Oil Change Question

[924nutter]

So Neil are saying that the huge torque of the starter motor has the potential to damage our engines everytime we start them. I have to say I am doubtful of that. All I am saying is that generally, with all five of the various makes of engine I have rebuilt, oil pressure, sufficient to extinguish the oil warning light comes up quicker. I learnt the hard way, how not to do it, on my first beetle engine rebuild. It ran the big ends during the pressure build up on its first 500 mile oil change.

I am up for a rebuild of the 924 turbo and am interested in that jollop where do you get it?

 

[Hilux]

Answer:

Punch a small hole as high as possible in the oil filter at the same time as you drain the oil from the sump. wait until the oil has finished draining before removing the filter. This allows air into the filter, and oil to drain out before you take the filter off.
A little still remains, as the filter is canted at an angle, but a lot, lot less clearing up to do - most can be prevented with a rag below the filter as you remove it.

Dont the filters have a one way valve? I thought they did? If not then they must drain down anyway so must be as empty of oil as they can be when removed so poking a hole in it wont help either way?

Wont it? [8|]

 

[tref]

Funnily enough, have just changed the oil and filter again today in my S2...

Paul, I believe (no more than that) that the oil stays in the filter as a result of the vacuum it would pull if it were to try and flow out through the narrow passage. The little hole in the top lets air in. The result of the little hole is variable, as proven today when oil fell out of the little hole as soon as the filter was turned half a turn. Thats said, no significant volume of oil leaked from the bottom of the filter, so most of it had indeed drained down,either just this time, or does every time. I agree, I thought filters had a non-return valve in them, I guess it depends which side of said valve the majority of the oil and the little hole is.

924 Nutter - there are a variety of assembly gunges used in different parts of the engine - I know there is a specific brew intended for the camshafts and followers to start with. I know I used something different on the bottom end rebuild whilst assembling it, But I got a small quantity from a local engine builder I have a lot of respect for - probably a better bet that trying to track the stuff down if it is for a one-off. Does it say anything in the pucker Porsche manual?

 

[Neil Haughey]

ORIGINAL: 924nutter
So Neil are saying that the huge torque of the starter motor has the potential to damage our engines everytime we start them. 

I guess it must actually cause wear as the oil is cold, may not be everywhere it needs to be and the torque of the starter is very high. The point was more that I can't see how running an NA engine straight off after an oil change will do much worse. In both cases the engine is spinning whilst the oil pressure is built up, spinning the engine on the starter with the plugs out will definitely without doubt be better then just taking the coil lead off, as the engine will jurk around as each cylinder of air is compressed. Without the load from compression the engine will likely spin much more smoothly. Turbo engines are different matter as I highlighted earlier, 100% definitely do not run a turbo engine straight off after an oil change. I guess actually your first suggestion sounds very much like the optimal one.

The Graphogen stuff we got from an engine specialist place in Northampton years ago, loads of info on the web, interestingly enough much of it forum threads like this one [] You can buy it of ebay as well.