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Oil Change Question

AntB

New member
Going to do an oil change first thing to the new Mobil 1 that I have.. but have a daft question:
The car is on the drive where I will do the change and has been all night - so should I just drain the oil now when its all cold and probabily all the oil has all drained into the sump overnight, or do you recommend I get the oil to running temp first, let it settle for a bit, then drain?

Cheers Ant
 
Warm engine up to operating temperature.

Add a can of engine cleaner to the oil.

Run for 10-15 minutes at idle.

Drain.

Change filter.

Replace drain plug.

Pour new oil in, to 'max' on the dipstick.

Leave for 30 minutes (while changing the air filter, plugs etc.)

Check oil level and top up.

Drive. (Fast).


Oli.
 
getting it up to operating temp makes the oil a bit too hot for me! worth having it warm though...

I'd also leave it to drain for a couple of hours - it's suprising how much extra comes out over that time. I'd also remove the filler cap.

I'll leave you to come back with the "how do I stop my oil going everywhere when I remove the filter" question [:D]
 
ORIGINAL: edh
I'll leave you to come back with the "how do I stop my oil going everywhere when I remove the filter" question [:D]
When someone comes up with the answer to that then I'll be VERY interested to read it! [:D]


Oli.
 
Answer:

Punch a small hole as high as possible in the oil filter at the same time as you drain the oil from the sump. wait until the oil has finished draining before removing the filter. This allows air into the filter, and oil to drain out before you take the filter off.
A little still remains, as the filter is canted at an angle, but a lot, lot less clearing up to do - most can be prevented with a rag below the filter as you remove it.

Regards,

Tref.
 
Tref,

That's a very good idea. Thank you. I'll be sure to try it. (Oil change due on mine in the next month or so - I'll let you know how I get on!)

(Of course, the downside is that if you can't shift the filter then you have then scuppered it by putting a hole in it. If you hadn't holed it then you would be able to drive it to your local indie to have him give it a heave ... maybe I'm a pessimist!)


Oli.
 
Whilst I can't afford to take my car to an independant anyway, so I have to fix it myself, I also can't afford for the car to be off the road unnecessarily, so I always "break the seal" of the filter to housing so I know it will turn before I punch the hole in[;)]
 
I'm in just the same situation!

Yes, giving the filter a preparatory twist before punching the hole in it is the logical answer - as it occured to me just after posting the last comment!

Thanks for the advice. The idea is a good one and I will certainly be trying it. What do you punch the hole with? (I can't imagine Mrs zcacogp will be that chuffed if I take her tin opener to it ... maybe a sharp nail and small hammer is a better bet!)


Oli.
 

ORIGINAL: zcacogp

Tref,

That's a very good idea. Thank you. I'll be sure to try it. (Oil change due on mine in the next month or so - I'll let you know how I get on!)


Oli.

Oli, once you've done the job successfully (as I am sure you will) try this trick on the beer can that you will reward yourself with! And get ready to drink fast[:D]
 
ORIGINAL: James_G
Oli, once you've done the job successfully (as I am sure you will) try this trick on the beer can that you will reward yourself with! And get ready to drink fast[:D]
Hang about, how do you do that then? Or, more accurately, when do you punch the hole in the can? If you do it while the can is open and upright then all the beer will come out of the hole you have made. If you do it while drinking from the can then you will be trying to punch a hole in a can which you are holding in one hand, in the air, while drinking from it - which would be a sight to behold!

I'm confused! [&:]

(And anyway, I thought you drank single malts!)


Oli.

P.S. I never drink beer from the can. Far too ... common, dahling! Always much better decanted into a pewter beermug.
 
Well - job done!

thanks for the notes people...

It was an interim change so no plugs / air filter (have K&N anyway) change needed.

Removed sump plug and let it all drain - then jacked the near-side of the car higher than the off-side and a lot more came out... let that drain until there were no drips (or at least very few and far between)

Surrounded the oil filer with rags and just used my oil filter removal grips to remove it - all excess oil went on rags so no issue there..

Didnt replace the sump plug - just the washer - will change the sump plug on the next change.

Put 6 ltrs in, left for 15 mins or so - dipped and then topped up

Turned over the engine for 10 or so revolutions with coil lead off... then started her up properly for a min.

Let settle for 10 mins, dipped and topped up to just under max

Took her out for a drive (as you said Oli - fast!!)

Checked oil after 10 mins on drive... just on MAX..

Top job..


 
I'm sorry, I am an engineer, there fore I cannot tell you that I have an old abused ex-pozi-drive screwdriver that is never going to undo a screw again that I hit with a hammer. No... No self-respecting engineer would ever admit to abusing tools...

Hmmm thinking about it... why don't I just grind a point on it now, and then it will be ok, because it is a tool I have especially modified to do a specific job!

I guess anything long and pointy - a Monty-Python Rabbit should do it...
 

ORIGINAL: zcacogp

ORIGINAL: James_G
Oli, once you've done the job successfully (as I am sure you will) try this trick on the beer can that you will reward yourself with! And get ready to drink fast[:D]
Hang about,  how do you do that then? Or, more accurately, when do you punch the hole in the can? If you do it while the can is open and upright then all the beer will come out of the hole you have made. If you do it while drinking from the can then you will be trying to punch a hole in a can which you are holding in one hand, in the air, while drinking from it - which would be a sight to behold!

I'm confused! [&:]

(And anyway, I thought you drank single malts!)


Oli.

P.S. I never drink beer from the can. Far too ... common, dahling! Always much better decanted into a pewter beermug.

There's a tiny danger of us going off topic here...but, you put a small hold in the side of the can toward the bottom. Put your finger over it. Then open the can and raise, by which time the small hole is now at the highest point, take your finger off the hole and .....well the rest you can imagine.

A mispent youth I'm afraid, but I do still drink beer and single malts, although not at the same time obviously!
 

ORIGINAL: zcacogp

Ant,

Please stop talking about changing the oil. This thread has moved on. Didn't you notice?

Tsk!

Oli.

You are quite correct - forgive me.... Who cares about oil changing when there is a very important discussion to be had about beer drinking [:D]

Little early for a beer now and have to go out for the aft.... but I dare say I may have one or two small ones this eve! [:)]
 
Tref,

I'm a failed engineer. Does that permit me to have a very similarly-abused screwdriver in my workshop whereas you aren't allowed yours?

James,

Feel the danger ... and learn to love it! Thanks for the clarification. Will try it ...

Ant,

Here's to the beers this afternoon >RaisesGlassOfWineToToastTheIdea<


Oli.
 
As a failed engineer does that make you errm.......not an engineer? Therefore you are allowed to abuse your tools to your hearts content! And then drink beer!
 
Guys. Less straining on the starter, and particularly useful when getting oil pressure up after an engine rebuild, is to crank the engine with the plugs out, especially if you are changing them anyway. Leave them out until you have some pressure built up.

I am led to believe that to leave the HT lead disconnected or unearthed can irreversibly damage parts of the ignition control system.
I am not a failed engineer and use a strap type oil filter wrench to remove the filter canister. Does this count.

 
I can't really see the problem on an NA engine, the advice has always been to turn the engine over without firing on turbocharged cars because the blow down in the exhaust will spin the turbo pretty hard, and on many engines it takes a while for the oil to get round the turbo. If you don't have a turbo then the engine is spinning over pretty fast anyway, arguably the high torque output of the starter does more damage to the engine then ticking over at idle would.

Another option I mentioned in the past to ease oil changing is to fit an oil drain valve, less messy and you can change hot oil without burning your skin off. Type 911 sell them and I have one to put on the race car as that will get a lot of oil changes. It also opens up the possibility of doing oil sampling, although for me that is a lesser concern but is a nice to have.
 
I should say the above with reference to oil changing, although I have many times either left the plugs out or the leads off for the first few seconds of cranking.

Graphogen (spelling) is the dogs danglies for engine rebuilds.
 

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