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Magnesium wheels

some here
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200179479138&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=010rer

No idea how good they are.

Charles
 
Hi Melv,

I have been offered some magnesium wheels. How do I tell if they
original ones or not? Do they have any special markings?

Thanks

Lawrence


Any answers pleez chasps???
 
ORIGINAL: Melv

Hi Melv,

I have been offered some magnesium wheels. How do I tell if they
original ones or not? Do they have any special markings?

Thanks

Lawrence


Any answers pleez chasps???

The photos show what looks like original paint as can be seen from the crisp lettering or, less likely, a set that have been totally stripped before painting. All the other sets I have seen have lettering that is less defined as a result of many layers of paint over the years.

I bought a spare set, at what I thought was a high price. Seems the prices are still going up further. I suggest you get a set now at all costs and never sell. In the event you ever sell the car (crazy!) the discerning buyer will demand a sets of mags or a reduction in price. Now I am considering putting both sets into storage and getting a set of Cup 1s or failing that some replicas for track days.

Photo credit to eBay.

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In my experience, even when the outside lettering is so faint it can hardly be read, the inside impression will be visible.

However, one day the only way to tell, will be to weigh them.

How much lighter are the mags than Ali's ?
 
is the finish on original magnesiums when restored correctly the same as these photos from ebay? i have just bought a set that have been fully refurbed, the guy tells me that from the factory they were only laquered? he said to paint them was 1.6 grams each so this is why they have the rough looking finish to save more weight???
 
From thefactory they were definitely painted in quite a bright silver.

See the brochure download on Martin's Database !

The finish of all that I have seen is mirror smooth --- though this can rapidly deteriorate to a kind of tin worm uneven-ness if there is any corrosion from within.

I was told that magnesium is porous and absorbs water --- this often being the reason why some crack in cold weather ? ! (rather than impact of some sort ?) This moisure can then feed corrosion from the inside out and those that are badly affected may ultimately turn to a white dust --- Magnesioum Oxide or Hydroxide ?

Those that are bad will not successfully refurbish -- hence their particular adversity to caustic dipping --- both the caustic and the water doing the damage. Have you ever seen caustic dipped pine ?

They should be kept as dry as possible, they should be kept weather tight with their paint finish, and when refurbished they should be bead blasted and then repainted.

All further information and / or corrections most welcome !
 
I have found all my Mags are porous to a certain extent and (very) prone to corrosion in contact with water - worse with salt (extent depends on the magnesium content and manufacturers coating) . Usually shows up as a white powder on the surface and best removed immediately- if necessary, I remove it from non-coated or unpainted surfaces with very fine "00000" grade steel wool. I always spray / wipe them clean them with WD 40 after a wet outing - acts as water repellant for any remaining water, and leaves protective finish for next time.

OBVIOUSLY, DONT spray your brake discs /pads - I remove the wheels, or if not, simply wipe over with a pre sprayed WD 40 cloth, but the inside surfaces are just as important. Wheel cleaners are notoriously corrosive too . . . .
 
For reference:

Cup 1's in aluminium weigh 10.6 kg and the magnesium ones weigh 8.5 kg for the fronts.

Aluminium rear wheels weigh in at 11.8 kg and their magnesium counterpart weigh in at 9.3 kg.

Standard Porsche GT3 RS 18" wheel weighs about 14kg.
 

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