Noob - First buy advice

[pauljmcnulty]

Are there any questions that i can throw at a seller that will have them reacting in a way which will tell me that they are upfront or not?

Warrants a reply of it's own. [&:]

I guess a very abbreviated guide would be:

When were the belts changed, year and mileage as mentioned. By whom, and what else did they change, i.e. water pump. If it's a 16V car when was the timing chain changed or checked, where is the evidence.

When did it have a clutch? This is a £1K job, and although they last forever early clutches have a rubber centre that breaks up when old.

I want to take the plastic vents out of the b-pillar and look inside the sills. That small blister on the outside might look small but the stonechip film hides a multitude of sins. Not like an old Scimitar and it's rotten chassis legs, but still rust. Put a torch or a camera through here, it pops out via the little tab on top of the vent:

Expect loads of waxoyl at best, or daylight at worst. In between is usual, you have to weigh up the cost of repairing a bad one or treating light rust and forgetting it.

If it's a red car, is it unusually highly polished? Red fades to pink, it could be a lovely example that's always ben garaged or a good example of a machine polisher. Fen used to say that guard's red was the most expensive option on a 944, as it will need a respray at some point. [8|]

Later cars suffer from caliper corrosion, ask me about that one. [:'(] All cars have fuel and brake lines that are either new, or need doing soon. All these things are consumables, and I'd not expect a perfect car, but they should be inspected by the service centre in the same way as things like tyres. Evidence of repairs, or a report that says they are fine, go to prove that the car has been looked after.

Ultimately, they aren't any different from other cars: buy from someone you trust, buy on recent history and current condition, look for cars with piles of paperwork, forum users often detail the history of their car for years, get an inspection from a 944 specialist if unsure.

Then, throw a few grand at the best car you'll ever own. If it's a lemon, cut your losses and buy another one. []

 

[robwright]

I love Scimitars but have never owned one. As I can't afford a Jensen Interceptor in any decent kind of condition I have been secretly looking at Scimitars. Don't tell Mrs robwright though []

 

[wibble]

1a. The engine is very unstressed so unlike a turbo there's a lot less to go wrong

If a turbo is properly maintained it is no less reliable than any other model (and vice versa). The same 2.5 8v block was used throughout the turbo range - even in the later 250bhp it is relatively unstressed in standard form.

 

[danfloun]

Again, I thank everyone for there wisdom.
It's give, err at least 3 noobs here an insight into finding our first 944.
Some really good information.

Thanks

 

[Wigeon Incognito]

For those of you looking for an S2 it looks like my old S2 is for sale again. I only sold it in November so I'm a little disappointed it's up for sale again so soon but I can assure you that at the point it left my ownership it wanted for absolutely nothing:-

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2391807.htm

PS: If you look in the sills they will be brown. It definitely isn't rust as they're new sills, it's Waxoyl.

 

[blease]

Every one has different tastes, even within something as well defined as 944 ownership. In my quest for the best car for me I drove an S, an S2 and a Turbo. I would have driven a Lux but I found an S2 that suited my requirements so I went for it. I found the S too gutless at low revs and I prefer the later S2/Turbo front end. The turbo I drove was a beauty with more than enough power for UK roads but I felt the S2 shaded it on all round driveability.
All 3 impressed with the overall aura of build quality and style. All 3 had one or other of the common forms of 944 malady. It's unlikely you will buy a car without them either already apparent or about to become so. But fixing them is straightforward through the well used independent network and a lot less costly than maintaining a 5 year old Beemer or Merc rep-mobile. So far all of you newbies, don't delay. Tool up by reading all the excellent links on here and there is a good buyers guide on the TIPEC forum too. Download Clarke's garage. Then go out and bag yourself the best sportscar bargain going.

If push came to shove and I had to choose between my 996 and the S2, the S2 would get the nod. Honest! (but if I could swap both for my old 3.2 Carrera, I'd be very tempted!)
Hey Widgeon, your old car looks the dogs! Newbies, form a queue!

 

[freebird65]

Thanks for the feedback fellas, a lot of info to chew on!!
Reliant Scimitars? What can i say? Frustrating and addictive, a car that any self respecting petrol head must own in their lifetime. Not as troublesome as many classic cars and, bang for bucks, probably one of the best value classics out there. Oh, the fact that ive owned three may tell you that a Series 1 944 may well be basic but is probably less basic than a Scimitar!!
As for 944s, I suppose it really boils down to whether you buy one from somebody who thought they could run one on the kind of budget you would run a 1984 Fiesta on or from an owner who spent money where and when it was needed, regardless of cost.
Many thanks for your replies, I now know what to look for and, more importantly, where to come for advise.
Thanks
Rob

 

[simdel1]

ORIGINAL: danfloun

Again, I thank everyone for there wisdom.
It's give, err at least 3 noobs here an insight into finding our first 944.
Some really good information.

Thanks

Make that 4![]

 

[944Turbo]

I would disagree about the turbo engine being less reliable, it doesn't have the cam chain issues and I know of more than one case of cracked heads on S2's.

Modified turbos can be less reliable and may be driven harder, but the fact a standard turbo can produce 35% more power reliably would indicate they are pretty strong. Some ancillaries will be worn if not changed - wastegate almost definately and there is a lot of rubber plumbing that will be very tired if original.

Midly modified turbos with additional monitoring especially to air/fuel & boost can be very reliable.

Tony

 

[freebird65]

ORIGINAL: Wigeon Incognito

For those of you looking for an S2 it looks like my old S2 is for sale again. I only sold it in November so I'm a little disappointed it's up for sale again so soon but I can assure you that at the point it left my ownership it wanted for absolutely nothing:-

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2391807.htm

PS: If you look in the sills they will be brown. It definitely isn't rust as they're new sills, it's Waxoyl.

Tell you what, that looks the absolute nuts!!! If I had the cash to hand, id be going to get it ( distance is no barrier to the right car) and bring it home. As an aside, the missus has now seen what a 944 looks like and has decided that changing from a Scimitar isnt such a bad idea....[]

 

[Hairyarse]

I may be going to look at that one Sunday as looking at one not a million miles away. That said, having been out today in robwright's (Cheers Rob!![]) I'm very tempted to go the turbo route now if it wont be an S1

 

[amrbose14]

I'd just like to add two things:
1. Don't dismiss an early 220bhp turbo. A bit like an S2 with more options for tuning and less 'desirable' than either a late turbo or an S2.
2. Buy a car that someone on this list is selling! Don't bother with autotrader - stick with the enthusiast sources.

Chris
220T (and happy with it!)