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Mis-fire Problem

JColbourne

New member
Mis-fire problem[/b]

I would be grateful if anyone one would comment and/or give me any advice regarding the problem below. Apologies if it appears somewhat verbose, but I felt that if I missed anything out, the full picture would not be understood.

I have a 2003 996 C4S and current mileage is 117,907 (114,071 of those done by me as it's a business car). The car's been serviced at the relevant mileage intervals. No running problems have been encountered until the last 10 days.

On the first frosty morning of this autumn (November 1st) I started the car and immediately noticed unevenness in the engine performance on tick over. My immediate thought that this was something caused by the air temperature. The car vibrated as if there was an imbalance in the number of cylinders firing and the "Check" warning light came on as well as the "Drive to Workshop" message. On listening to the exhaust note there was a distinct "chugging" and intermittent "pop" from the nearside exhaust. The offside exhaust sounded normal. When the car was driven a short distance however, the performance did not seem to be impacted but the "lumpiness" and "chugging" persisted on tick over.

Upon underside engine inspection, a faulty coil pack was suspected. Subsequent diagnosis at an OPC indicated a coil pack problem. The condition of one coil pack was particularly poor and others were showing the signs of splitting, so all six were changed on November 3rd. It was noted at the time the work was done, that the nearside exhaust showed more emission deposits than the offside one i.e. it was blacker

All seemed well until the same symptoms, or be they not quite as severe as when they first appeared, recurred the day after the coil packs were changed. Again the performance under normal driving did not appear to be impacted. After some miles being covered the check warning light went out. This resulted in a second visit to another OPC on November 8th. The diagnosis this time indicated a problem on cylinder number 6. Consequently a different coil pack and spark plug for the cylinder were tried but the diagnosis persisted. The suggestion was that it could possibly be a broken valve spring but this I believe does not fit in with the problem being an intermittent one and only being noticeable on tick over. Whilst driving home, around 120 miles, the warning light and message did not appear but I did notice on a couple of occasions when I braked for a junction the "lumpiness" recurred but then cleared upon acceleration.

The charge from the alternator/battery connection has now been tested as part of the problem diagnosis and has been found to be below the power reading expected. It is thought that this could be having an effect on the Engine Management System and hence causing an engine malfunction e.g. causing a cylinder/cylinders to run too rich.

The other odd thing now is that the offside exhaust outlet is now blacker than the nearside one. Also when I put my hands close to the exhausts I get the impression that the offside one is running hotter than the nearside one. Photos are attached.

I'd be interested to find out if anyone has had similar experiences and would appreciate any replies that you are able to post.


Regards


John C
 
Richard, Black80XSA,

Thanks for the updates.

Richard, since the original warranty expired, I've put my car in the hands of Dave Griffiths Racing in Shrewsbury and had brilliant service and keen pricing. I didn't opt for the extended warranty as it only covers up to 125,000 miles so I understand as as you can see from the current mileage that would have come round far too quickly. I got the coil packs changed at Dave's.

I'll be taking the car back there tomorrow/Tuesday. He suggests testing the alternator on the bench and then getting it re-built if a fault is found.

The car's sounding really rough this morning from the offside exhaust so I'm tempted to get it transported back in on my breakdown cover.

Thanks again for your inputs. I'll complete the post when we've got a fix.

Best regards


John
 
John

I tried to send you an email earlier today, but got rejection messages from AOL. Maybe you could check your email address in your profile. I see that you are near Shrewsbury, so my offer wouldn't have been of use though.

Have you had any glitches with the alarm system? The alarm seems to be very sensitive to low voltage, and might indicate a battery or alternator fault.
 
Don't rule out a broken valve spring, I had similar intermitent problems with the CEL coming on a couple of times and then going off. Nothing particular could be found to be wrong and then suddenly one day out of the blue the engine sounded like a bag of spanners, died and wouldn't restart.

I suspected the dreaded total engine failure but it turned out to be a broken valve on one cylinder. Fortunately because I hadn't carried on trying to drive it there was no other damage done. Hartech replaceed all the springs and it was as good as new - that was at ~85,000 miles.

Good luck with it.
 
Richard,

No problems with the alarm system have been experienced so far. Do you want to send me the e-mail again, I'd be interested to see your suggestion anyway?

Rgds

John
 
ORIGINAL: JColbourne

Hi OGiii,

Did you get the mis-fire as well as the CEL? Car has been recovered to DGR this morning.

Rgds

John

I did, basically it was just a momentary misfire, almost like the judder you would get from running over some rough road - if that makes sense - then the light would come on but the engine would be running fine again.

I think this thread shows you that it could be one of a number of things, hopefully it won't be too serious and will be back on the road asap.
 
Latest update from DGR.

The alternator was taken off yesterday, tested and all is OK. The CAM covers have been off today. The valve springs are all OK, the cylinder bores are also OK (leak test done & passed).

I forgot to add that the coolant level had dropped quite a bit since it was topped up about 8 days ago. Asked them to check for evidence of cracks or gasket failure.

Could it be a corrupt ECU?

Would it be worth sending an e-mail of the problem to a Porsche GB expert? If so who?

Rgds


John
 
OGiii,

Thanks for the update. I'll keep the thread up to date.

On the positive side, it's given me a chance to have some fun in my wife's TT. Quite a different experience in a front-engined FWD, especially in the wet.

Rgds

John
 
Sump has been inspected today and a piece of "white" metal about a quarter of an inch long was found. DGR didn't recognise it's source but said it looked like metal that would form a shell or casing hence his term "white metal". The engine has never sounded like anything had broken or was not performing correctly, just the mis-fire. Any ideas what the piece of metal might be from?

I've asked if I can have a photo to post on the thread to give us some further clues.

I also tried to speak to a Technician at Porsche GB today but the Porsche Customer Assistance Advisor said I'd have to route information through an OPC as the Porsche Technicians are not customer-facing.

Looks like this one's going to run for while.

Rgds

John
 
Worst case scenario might be an intermediate shaft bearing failure - but if the engine was still running you might have caught it before it is beyond repair. But why it would cause a misfire I'm not sure.

Why don't you get them to remove the oil filter and check if there is any debris inside. If so, you would be best to get them to strip the engine.
 
Thanks Richard, I'll mention that to them. DGR wanted to avoid dropping the engine out and stripping down if they could but we may have no alternative.

Have you heard of an ECU becoming corrupted? I thought that might account for the mis-fire moving from one cylinder bank/exhaust to the other,

Rgds

John
 
John

I have never heard of it - but that's not to say it can't happen. I'd be more worried about finding bearing material in the sump.
 
Hi Richard,

DGR had thought about the intermediate shaft bearing as well but couldn't see that causing the mis-fire. They have drained the oil through a cloth and cut open the oil filter but found no further metal debris.

Rgds


John
 
Interesting. I've been looking at a nearly identical car with an near identical problem. '52 plate C4S. Slightly less milage.

Original intermittent loss of power / feels like it's down to 3/4 cylinders / engine sounds wrong / drive to workshop light coming on.

Snap on analyser showed misfire on cyl 6. Coil packs 6 & 5 were swapped and the fault code moved to 5. All 6 coil packs were replaced. Problem went away. Following day, car drove out of workshop, 20 feet later all problems reappeared. Intermittent missing at idle. Fault coded cleared.

Yesterday had a PST2 readout done - misfire on cyl6. Alarm fault code. Engine sluggish to turn over. The first suggestions were tensioner or solenoid. However, now wondering if it's a failing battery possibly causing the problem. Certainly it's cheaper to substitute the battery first to find out before embarking on major mechanical work. I'll keep you informed.
 
Rick,

Thanks for the reply. Certainly sounds similar. Did the problem move from one bank of cylinders to the other as in the case of mine? What about "rotten egg " smell from exhaust?

DGR did suspect an alternator/battery problem but both have checked out OK.

Good luck with yours.

Rgds

John
 
Rick,

Regarding alternator/battery, one of the guys at DGR said that the company that tested my alternator as OK, said he had experiences where an alternator had worked fine at cold and then when the engine had warmed up the alternator had started to break down and under perform.

They have done a leak test on my battery and assure me all is fine.

Rgds

John
 
Metal fragment photos

As mentioned earlier in the thread, there was a metal fragment found in the sump. If anyone can give any further suggestions as to what this might be I'd be grateful.

There will be another 2 photos after this.

Regards

John
 

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