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New wheels
- Thread starter Lewis S2
- Start date
Dan944t
New member
what size are they 19?
And how does the ride feel over lumps and bumps and how’s tramlining from the chamber of the roads on these?
i have 17 cup 1,s on my turbo and I would have loved to go larger but wanted the best of both as I’ve read if you go any bigger than the 16s and all starts to go downhill regarding handling , ride comfort , and tramlining.
i admit my 17’s are 255/45 at the rear and 215 at the front and I do feel it tramline depending on the road which has stopped me thinking of going any further regarding diameter.
they look lovely though mate and really complement the Car. Mines the same colour red also
atb
daniel
Lewis S2
New member
blade7
Well-known member
DavidL said:Sorry not for me. The earlier CS ones looked much much better. Equally a decent set of CS wheels will pay for your new wheels and tyres these days.
30 year old wheels of unknown provenance for the price of quality new wheels and tyres, not for me thanks.
TTM
Well-known member
Not a fan of the new wheels either, but beyond the look they may be a lot heavier than the originals and affect the handling accordingly.
Lewis S2
New member
Brand new fitted last year for MOT with full thread- Nankangs (not my choice) the fronts are also full thread also a budget tyre but in perfect condition.
Frenchy
New member
if they already have been done they may be scrap.
I like the look of the 18" on yours but I suspect the car would be a much nimbler drive on the originals.
924Srr27l
New member
blade7 said:I've never had tram-lining on 18's with 225 and 265 tyres, have you checked the alignment? I'll concede there's a little more weight to the steering and the lower profile tyres have less give in them though. How much do you want for the old 16's?
This is on a Power steering car though which masks and isolates what your asking the car to do (Deal with heavier and wider rims / tyres)
which also changes the front scrub angle radius, camber arc and kills performance (Adds time to 0-60 acceleration times etc..) puts more strain and work on the dampers, springs, brakes and bushes etc..
If the rack was manual you'd notice a massive (Adverse) difference and the car would be so much more difficult to drive, if like some it's lowered also this makes a bigger diameter / larger rim width setup
handle even worst because the car's roll (axis) centre angle will make it tip worst than a standard ride height.
This car's original design Geometry (Zero Scrub Radius) is only on the 924, as every other evolution (after the base model) had a wider track (early and late 44's and 68) and hence does not handle
the same because the strut angle is (bigger) jacked further out at the bottom stub axle point with longer lateral wishbones, this encourages tramlining on road contours and cambers.
Hence the 924 narrow chassis does not tramline like the wider tracked models do.
R
TTM
Well-known member
Lewis S2 said:I admit not everyone‘s cup of
tea - I‘m Not a fan of Hidious boot spoilers
Well, my "hideous" boot spoiler is at least a (very) rare original part []
924Srr27l
New member
TTM said:Lewis S2 said:I admit not everyone‘s cup of
tea - I‘m Not a fan of Hidious boot spoilers
Well, my "hideous" boot spoiler is at least a (very) rare original part []
And it will add performance NOT make it worst like fitting heavier wheels.
R
blade7
Well-known member
924Srr27l said:blade7 said:I've never had tram-lining on 18's with 225 and 265 tyres, have you checked the alignment? I'll concede there's a little more weight to the steering and the lower profile tyres have less give in them though. How much do you want for the old 16's?
This is on a Power steering car though which masks and isolates what your asking the car to do (Deal with heavier and wider rims / tyres)
which also changes the front scrub angle radius, camber arc and kills performance (Adds time to 0-60 acceleration times etc..) puts more strain and work on the dampers, springs, brakes and bushes etc..
Is there any end to this drivel.
924Srr27l
New member
blade7 said:I don't think many places anodise the CS wheels to give the correct original finish.
No due to their age, especially if corroded etc...unless they are re-machined to clean the metal to regain the
polished look from the refraction of light in-between the machining channels they will look awful.
So in light of NOT machining them to reduce the strength, they can only be painted and this is obviously not as original,
but there's nothing that can be done due to their age and this rarer anodised finish. So owners either leave them as is original
but not the best, or have them not original but the whole rim painted in a silver etc..
R
924Srr27l
New member
blade7 said:924Srr27l said:blade7 said:I've never had tram-lining on 18's with 225 and 265 tyres, have you checked the alignment? I'll concede there's a little more weight to the steering and the lower profile tyres have less give in them though. How much do you want for the old 16's?
This is on a Power steering car though which masks and isolates what your asking the car to do (Deal with heavier and wider rims / tyres)
which also changes the front scrub angle radius, camber arc and kills performance (Adds time to 0-60 acceleration times etc..) puts more strain and work on the dampers, springs, brakes and bushes etc..
Is there any end to this drivel.
The facts will never go away !, and are to be recognised for some that understand them but not for others that don't or don't
want to etc..
Just pointing that for those they say there's not much or any difference it's because of the power steering which assists & masks
a heavier wheel change which would be so much more apparent on a manual rack.
R
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