not another dme thread

[campervan]

hi all my 944 86 lux broke down over three weeks ago now and i am still trying to figure what it could be
apart from buying any parts except a dme relay i have just been testing thing but think i need to spend some now as im getting nowhere as such ??
my taco and fuel gauge has never worked since owning the car so i have no taco bounce but know there petrol in as low level works
had 8o mile spin the week before it broke
aa man on first breakdown said i had one of these but had one sensor on so think its your sensor so towed me home ,
2nd aa man said coil after i was getting some petrol after swapping but then putting back old relay as it fired up
so after doing the normal searches ect checked sensors using youtube method sensor
also made a little tester to check but cant find link at mo only my post on tipec link which has died so i thought i would try on here
it would run for about ten mins after leaving it a day and taking off earth lead so not to drain battery but today as of now she wont start at all which might be better so to speak
so upto now i have
checkd sensors i have no oscilloscope just multi meter
change dme relay
done 3 wire link pump working felt it ?
check 12 volt pin 35 dme
took off one fuel inj wire to see if it ran pressure ??
check coil seems ok as getting flash of timing light when switching on ignition
the annoying thing is i had an oscilloscope but cant find it to check the sensors properly as i just dont want to go out and buy parts that may not need replacing unless there cheepish
any one on here use a bmw sensor
bmw
sorry post might be a bit confusing as im in between looking for scope and fault finding outside and slightly going round in circles prob due to not spending my hard earned
thanks for any help

 

[JSHammond]

I have the same problem with my '91 Turbo and have run through the same checks that you have mentioned with no luck.

Have you tried bypassing the alarm module? Check Clark's Garage for the guide, just be mindful that you may need to crosscheck you are using the right terminals for your car (i.e. the guide mentions pins 1 and 4 for bypassing but on my turbo its actually 1 and 3, ended up with a short circuit and a bit of smoke!)

I have also had the ECU tested by a specialist, unfortunately that wasn't the problem either despite appearing to have water damage.

Could possibly be your Mass Airflow Meter?

Theres also an emergency jumper procedure (Clark's Garage) for the DME relay terminal which I'm going to try when I get a chance.

Josh

 

[campervan]

thanks for the reply josh forgot to mention that i also checked for alarm bypass under dash looks like that has been done at some stage in the cars life and also cracked open my dme looking for damage and dry joints and also swapped over sensor cables to see if that done anything yesterday .
found my oscilloscope after digging half the end bedroom out and goggled how to use it as it was something i was given when i had a go at repairing tvs

 

[campervan]

inside dme looked ok

outcome of using scope
was this
bg ref

dg speed
so i am hoping it is the reference sensor as there was no wave like on the other sensor

 

[pbrett]

ORIGINAL: JSHammond

I have the same problem with my '91 Turbo and have run through the same checks that you have mentioned with no luck.

Have you tried bypassing the alarm module? Check Clark's Garage for the guide, just be mindful that you may need to crosscheck you are using the right terminals for your car (i.e. the guide mentions pins 1 and 4 for bypassing but on my turbo its actually 1 and 3, ended up with a short circuit and a bit of smoke!)

I had same problem, thought DME relay, could work car with btpass but horn kept on sounding when going round corners!!

Check for current to DME through terminal 36 I think, if no current when ignition is on the relay won't close and you will get no ful pump or spark action.

Got to alarm module disconnected it and found it full of water!! Bypassed as per Clark's guide and voila, DME relay now receiving current and all is well with the world.

Not sure where the water came from though, as nothing else in the footwell was wet??

Next job is to trackdown source of a slight clonk from rear suspension, I am thinking either ARB bushes or maybe ball joint?? any thoughts?

 

[Monkeythree]

Next job is to trackdown source of a slight clonk from rear suspension, I am thinking either ARB bushes or maybe ball joint?? any thoughts?

I would suggest starting with the torsion bar carrier mounts. The rubber ones that connect the alloy "arm" of the torsion bar carrier to the chassis rail. My car has done 126,000 miles. The ARB bushes are perfect, the suspension bushes are perfect but these mounts fell apart in my hands when I took the rear beam off.

 

[campervan]

well i have spent the best part of a week after work trying to get the sensor out spraying and leaving over night ect mole grips pliers ect but no joy it will twist but not come out so tonight before it got too dark i have managed to get just one allen bolt out so far to take off the bracket is there just two ? as looking at various pics of them some of them look different , and does it just pull off after levering off from engine .
thanks for any replies

 

[campervan]

i have got both bolts out now and have been trying to lift out bracket while trying to leaver it off the little sticky out bit on block will it come out with sensors still in as im struggling to get them out or do i have just use more force between block and bracket as i dont want to break anything (bracket or good sensor) or do i have to undo bell housing and stuff .
any reply's would be more than welcome
any one used the sensors from gfs sensor
thanks for any reply's

 

[944Turbo]

Sorry been a long time since I had mine out and cant recall. There is a bit of info on clarks garage http://www.clarks-garage.com/ shop manual ign-02 speed and ref sensors,
Tony

 

[vitesse]

I found that the bracket will not move far enough back off the mounting dowel because the sensor jams against bell housing aperture.My solution was to move the heater valve out of the way (drained coolant ) & then saw through the diecast bracket in the appropriate places a bit at a time -otherwise it's separating the bellhousing by loosening the bolts just enough to lever it backwards .
Fortunately.I have an old Eclipse multitool which has a set of different short saw blades leaving the handle inclined upwards so only lost the odd knuckle skin-one problem is that one of the sensors has a separate thin wall alloy cylindrical sleeve which is a tight fit so when the sensor swells,neither will separate.

A replacement S/H bracket cost me £10 so proved to be the best way for me-got the correct multimeter readings from the circuits but the 2 new sensors (around £65 total ) from GSF immediately solved the intermittent starting problems apparently caused by breakdown of the sensor cables caused by heat soak .

 

[campervan]

thanks i will have a look at moving bell housing if its not to hard

 

[campervan]

oh well back to the drawing board
i knew the other day when re looking at clarks testing sensors that the one sensor i thought was faulty was not key word was pulse like heart beat but by this time i had twisted pull it ect so it had to come out any way
so put the new ones in this morning recheck wiring at pins both senser and at wiring loom to ecu she started but only for i guess about 5 mins what a waste of £75 []
least i had a free bottle of wash when i got the sensors from gfs so might just wash her and look at her

 

[Frenchy]

Where abouts is the alarm module under the dash ?

 

[944 man]

Some are loose, but some were installed in an inaccessible riveted on steel enclosure.

 

[pbrett]

ORIGINAL: Frenchy

Where abouts is the alarm module under the dash ?

Mine was in the passenger footwell hanging loose next to the ECU.

It is now in the dustbin!!

 

[campervan]

still not getting to the bottom of this between neighbors coming and chatting every time i am under the bonnet and running out of light
any way
i have recheck my sensors using oscilloscope again
check volts on coil 12 volts on both green and back
checked volts on injectors 12volts on one ground other ?
took off petrol pressure cap thing on rail to see if petrol coming through no gauge to check properly petrol coming out while cranking
checked volts on wire to dme
pin 1 12v
pin 4 9. something volts cranking ?? should it be 12 ??
and some other pins
took out plug and left 1 wire from injector off still no spark that i could see
i have not touched the dizzy cap yet, was going to look tonight but mate phone me for an hr as i came in too check various forums for volts on dme wire plug,
nor air thingy as i am assuming the wire to the dizzyf from coil which i also had off should spark ref clarks garage test
and i am assuming the air valve thing will just run rough ??
any help most appreciated

 

[campervan]

tonight as i was late from work i check coil again using clarks here as it was getting dark i noticed a feint spark from spark plug while grounding the green side of coil earth i will say the spark from earthing the wire was greater than on the plug
i have a new coil intermotor 11330 for a ford what would happen if i fitted it to see if i got a better spark any ideas ?

 

[campervan]

yesterday i went out and put my timing light between spark plug one she fired up straight away so i turned her off to take off said light and back to no start so i assume at least my crank and tdc are in right position day before i took off fuel rail cap to see if i could make a gauge i had fit after half hr farting about i realized it was a vacuum gauge from work i had so just put everything away
so went back to basics again no start with by pass but fuel pump working as making a noise
today i have just checked the injection wire again just on one nearest bulkhead as only one i can get off and i have 12volts on both pins with ignition on, def 12v on only one of them the other day im sure of it
so just had cup of tea while checking up on volts on said wires, went outside with my little light thing i made to test crank sensor put it in injector wire that i had left off and yet again she fired up went over to put injector wire back on but she died before i could do it .
its ike as if she just burnt off bit fuel vapor ?? or what was in rail ??

 

[campervan]

built up a pressure gauge with bit help from local pluming shop for under a tenner

pushed in pump part of dme relay as i cut it open last week pressure went up to 2.5 bar ignition off
cranked it over she started as normal
guage 2 mins later died as normal and sounding like a bag of nails then not starting again check pressure after 20 mins as per clarks still at 2 bar

gonna see what it sounds like tomorrow then if i ever get it running bleed the clutch as i haven't driven it its gone foot to the floor

 

[campervan]

so today i started her again after about 2 mins she cuts out and again pressure does not drop after about 30 mins as per clarks clicky here but i had to go out so when i came back tried to start her but no joy
another video here clicky at 2mins 42 sec she cuts out

i took one injector wire off while it was running your can here it in sound and put it back on but wouldn't start again after it cut out with it off could it be the fuel pressure regulator due to not dropping too 1bar ? after 20 mins ?
i should of taught son how to start car and rev it before i started