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Its one of the things I will be talking to Kevin about on Saturday, another is I want a mount near the drivers door so I can run a bowden cable from the hatch release round to the B pillar, similar to that I have seen on some 968's but on the 944 the cable runs the other side of the boot to the motor. Hence with no motor I want instead to just fit a much longer cable (Thinking about it perhaps it has to go to the passenger side to avoid the fuel filler neck). The 3rd thing I can recall of the top of my head is mounting the DME as there is little point in keeping the footplate and bracketry, seems to me that the passenger side of the trans tunnel near the front is ideal for this. Something tells me the shell will already be having all this stuff anyway as up to now every single question I have asked about has been met with we do this anyway sort of answer, such as complete set of mounts on both sides for harnesses with pre-installed eye bolts for example.

Just remembered another item on the list is brackets for the bonnet.

BTW my brother has more or less completed the strip down, just need to move the engine and gearbox now. Its all happening much quicker then I expected we are aiming to have the car totally complete by end of May, including some renovation of parts coming of the old car.
 
Neil, I imagine a bike brake cable would do the rear hatch job for you, and also could be routed thru the filler neck area of the rear quarter. Maybe you could locate a 911 engine cover Cable / handle and the section from the door shut (3" sq) to locate it - the breakers must have something?
good luck - it sounds like you are busy!
George
 
Or use a very long battery cut-off cable, this is what I have seen on a few race cars and ISTR seeing just the job in GPR or Demon Tweeks.

Very busy but TBH nothing compared to my brother who it has to be said is doing more then 90% of the real work, I am doing my normal day job + thinking about stuff and annoying him with ideas [:D]

Its his Birthday next week so I am buying him an engine crane, I think I may have a little Yorkshire blood in there [:D]
 
Id second the 12ft extinguisher/electrical cut cable and a simple fabricated bracket. If its on the passenger side then you arent going to hurt yourself on it in the event of a scenery/vehicle interface..... With regards to the bonnet brackets: a picture is worth a thousand words, and I have a very good picture which I will send you (or a link to it), whichll help, hopefully.

Simon
 
my boot release cable is on the passenger side of the 68...

Bonnet latches... I've got lockable aeroclips on the widowmaker now and kevin is fitting them to the 68 as well. Are you having the bonnet as a lift off or keeping the hinges?
 
Id suggest having the clips that Lali is talking about: Kev is paying about half their retail cost at Demon Thieves and theyre smarter than bare pins. Theyre a pin underneath though, so youll still needs the brackets.
 
Yeah those are the ones I want, they look great and look like they won't rust to pieces like the old fashioned pins did on my old mini.

Passenger side for hatch release has some definite safety advantages, and of course the cable run is really easy.

One other minor detail I want to get to the bottom of during the build is if the power from the battery needs to be a red cable? I suspect there is a reg somewhere saying this as I have seen 2 race cars with red battery cable. If so I would rather sort that now then muck about with it after the car is built.
 
Personally Id suggest retaining your hinges and looking at a quick release fixing. Its a struggle but itll be worth it if you need to keep raising the bonnet to fiddle with something... [;)]
 
Cheers Simon the picture helped a lot thanks, had a look at the ones on Lali's car whilst there. Anyone going to EMC over the next few weeks should see my shell in prep.
 
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