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Porsche 944 Turbo, 1988, front driving lights

ORIGINAL: John Sims

ORIGINAL: pvm_944Turbo

........... I'll take the lights out tomorrow and see what's what.....


Ha that's what you think. Welcome to the emotional roller coaster of 944 ownership. The odds on you getting the lamp units out without having to drill out the rusted bolts is pretty remote.....I'd almost put money on it.

Get spares from your OPC before you start. I'd even consider replacing the lights themselves, they look much nicer new. [;)] I believe German & Swedish will be the cheapest but others may be able to provide more info.

grumble grumble .... screws won't budge an inch. I even tried the shouting technique, as in the louder you shout, the easier they turn, but that didn't work. How do I get these screws out without destroying the treads in the holes on the car?
 
ORIGINAL: pvm_944Turbo

ORIGINAL: John Sims

ORIGINAL: pvm_944Turbo

........... I'll take the lights out tomorrow and see what's what.....


Ha that's what you think. Welcome to the emotional roller coaster of 944 ownership. The odds on you getting the lamp units out without having to drill out the rusted bolts is pretty remote.....I'd almost put money on it.

Get spares from your OPC before you start. I'd even consider replacing the lights themselves, they look much nicer new. [;)] I believe German & Swedish will be the cheapest but others may be able to provide more info.

grumble grumble .... screws won't budge an inch. I even tried the shouting technique, as in the louder you shout, the easier they turn, but that didn't work. How do I get these screws out without destroying the treads in the holes on the car?

:rolleyes: - Nearest I could get to a smug smiley.

Drill a 1mm or 1.5mm hole in the end of the bolt then hammer a small allen key or star drive bit into the hole (use the sort of bits that go in magnetic holders for screwdrivers etc). This might get enough purchase but is unlikely.

You can keep trying this with bigger holes until the hole gets so big that the head falls off.

Once the head falls off all the bolts you can then remove the light unit and attack the shaft of the bolts.
 
ORIGINAL: John Sims

Well after three years of going to I have finally modified Beaky's lights so they don't come up on position 1. [:)]

Belinda will tell you that 3 years is a relatively quick turn round on the "jobs to do" list.

Not the tidiest solution. I was going to modify the plug thing that came out but unfortunately it is missing one of the pins I need. Pin 4 I think.

hlmod.jpg

I believe with this mod if you were to switch to position 1 to switch on your sidelights then switch the lights onto switch postition 2 for dipped headlights, then switch back onto position 1 the pods will not lower but the lights will switch off. Is this correct?
 
ORIGINAL: sawood12

I believe with this mod if you were to switch to position 1 to switch on your sidelights then switch the lights onto switch postition 2 for dipped headlights, then switch back onto position 1 the pods will not lower but the lights will switch off. Is this correct?

Yes
 
ORIGINAL: Diver944
Is there a mod to make it happen on my S2 as well [8|] they currently stay down until poistion 2 as it's a later car

I would like to know too.
Can it be done on later cars ?
 
thanks for the how-to chaps :)

just done this on the turbo, got a relay buzzing sound tho... then realised i forgot to unplug the fag packet sized thingie under the dash and now its fine [:)]
 
In case anyone is looking here in the future, I eventually drilled the heads off the screws and replaced them with new screws, and only lost one screw fixture per side. New bulbs and new G12 relay, and all works fine now.
 
Hi pvm_944Turbo

Where did you get your screws from and what size did you use.

This is a job I have to do to mine too.

Cheers

Lee
 
Homebase - self tapping screws, 4mm by 20mm. Perfect fit - sold in box of 10 for under 2 euro.
 
1) Remove 'relay' G6, this is not actually a relay but a series of
links.
2) Remove the plug from the dim-dip unit. This will be found (in my '88
S anyway) above the accelerator pedal (right hand drive car) and is a
silver box roughly cigarette packet sized. The plug will have wires of
the following colours, Black/yellow, White, Yellow, Brown, and Grey.
3) Tape up the removed plug and tuck it away in the loom. The contacts
whilst shrouded will be live when light are on, so we want to take no
chances.
4) Make up 4 link wires from 1.5mm wire approx. 8 cm end to end
including crimps. Put a male spade type crimp (lucar) on each end.
5) Connect the sockets you removed G6 from as follows,
0 - 4
9 - 2
5 - 7
6 - 8

I thought it might be better to resurrect this thread than to start a new one.

I've just done the above modification, but it didn't work for me.

Sure enough, switch to sidelights and they come on without lifting the headlights. Great. But, switching up to headlights, they still don't pop up. Damn.

I checked and double-checked, I've removed the connection from the dim-dip unit and all my link wires are in the right places where relay G6 used to be. I've double-checked their positions against the photo posted by John.

But the headlights no longer work.

Has anyone got any idea what might be going wrong? For now I've put everything back to normal and it's all working just fine.
 
Now that is strange, I carried out this mod as per John's post only 2 weeks ago
and it does work all O.K.

1987 944s

Andy
 
That might be worth thinking about actually, the spade connectors are not as long as the pins on the standard relay. I wonder if I can get longer spade connectors somewhere to try instead?
 
As luck would have it, I found an alternative G6 "˜relay' in the back of the garage half an hour ago. Photo attached, showing the standard '89 relay and the older one I just unearthed.

On the left is the standard '89 plug with definite dim-dip behaviour.
On the right is the other plug I found in the bottom of a spares bag.
The diagram on the other plug seems to match the home-wiring job I've been trying to do, according to the instructions that seem to be working for everyone else.

So, I popped in the older G6 plug and disconnected my dim-dip box under the dash.

Still not working as it theoretically should. Same result I had with my own bridging wires.

At least that tells me that my problem isn't my spade connectors being too short. It's something else. I also now know that with the modification my headlights are coming on when I switch 'em on, they're just not popping up.

This was meant to be so easy "¦ *sigh*

BB5A8D66C3D24E7C8331BFBBAD447E2C.jpg
 
I tried taking my front lights out last night to fit some new bulbs, and as has been mentioned on this thread the screws are nice and rusty.

The thing is though, of the 3 that were in place on my offside light 1 came straight out and the other 2 are just turning in situ but not moving out.

The light feels loose but it isn't ready to come out properly on the left (if I was looking at it straight on) - is there anything else that holds the unit in aside from the four self tappers?
 
Mine had some lovely rusty screws too, but I did eventually get them out, albeit after drilling out 2 of them. Nothing else holding them in on mine, bar some rust and dirt[8|]
 

ORIGINAL: TTM

ORIGINAL: Diver944
Is there a mod to make it happen on my S2 as well [8|] they currently stay down until poistion 2 as it's a later car

I would like to know too.
Can it be done on later cars ?

Why not just turn on headlights pos 3 and then turn back to pos 2? sidelights on headlights up easier than messing with the wiring and you have a choice.

Otherwise speak nicely to those modding the other way for the link plug and under dash unit - will be a pain if the wiring isnt there though.

Tony
 
Apologies for resurrecting this thread but can anybody confirm that they swapped the original G6 relay for the non-88/89 one and in conjunction with disconnecting the box under the steering column this worked?
 

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