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Rear hatch won't shut properly

A

A.Wang

New member
I've identified the first problem with my recently-acquired 944 S2 - the rear hatch can be opened from the outside simply by pulling hard in the upwards direction.

Am I correct in saying that the boot could normally be opened only by the switch? "Slamming" it shut with as much force as I dared didn't seemed to help.

Also, when I lock the car up, the boot lock doesn't seem to work - I could still pull the rear hatch up without too much force!

Would this be a problem with the catches, or the central locking...or something more expensive?
 
be carefull with the hatch it is all glass. In this weather it would be easy to break it. Allways pull up and close down from both sides at once, never on one side.
It sounds like your hatch bolts need adjusting and possibly the hatch cable adjusters which are behind the carpet between the rear light clusters. The motor is there also
944hatchlocks.jpg

944hatchmotor.jpg

 
Cool thanks guys, I'll take a look tomorrow - sounds like it's relatively easy to fix then...the motor definitely works as the switch releases both catches with no problems.

I was quite worried about the current arctic weather and that big bit of glass...so the car's living "indoors" at the moment (I'm lucky enough to have spare a spare garage at the moment) - it's probably warmer than me at night! :)
 
Before adjusting anything try some light oil in the two catches you can see when you open the hatch, that sorted mine when it did exactly the same thing. The jaws that grip the pins can stick open. I also found that if this was the case holding the button down and cycling the motor would eventually free the jaws and lock it.
The key often will not open the hatch as the microswitch fails over time. The rear hatch key just turns a cam that strikes the switch, not a bad job to replace.
 
OK sounds like a plan - I'll give that a go first. This may sound like a silly question...but would WD40 do the trick? :)
 
+1 for the lubricating the catches - you can see easily enough if they are opening properly by turning th ekey with the hatch open.

Also have a look at the pins that screw into the hatch - loosen off the retaining nuts & see if you can improve things by lengthening the pins slightly. I find you need to get them set just right to ensure the hatch closes tightly & stays closed.
 
I tried turning the key in the boot lock last night but it wouldn't turn at all...is that an indication that the lock's broken, or the catches are stuck open rather firmly? I think I can still hear a click from the boot area when I lock the car up at the driver's door...
 
It might just be gunged up with all the crud that gets sucked onto the back of the car when you're moving. Mercedes used to do a kit with two little aerosols for the locks, one to free it if it was stuck (or frozen - much easier than p**ing on it!) and the other to lubricate. Very effective but expensive. WD40 seems to achieve the same for less. I'd start with a squirt with the key part-inserted.
 
ORIGINAL: RHT45

Mercedes used to do a kit with two little aerosols for the locks, one to free it if it was stuck (or frozen - much easier than p**ing on it!) and the other to lubricate.
Click to expand...

[:D][:D][:D]

What in this weather - hands up who's got an image?![;)][:D]
 
ORIGINAL: sc0tty

Firstly, open the boot hatch using the switch in the drivers side footwell, then unclip the rear boot carpet, then you will see the microswitch the operates the motor.
Click to expand...
what you mean like in my pictures ??? [:(]

It could be frozen but it could also be due to having a different key . A lot of door locks get changed in these old cars which means you need different keys for glove box, doors and hatch.

I would get someone to operate the electric hatch-switch while you watch the operation of the motor pivot and the two hatch locks . You should see the problem then.
If you find a source for the microswitch let me know cos mine's dead too
 
From post #4 "the motor definitely works as the switch releases both catches with no problems".

There are clearly 2 issues, which are unrelated:

  1. The lock issue will not turn. as the car is inside then it is unlikely to be frozen so I'd say it's had the lock changed and it's not the right key is most likely
  2. The hatch can be pulled up without releasing the catch. This might just be adjustment, but my mney would be on worn pins. Provided everything isn't corroded up you can adust the pin length and also the catch position. I think Clarks Garage will have the method and I'm near positive it's in the workshop manual. I can't remember exactly how to do it so I won't try to explain it in case I give mis-information.
The hatch is locked all the time regardless of the doors being locked or unlocked when it's working correctly, so you should not be able to just pull it up ever. When it's all fixed it should pop open completely when you operate the button in the footwell, but you need new gas struts to make that work usually.
 
Once you've fixed the problem - new gas struts make all the difference as Fen said. Easy to fit and for the first time ever a 944 I owned the hatch now pops up on its own. A good, worthwhile, cheap fix.
 
OK I finally had time to play with the rear hatch mechanisms today, and here's what I found...
  1. The boot lock is definitely different from ones on the ignition, doors and glove box, that's why it wouldn't turn
  2. The catches on both sides moved when I manually turned the central lock mechanism (in Nick's first picture above)
  3. The motor's working - when I shut the boot and press the switch, the hatch pops up lazily but doesn't go all the way up (new gas struts will fix that)
  4. The hatch pins look rather worn - I seem to recall seeing a hatch pin replacement kit?
What do you guys reckon - worn hatch pins? I don't think the catches are getting stuck open, and the motor seems to be working fine (based on point 3 above).

I'll grab my camera and take some photos if I haven't been clear?
 
that sounds pretty much like we all expected actually.
As a temporary measure I have before now loosened the lock nuts on the hatch pins and turned the pins 90 degrees and re-tightened. This places an unworn part of the pins in contact with the hatch lock slides .(Only a small section of each pin is in contact with the lock slides )
It will work fine until you get around to replacing them in better weather.
 
If only I could turn the lock nuts! It's rusted solid on both pins! [:mad:] I tried to extend the pins a bit and see if that'd solve the problem...and promptly gave up when I started covering the floor with WD40!

Should I get the hatch pin replacement kit from my local OPC or would it be cheaper online?
 
The latches can wear and fail too, which is harder to deal with. Its happened to my old 944, so Ive drilled the rear glass and fitted Grayston panel clips...[;)]
 
ORIGINAL: A.Wang

If only I could turn the lock nuts! It's rusted solid on both pins! [:mad:] I tried to extend the pins a bit and see if that'd solve the problem...and promptly gave up when I started covering the floor with WD40!

Should I get the hatch pin replacement kit from my local OPC or would it be cheaper online?
Click to expand...

I may be giving you the wrong info here. I cannot remember now if you have to loosen a locknut or just turn the pin. My S2 is too iced up to open my hatch to check now I'm afraid.
I did make a post last year with pictures showing how to clean and adjust all these parts but I can't find it. .
I would give Exeter OPC a ring they are tremendously helpful there and would probably post parts tomorrow .
Alternatively have a look at Berlyn Services site. Bert is our tech advisor and very knowledgable chap.. I find his site a bit difficult to negotiate at times though
 
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