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Newbie-just bought 1986 2.5 lux

fulvia

New member
[FONT=arial"]After much searching, I collected my first 944 yesterday. This was the sixth car I looked at and has been pretty well looked after. I couldn't have done it without all the great info in this forum! [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"]

Does any one know of a decent garage in the Belper/Derby area?

There are some things which need looking at soon, plus the MOT is due in a couple of weeks.
[FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"]The 100 mile trip back home presented little problems although here is a list of what needs looking at initially and I'd really appreciate any advice on the following:- [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"]

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  • [FONT=arial"]Oil pressure gauge reads above 5 constantly[FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"]Sweet smoky smell when revving it hard which was really noticeable with the windows open. The previous owner drove very carefully, and I've read on the forum that crud could have mounted up over the years if the revs were never taken over 4000 rpm.[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
  • [FONT=arial"]No evidence of belts / tensioners being replaced in last 40,000 miles.[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
  • [FONT=arial"]New bonnet struts [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"]
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[FONT=arial"]And here is what has been noted / advised in the service history. [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"]

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  • [FONT=arial"]play in front struts (I take it they mean the dampers?)[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
  • [FONT=arial"]Play in steering U.J.[FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"]Slight
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  • [FONT=arial"]play in N/S/F bottom ball joint[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
  • [FONT=arial"]O/S engine mount slightly dropped[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
  • [FONT=arial"]Engine oil leaks from front of lower balance seals, possibly main seal[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
  • [FONT=arial"]Engine smokes under load[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
  • [FONT=arial"]New Anti-roll bar bushes recommended [FONT=verdana,geneva"]
  • [FONT=arial"]Steering shaft has some play [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"]
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[FONT=arial"]If all the mechanical issues are successfully sorted out, then I'll move on to look at the paintwork and the intermittently working sunroof. [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"]Also, will replace the original Panasonic - free to anyone who wants it! [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=arial"]Structurally all looks good and I was delighted that the gear shift is really positive "" in some of the cars I test-drove, it was like changing gear with a Wellington boot. [FONT=verdana,geneva"]
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Firstly congratulations on your purchase!

Personally if the mot is due in 2 weeks its prob best to get it done now, some people may think thats silly, but at least you will get a piece of paper from a professional telling you what needs to be done to make the car safe.
From what you have said is advised in the service history it may need a bit of work to go around corners properly. If it goes through the mot no problem then thew will be able to give you the extra weeks on your certificate anyway.
Personally i think it would be best to put it through the mot first before spending too much money on it, at least you will have a guide of whats what, and can start looking at how much its going to cost to mend!
Unless of course money is no object! Then just take it to the garage and let them sort it out!
Good luck! Keep us informed!
 
Hi and welcome

I'd be very wary of oil pressure gauge - you can get it to read 5 all the time by swapping the leads to the pick up!

There are threads on here about most of the other things you mention, just use the search facilities.

I would swap the oil pressure gauge leads and if thats still show good pressure, change the belts asap.

Mike
 
If you are getting exhaust fumes in the car it is probably the rear hatch seal (or the hatch isn't shutting correctly), if that is leaking then when you open the window it will become worse as the fumes will be sucked into the car.
 
PH Sportscars in Cavendish Bridge. Simon, who runs the workshop, is a factory trained technician.
 
Personally if the mot is due in 2 weeks its prob best to get it done now, some people may think thats silly, but at least you will get a piece of paper from a professional telling you what needs to be done to make the car safe.
From what you have said is advised in the service history it may need a bit of work to go around corners properly. If it goes through the mot no problem then thew will be able to give you the extra weeks on your certificate anyway.
Sounds like a good idea -
Unless of course money is no object!
I wish!

ORIGINAL: A9XXC

Hi and welcome

I'd be very wary of oil pressure gauge - you can get it to read 5 all the time by swapping the leads to the pick up!

Mike
Thanks Mike - sorry, do you mean at the sender or in the instrument cluster? In the history a garage has re-secured the oil pressure nut and washer - perhaps they didn't replace the connections properly? BTW is the oil pressure sender down beneath the exhaust manifold?

Thanks James0 - I'll look into the seal -

Thanks 944man, I guess Simon would be ideal to do the belts/tensioners once the MOT is out the way.

Going to go my other half to have a close look at the exhaust smoke colour today. Certainly there weren't clouds of smoke in my rear view mirror on the motorway yesterday, just that pretty strong smell.


 
Paul bought out Alan Kirkman, who owned an MOT and service garage in the unit next door, so theyre able to MOT the car as well.
 
Yes, oil pressure gauge is mounted at the front sort of under the exhaust, dead easy to get at from underneath.

I'd go along with using PH Sportscars at Shardlow and take for an MOT before spending lots on the mechanics.

My thoughts were to make sure the engine will survive long enough to take it there!

I'm only J21 of the M1, if you want a hand etc

Good luck

Mike
 
I'd second Kirkmans / PH sportscars - it does sound like you could be in for a sizeable bill for belts / seals / rollers, but that's a given on these cars every 3-4 years. They are down in Shardlow, just off the A50, and will lend you a (Hyundai) loan car if you ask nicely :)

Oil pressure sender can fail to give permanent 5 bar reading - I'm guessing it goes to 5 bar as soon as you turn on the ignition? - I have a good used spare (in Derby) if you want it.

If those advisories haven't been dealt with, you have a few other jobs needing doing. Simon @ PH can give you a run down of what's really needed (although he's off on holiday this week). There may be some of those jobs you can do yourself. What year is the car? - early cars have very cheap ball joints, later models need a re-con wishbone.
 
Its a 1986. Alloy wishbone but a pair of K70/Golf parts are an option, as theyre the same on this model year only.

Simon
 
ORIGINAL: edh


Oil pressure sender can fail to give permanent 5 bar reading - I'm guessing it goes to 5 bar as soon as you turn on the ignition? - I have a good used spare (in Derby) if you want it.
Yep - 5 immediately the ignition is on. I'll reverse the connections first and see if that sorts it.
ORIGINAL: A9XXC
I'm only J21 of the M1, if you want a hand etc

Good luck

Mike
I'll probably take you up on that Mike. I've got to say, that there is loads of power still, so, I'm hoping that it should get me there ok.

 
ORIGINAL: A9XXC

I would swap the oil pressure gauge leads and if thats still show good pressure, change the belts asap.
Swapped them over, but just the same.
Anyway, the car's booked into PH Sportscars for this Saturday, and they are going to put a healthy engine in it, and MOT the car.
Spoke to Paul there, and he seemed really helpful and the price was reasonable too.

 
Hi mate, welcome and despite intiall problems, get them sorted and your have a great car!. Ive owned my 2.5 lux for just a month now. I got the balance and Timing belts done yesterday for piece of mind. And allthough it cost me a bit, at least ile not have to fork out for a new engine. Gotta do the steering rack on mine AND steering column, as its got play in it. But once thats out the way it'l be be great to drive. Hope everything works out for you , and doesnt cost you too much!.
 
Constructive as ever [8|]

- mind you, not having a "matching numbers" 944 is one of the things I lie awake at night worrying about [;)]
 

ORIGINAL: edh

- mind you, not having a "matching numbers" 944 is one of the things I lie awake at night worrying about [;)]

:ROFLMAO:
Same here...
I'm not even sure what's original on my car anymore, I think there's a bit of metal in one of the rear arches, but that's about it [;)]

Come to think of it, I believe the torque tube is original, I really must try harder.
 
I think you can get one in carbon fibre - in fact I'm suprised you haven't done that already [;)]
 
Its getting a new engine because the oil pressure sender is faulty?

what colpur is the smoke under load?
 

ORIGINAL: edh

I think you can get one in carbon fibre - in fact I'm suprised you haven't done that already [;)]

Trust me Ed, I've been watching the guy talking about building the CF one [:D] I'd also settle for an Aluminium one at a push...
 
Someone talked about making a CF part a few years ago. Im not sure that Id retro-fit a substitute though, when you consider that a torque tube is actually a massive driveshaft running alongside you, turning at 6,000rpm... I saw a picture of a failed TT on an Alfa Romeo Guilietta and itd cut the cabin in half!
 

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