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oh my god help


ORIGINAL: robdimond

Yes sir!! Next weekend hopefully!

Any ideas how to get a good seam across the rear quarter? At the moment it's joddled but hard to get enoigh clamping force on it to get a flush joint. Wondering if I should just cut it across and do a butt joint.

Drill a couple of holes through both panels and use self tappers to pull them tight together before doing the seam weld. A dot of weld will fill the holes back in again after you've finished.

M3
 
Slightly O/T but an update on OE sill panel availability:
I went into my local OPC to order both sides for mine. Drivers side available from central stock in 2 days time @ £175 inc VAT.
Passenger side not available until "the end of 2013". The part number is showing in their system but the parts guy was not even able to order it for me.

Cheers,

M3
 
Ties in with what I was told... they are trying to fix the lack of passenger side sills. Progress!
You should be able to get a discount on the list price... if not then try another OPC!
 
Lots of fettling and welding the last two weekends

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and grinding...

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The metal of the join is a bit proud of where it should be. Can I tap it in with a hammer or do I need to start cutting again?
 
You're doing a very good and neat job there mate. Had to do a lot of fettling getting my fastback rear three quarter to fit - there's always quite a bit to do when you've got a lot of angles going on.

Of course you can't stick at just the one side - you'll be doing the other one before the year is out ... :D
 
Got a lot to do on one side before moving over to the other! Not just the front wing and sill either! The inner arch is rusted (all the way around, hidden under the underseal) and there is a bubble on the roof panel as well. All this on a car that looked really very good on the outside...
 
It's funny Rob when you think about it,how many supposedly immaculate 944's are running around with their owners thinking they are in perfect condition. But in reality they are nothing more than 5 mm of under seal and 5 mm of inner seam sealer with no metal in between. I know from experience that these cars can hide a lot of rot and look and feel absolutely solid.
Anyway keep going it looks great and your doing a grand job.
 
Today I drilled a lot of holes...

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The bracket for the ABS pump is solid but lots of surface rust. Am I opening a can of worms if I take the ABS pump out (brake fluid everywhere and nightmare to bleed). Really want to give it a good wire brush and paint.

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Hi Rob, Love all the work you have done mate ! You said the metal was a little proud ? I have know body work repair people to slightly tap it in and then just apply a little filler over the top to get a nice smooth seamless finish ?
regarding the ABS pump ? That bracket that holds the ABS pump on ? Can be unscrewed leaving the ABS pump plumed in ? This way you can clean the bracket up and refit it without having to undo any of the brake pipes .

Keep up the very good work mate !

Best regards J
 
Good work Rob. What size holes did you drill? I found that 6 mm was about the best.(omg cant believe I'm discussing the size of plug welds)

Keep going
 
lovely work rob,,proper job and piece of mind,,nice putting mine through her mot knowing like yourself that i wont have to worry about the sills etc for a very long time,,hopefully,,nice one rob!,,,jp
 
I went for 6.5mm holes in the end! I have a punch thst does 5mm but was too small, so I drill them out. Any tips for lining everything up? I was planning to tack the sill on then refit the door to check.
Good call on the abs pump the bracket should separate.
So much faff but oh so satisfying to know there will be no rust at all and thd car structure will be factory.
 
Get the pump out and check it over , all connections and especially to see if it is starting to swell and size as many are/will do in the future.AMHIK.
Good work on the sills mine has just had identical work done .A common issue now with all later 944's.

Nick
 
Managed to spend a couple of hours, did a few plug welds (still lots to do!) and checked the door fit.

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Now it stays on without any clamps!

 
Nice work Rob. Shows real commitment to keep our cars on the road. Please keep us informed about the abs pump mine looks the same, thought about removing it last winter but chickened out and just bunged in underseal where I could get it but to do the job properly I need to be behind it.
 
Rob beware of working with galvanized metal ! Some one told me recently that it can make you ill ? Here goes .

Metal fume fever, also known as brass founders' ague, brass shakes,[1] zinc shakes, galvie flu, metal dust fever, or Monday morning fever,[2] is an illness caused primarily by exposure to certain fumes. Workers breathe in fumes from chemicals such as zinc oxide (ZnO) or magnesium oxide (MgO), which are themselves created by heating or welding certain metals, particularly galvanized steel.[3] Chromium[4] is also a hazard, from stainless steel. Cadmium,[5] present in some older silver solder alloys can, in extreme cases, cause loss of consciousness within a matter of minutes. Iron itself, and so most simple steels, does not give rise to

Symptoms

The symptoms are nonspecific but are generally flu-like including fever, chills, nausea, headache, fatigue, muscle aches, joint pains, shortness of breath, chest pain, and cough. A sweet or metallic taste in the mouth may also be reported along with a dry or irritated throat which may lead to hoarseness. [6] Symptoms of a more severe metal toxicity may also include a burning sensation in the body, shock, no urine output, collapse, convulsions, shortness of breath, yellow eyes or yellow skin, rash, vomiting, watery or bloody diarrhea or low blood pressure, which require prompt medical attention.[7] Flu-like symptoms will normally disappear within 24 to 48 hours. It often takes 4 days to fully recover


So if you think you have the flu ? It might just be working on the 944 ?
 
I think I'm just mentally ill to spend so much time and effort on a 24 year old car that's not worth very much!

Seriously: I am using zintec because it's the correct material for the car and also it doesn't rust in storage. I generally grind off the layer of zinc before welding and give it a squirt of zinc primer afterwards. I'm also welding in generally short bursts with plenty of ventilation.
 

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