Oil and Oil...
- Thread starter lali
- Start date
Hi Lali
Best engine oil - Castrol Formula RS 10w/60 (not 0w/40). A fully sythetic oil which is cheaper, and has a higher tollerance range, than Mobil 1 15w/50. It is a little dificult to get hold of but can be ordered from Demon Tweeks.
Best gear oil Swepco - fully synthetic and available from Bert at Berlyn Services.
Best track day brake fluid - I don't know but it certainly isn't AP Racing 551
Best engine oil - Castrol Formula RS 10w/60 (not 0w/40). A fully sythetic oil which is cheaper, and has a higher tollerance range, than Mobil 1 15w/50. It is a little dificult to get hold of but can be ordered from Demon Tweeks.
Best gear oil Swepco - fully synthetic and available from Bert at Berlyn Services.
Best track day brake fluid - I don't know but it certainly isn't AP Racing 551
Oil - I prefer mobil1 motorsport but about to try some silkoline
Gear oil - probably swepco from Bert, Is it synthetic? but haven't actually tried it yet will do soon, currently running syntrax
Brake fluid - I use dot 5.1 synthetic (not silicone) but haven't felt the need to try any more expensive race fluid yet
Tony
Gear oil - probably swepco from Bert, Is it synthetic? but haven't actually tried it yet will do soon, currently running syntrax
Brake fluid - I use dot 5.1 synthetic (not silicone) but haven't felt the need to try any more expensive race fluid yet
Tony
Diver944
Active member
Lali, do a search for posts made by Oilman. He has made a lot of posts recently, and though he is in the business of selling oil I have found them all very useful and unbiased. It would really help if you edited your signature to state which type of 944 you have as oil recommendations will be different between types and age [
]
John - I have just learnt from Oilman that the RS 10w60 is NOT a true fully synthetic [], this is one of of those cases of 'marketing' hiding the true facts.
I too am about to try some Silkolene (probably buying a 25 litre barrel between myself and another Northants member)
]John - I have just learnt from Oilman that the RS 10w60 is NOT a true fully synthetic [
], this is one of of those cases of 'marketing' hiding the true facts.I too am about to try some Silkolene (probably buying a 25 litre barrel between myself and another Northants member)
Chris Goodman
New member
Simon
What would you recommend for 944 Turbo SE, used for road and a number of track days? I noticed that with Mobil 1 oil pressure dropped to about 3 bar during recent trackdays at Dijon & Magny Cours (where ambient temp was 25-ish degrees). Brakes became 'spongy' with Dot 5.1 and I'm having braided hoses fitted as we speak - in case that's the prob rather than fluid??
Chris
What would you recommend for 944 Turbo SE, used for road and a number of track days? I noticed that with Mobil 1 oil pressure dropped to about 3 bar during recent trackdays at Dijon & Magny Cours (where ambient temp was 25-ish degrees). Brakes became 'spongy' with Dot 5.1 and I'm having braided hoses fitted as we speak - in case that's the prob rather than fluid??
Chris
Guest
New member
Just becasue the pressure drops as the oil thins is no bad thing, its just easier for the engine to circulate the oil round, therefor less pressure. If it drops because you have no oil then theres a problem for sure.
Recent track day i was getting 3.5 bar at full revs and 2 bar when ticking over in the padock after 15min session. Not a problem as there was still 6l of oil circulating round the engine, just take less effort when its 100deg!!!+
I cant understand why everyone slaggs off mobil 1 as its an exellent product and offeres superbe engine protection, and is great for cold start. If they made a 5W-50 then i would go for that instead.
oilman
New member
You are spot on with that, low pressure is not a bad thing as it is all about striking a balance, as long as it is a good quality oil with enough shear stability to cope with prolonged use at high temps you will be fine, remember oil pressure is a measure of resistance and not flow, and flow is more important.
Mobil 1 produce top quality PAO synthetics and they do make a 5w-50 however it is an uncommon grade and not generally available in this country. If you are looking for a good quality 5w-50 readily available in this country there is the Fuchs Titan Super Syn SL 5w-50 which as a full PAO synthetic.
You can always e-mail me for prices on this and other oils.
Cheers
Simon.
TTM
Well-known member
Mobil 1 5W50 was available in France until they replaced it with Mobil 1 SuperSyn 0W40, pretending "it's just the same, Sir".
I'd rather lose a couple of bhp by using Castrol RS 10W60 instead of increasing wear, oil consumption and overall engine harshness with Mobil 1 0W40.
Each to their own, anyway.
I'd rather lose a couple of bhp by using Castrol RS 10W60 instead of increasing wear, oil consumption and overall engine harshness with Mobil 1 0W40.
Each to their own, anyway.
oilman
New member
Castrol RS 10w-60 is too thick, for best alround if you are looking for a thick oil go for a good 10w-50. It is all down to quality. Most 10w-60 including the Castrol are hydrocracked mineral oil. After a few thousand miles will be shearing down and may be operating at a 10w-40 or lower, get a good PAO or Ester synthetic and it will stay in grade for longer and will not compramise the engines protection.
Cheers
Simon.
TTM
Well-known member
Thanks for the answers/advices, also on Pistonheads.
I barely make a "hard use" (using your terms) of my car so I don't think it will be too dangerous to keep using Castrol RS 10W60, especially since it's been recommended by an ex-Turbo Cup mechanic who has, I think, a clue or two about 944s.
Cheers.
I barely make a "hard use" (using your terms) of my car so I don't think it will be too dangerous to keep using Castrol RS 10W60, especially since it's been recommended by an ex-Turbo Cup mechanic who has, I think, a clue or two about 944s.
Cheers.
Chris Goodman
New member
Like you I use 0W-40. Why would you "go for 5W-50 instead"??
I'm trying to learn from this thread and the previous one containing the technical contribution from Simon's chemist - and I thought I'd grasped that thin (0W?) is good at start-up when most wear takes place (??) because it circulates round the engine more quickly - so are you saying that you'd sacrifice some of that cold performance (5W worse than 0W?) for improved performance when hot (50 better than 40?)?? Or is 0W too thin when cold as Thom seems to be suggesting? Or have I misunderstood everything?
I was introduced to Mobil 1 'Super-Syn' 0W-40 by friends with 350-500bhp+ modern turbo-charged Japanese motors and I have wondered if the tolerances etc. in my older-design Porsche engine ('89 Turbo SE) make it as suitable? The 944 certainly gulps the stuff on the track.
Please excuse ignorance - it's why I use this forum.
Chris
I'm trying to learn from this thread and the previous one containing the technical contribution from Simon's chemist - and I thought I'd grasped that thin (0W?) is good at start-up when most wear takes place (??) because it circulates round the engine more quickly - so are you saying that you'd sacrifice some of that cold performance (5W worse than 0W?) for improved performance when hot (50 better than 40?)?? Or is 0W too thin when cold as Thom seems to be suggesting? Or have I misunderstood everything?
I was introduced to Mobil 1 'Super-Syn' 0W-40 by friends with 350-500bhp+ modern turbo-charged Japanese motors and I have wondered if the tolerances etc. in my older-design Porsche engine ('89 Turbo SE) make it as suitable? The 944 certainly gulps the stuff on the track.
Please excuse ignorance - it's why I use this forum.
Chris
TTM
Well-known member
oilman
It is often verified that what is officially recommended is one thing and what has been independently observed to "perform best" (if ever these subjective terms mean anything) is something else.
A good thing would be to quantify, per example, the level of scoring of cylinders for different types of oils, given certain conditions of use.
I would feel mostly obliged if you had such a document to show me, as longevity is the only thing I'm after.
It is often verified that what is officially recommended is one thing and what has been independently observed to "perform best" (if ever these subjective terms mean anything) is something else.
A good thing would be to quantify, per example, the level of scoring of cylinders for different types of oils, given certain conditions of use.
I would feel mostly obliged if you had such a document to show me, as longevity is the only thing I'm after.
oilman
New member
Yes you understand what I've said perfectly.
I would say that a 0w oil is probably fine if the engine is in top condition but remember that the 0w needs to meet the -35 degC pour point test and in the UK these brass monkey temps do not apply.
5w-40 which is Porsche's recommended viscosity also needs to meet a staggering -30 degC pour point.
Personal choice really and a case of what you are using the vehicle for so don't get too hung up about it.
My recommendation would be for 5w-40 or thicker up to 10w-50 if you are using the car competitively.
We have a number of Porsche Approved oils and the viscosities vary from 0w-30 to 10w-50 so the range is wide.
Cheers
Simon
Guest
New member
As I understand the 0 rating is not really much different to the 5W rating and certainly only comes into play when temps are about -30 or something. As I live in Scotland I would rather not go any higher than 5W for the cold rating. I don't have a problem with 0W-40 oil, my car runs fine with it, but I like the idea of a 5W-50 to kind of cover all the bases so to speak. My car drive on the road 99.9% of the time and get a filter and oil change every 6k miles, I suppose using just about any quality fully synthetic would be fine. I have to add about 1 litre every 1000miles. I have a couple of small leaks so its not all being burned through the turbo/pistons.
Thats my take on it anyway.
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
