I'm not convinced that all the hatch lids did open once the pins were released, even when the cars were new. The wording in the handbook is vague - something like "the hatch may open once the release is pressed or you can lift it"
I'm sure I had a conversation with someone who had new ones and they said that it was a bit random.
Neither of my cars have and I shall try to get the new one to with new and adjusted pins and a new hatch seal.
944 LIL
New member
I dont have enough time to list the wee things so I'll just do the big ones....
leaking sunroof - half way through fixing (so I have a large piece of damp proof course over the roof currently [])
rust patch under tailgate pin
leaking ATF (very messy, but my drive doesn't squeak)
things like indictators coming on when I switch on the windsreen wipers and two of the rear screen demister lines not working are simply put down as "character"
hey but I fixed my juddering brakes
and had my seats re-coloured (Oli !!) - before and after photos to follow at the weekend
we had 1st our anniversary a couple of weeks ago (LIL and me that is) and I'm still in love....
leaking sunroof - half way through fixing (so I have a large piece of damp proof course over the roof currently [
])rust patch under tailgate pin
leaking ATF (very messy, but my drive doesn't squeak)
things like indictators coming on when I switch on the windsreen wipers and two of the rear screen demister lines not working are simply put down as "character"
hey but I fixed my juddering brakes
and had my seats re-coloured (Oli !!) - before and after photos to follow at the weekend
we had 1st our anniversary a couple of weeks ago (LIL and me that is) and I'm still in love....
I took that to mean the hatch seal pushed the hatch up when the lock was released, then it was a gentle lift and the struts did the rest.
Mike
Mike
That fits with my experience. I don't know how old the hatch struts on my S2 are (I can't believe they are 20 years old but there is no mention of replacement in the car's very comprehensive history) but their performance varies hugely with the weather. On a very cold day, they won't quite hold the hatch fully open - it sinks down an inch or two if pushed all the way up. However, on a stinking hot day in the middle of summer they will push the hatch all the way up of their own accord if the boot is unlocked. (Which can be quite useful, especially as I have the boot opening wired up to the alarm fob, so you can remotely open the boot from a distance of 8 or so metres.)
Oli.
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