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more silll talk, plenty of Q's

Rustproofing in the sills is essential with 944's. I have always been a big fan of Bilt Hamber products and their Dynax S50 is what is in the sills of my S2, but having read this:

http://www.vdubxs.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk.pdf

... I think I'll be investing in some Noxudol very soon. (Shame it sounds like a headache tablet, but if it does the job I'm happy!)



Oli.
 
I'm not familiar with dynax s50, if you can get any surface rust off and the area is completely dry and moist free then perhaps, I say perhaps as I'm always a little wary of making a decision on something when it's second hand, ie I'm not there looking at the job myself. A few things to bear in mind, once done you won't be able to see if there are any problem areas in the future so be sure of the product and two make sure all drain holes remain open. I would however is using POR15 as mentioned before be much happier in doing as you say, i haven't used this stuff yet but have done a little R&D on it since my son recommended it to me and it seems to be held in high regard in the restoration world and is far more than just a sealant.

Pete
 
I'd be giving that lower rear 3/4 panel a firm prod with a screwdriver if I were you. The stonechip looks to have a few shapes emerging beneath it and judging by the rust on the wheel arch flange/lip, I wouldn't be the least bit surpised if you had some swiss cheese in there.
 
thanks for posting that link Oli, quite interesting. think i'll stick to the dynax now i've bought it and joint third isn't bad, still gets you on the podium....
 
Nothing ugly looking there. However I would still strip and paint the sills. For all the difference it will make to the price as your going to do the bottom of the wings and the lower edge anyway. It will give you some serious peace of mind.
 
It's a matter of taste mate. I personally think they do nothing for the look of the car and they are long removed. Just having my sills done now and have even asked him to remove the centre jacking point and replace it with something with a lower pofile and not visible.
 
The trims do complete the line from the bottom edge of the front PU on the S2/turbos. Without them, it exaggerates the height between the wheels from a side-on view, plus shows the jacking point, as Rob points out.

But, to me, it's visuals over cost. I like a toast-rack on early 944s, as it covers the ugly wheel-well, but if it led to expensive corrosion I'd ditch it.

How often (honestly) do you take the trims off and clean underneath? Save yourself the bother!
 
I don't think its gone well....only i could cock it up.
sprayed my first can in yesterday, used the drain hole nearest the front and the large hole in the door thing where we stick our cameras down. It was peeing out the drain holes so thought it was going well. very messy by the way, but thats half the fun. thought id followed the instructions well, withdraw lance slowly, wiggle it about etc for good coverage (I'm still talking about my sills by the way). took some pics last night but it looks like its only really covered either end cos the middle looked just the same as before, ie light surface rust.
cracked open the second can this AM with a new plan.....sprayed it in all 4 drain holes, both sides, and then quickly bunged up the holes with pieces of sponge. overall i reckon at least half a can out of the 2 ended up on the towels underneath, maybe more.
oh well, its done now, took me a year to get round to it and loads of Q's on here (think i've raised the subject 3 times so thanks for all the help)

onwards and upwards, Craig.
 
Craig,

If you are using the BH product then you'll have seen it's a dark brown colour .... a kind of rusty brown shade. Which means that if you spray it on top of rust and don't get a good view of it (i.e. with a small hand-held digi camera and not much light) then it's quite possible you won't see the stuff on top of the rust, but that doesn't mean it's not there and not doing a good job.

Well done for putting more on though. I guess that it's much better to put too much on than too little.


Oli.
 
cheers oli, i do like a bit of reassurance...hadn't thought of that but now you say it, it makes sense...roll on the weekend.
 
As a consequence of this thread, I had a play with a half-empty can of Dynax over the weekend. I had stripped the door cards off my S2 to fit some new central locking parts (the ones that always fail) and I thought I'd put some more Dynax in to prevent rusting while I was there.

Using the standard aerosol spray cap doesn't appear to produce much flow of product at all; it produced a lot of mist and spray but nothing too substantial. However closer examination showed that the mist was fine droplets of the product, not of the propellant, and it settled in a gentle coating on everything. The difficulty was that the mist was so fine it blew around and quite a lot of it blew away.

I swapped it for the application lance with the brass nozzle in the end (which I had to clean with compressed air and white spirit as it had blocked from sitting in my workshop for a couple of years!) This produced very different results; a thick coating of product in just about every direction, and the difference was quite noticeable. Pulling the lance along the seam at the bottom of the doors had the stuff flowing everywhere, thickly, and it trickled into all the nooks and crannies (and quite a lot of other places as well, including a solid jet across the carpet in the driver's footwell [:mad:]). On that basis Craig, if you did something similar with the lance in your sills then I'd suggest that you probably got oodles of the stuff exactly where it should be. I can understand the problem with not being able to see it though; it is a mid-brown colour and very hard to see against a dark background until you get used to what you are looking at. It foxed me until I stuck my finger into a puddle of the stuff and realised what I was meant to be looking for.

(An aside, but I can also testify that it is tricky stuff to remove. A good scrub with acetone eventually removed it from the carpet but the splashes on clothing have proved remarkably resistant to the powers of a hot wash with washing powder. That which dribbled down the bodywork eventually succumbed to warm water, a sponge and some Bilt Hamber car wash but it I fear it won't come off the sponge.)


Oli.
 
Just as well. If you could wash it off with water it would not work at its intended purpose.

I have all this to do next weekend or the weekend after. Sorta kinda looking forward to it. Sorta kinda not.
 
It seemed the right weather today and this thread inspired me to pull my finger out:

161DB3A5-3A1F-4393-9605-46B38C6C0BA6.jpg


The new nozzle is plastic not brass and it slides into the drain holes perfectly so you can do the whole length of the sill.
 
Sorry Dave, unless you have something that ET would be very proud of, I suspect you pulled your nozzle out, not your finger.


Oli.
 

ORIGINAL: zcacogp

Sorry Dave, unless you have something that ET would be very proud of, I suspect you pulled your nozzle out, not your finger.


Oli.

The neighbours are sick of seeing my nozzle out.
 
Refitting assumes they were there to start with. The car is so low that my low access jack only just fits under as it is.
 

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