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Paintwork protection on new cars

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A few months away yet, but the Cayman launch is getting me itchy...

When my pride and joy arrives next year, what is the best paintwork protection I can get applied before it gets used on the road?
 
Your OPC should supply your car prep'd and polished. Any so called special polished finishes are a waste of time, unless they come with a relevant guarantee.

The only effective paintwork protection involves the clear film that is applied to vulnerable areas to prevent stone chips.
 
Dead right, Oliver.
This subject came up at the Register visit to OPC Cambridge 6 November. The bodywork foreman said the same thing, and did not like the idea of plastic "spats" because they were too noticeable .

JohnC
993 turbo
 
ORIGINAL: oliver

Your OPC should supply your car prep'd and polished. Any so called special polished finishes are a waste of time, unless they come with a relevant guarantee.

The only effective paintwork protection involves the clear film that is applied to vulnerable areas to prevent stone chips.

We were at OPC Cambridge yesterday for the Boxster register meetup. When we got the tour of the bodyshop floor one of the question asked was the film and apparently this is becoming a big issue with Porsche AG as it is believed to be leading to paint damage under the film.

We were also told that the film cost pretty much the same price as it would cost to re-spray that surface, so it is down to personal perference.

I personally feel it is only worth consdidering if you are planning to do a lot of motorway mileage...
 
I've seen Armourfend used on a car. The film is clearly visible and so is a faint white line where the chalky deposits (from polishing the car) around the edges build up. Looks bad in my opinion.
 
I was at the OPC cambridge too - interesting to hear what they said - especially since my Boxster had armourfend on it when I bought it. Pesonally I think armourfend is the work of satan and I wouldn't recommend it for exactly the reasons outlined. On a dark car you can see the film and it looks sh1te. You'll also find that it can only stop a certain amount of chipping, so if you ever take it off again you'll STILL need a respray.
 
So, it's clean and polish regularly and respray stone chips every few years, then? Is that the best we can do?
 
Yes.

Just wash it properly, do not use washing up liquid - but one of the main products [car shampoo by Autoglym is what I use] and a clean cloth /chamois.

The OPC manager said that the cost of repainting a chipped front was the same as buying any chip protector and he did not recommend it.

Looks like a morning of washing and cleaning every week or so.

Enjoy the car.
 
ORIGINAL: juliany27

Looks like a morning of washing and cleaning every week or so.

[:eek:] Ooops I do this with my daily driver 2/3 times a week!! But would add doesn't take me longer than 15 minutes per sesh ... Is there a cure out there for me [&o]
 
ORIGINAL: juliany27

The OPC manager said that the cost of repainting a chipped front was the same as buying any chip protector and he did not recommend it.


And he was spot on. I hated having it on the car because it spoiled the look - in fact a friend of mine said it looked like a bodged repair job. I think you've just got to bite the bullet (I have) and accept you'll need a respray every few years. Anyway, why pay good money for a beautiful paint job, and then hide it under a layer of sellotape?
 
At the risk of stating the obvious, the best solution for avoiding paint chips is not to tailgate. Generally keep your distance and you'll get very few. I tend to keep my distance and have had no noticeable paint chips even with my dark paintwork.
 
Slightly off topic: I'm told that a good canuba based solid wax will actually harden if allowed to 'bake' in direct sunlight after initial application. This may also help protect from, or minimise damage from stone chips.

On the subject of washing: Use Johnsons Baby shampoo in the blue bottle. It's PH neutral so will not harm the paintwork, polish or remove any of the wax. It does not agravate rusting of paint chips, unlike many other detergents. It gives plenty of suds and It's also cheap! A single cap full in a bucket of warm water does the trick, so it also lasts. Many of the professional valeters use it.

KP
 
ORIGINAL: jw

At the risk of stating the obvious, the best solution for avoiding paint chips is not to tailgate. Generally keep your distance and you'll get very few. I tend to keep my distance and have had no noticeable paint chips even with my dark paintwork.

Tosh! I don't tailgate and my car is covered in chips - I've even got one or two on the hood cover! [&:]
 
ORIGINAL: JCB..

ORIGINAL: jw

At the risk of stating the obvious, the best solution for avoiding paint chips is not to tailgate. Generally keep your distance and you'll get very few. I tend to keep my distance and have had no noticeable paint chips even with my dark paintwork.

Tosh! I don't tailgate and my car is covered in chips - I've even got one or two on the hood cover! [&:]

jw forgot to add: or overtake [;)]
 
Slightly off topic: I'm told that a good canuba based solid wax will actually harden if allowed to 'bake' in direct sunlight after initial application. This may also help protect from, or minimise damage from stone chips.

I've heard that told as well but unless the 'laws of physics' have changed since I left school I fail to see how a layer of wax a few microns thick can deflect a small lump of rock which may well be travelling at a relative speed around 140MPH!

This is what you need.....

http://memory-alpha.org/en/wiki/Polarized_hull_plating

JCB..
 
I can't wait to fit a "Shields up" button in the centre console [8D]




Edit: I can spell, but my fingers can't...
 

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