Rear suspension rot

[peanut]

ORIGINAL: James Ball

These photos and the amount of rust I am seeing on some 944s I am looking at (not that I am an expert in any way) is almost putting me off getting one. It feels like most 944s out there have only a year or two's more life in them before either needing this sort of work doing to them or scrapping. In this light, £5k+ purchase price for a nice S2 or Turbo seems like a lot.

Don't worry James there are still plenty of relatively rustfree cars out there at reasonable prices. My current 1989 S2 cost just under £4k two years ago. I've spent nothing on it save fuel pipe and tyres and there is only a small amount of rust in my cills so far

 

[pauljmcnulty]

These photos and the amount of rust I am seeing on some 944s I am looking at (not that I am an expert in any way) is almost putting me off getting one. It feels like most 944s out there have only a year or two's more life in them before either needing this sort of work doing to them or scrapping. In this light, £5k+ purchase price for a nice S2 or Turbo seems like a lot.

What are you comparing them to? I really can't think of another car from the era that costs so little to buy, delivers so much performance and is as reliable. Sure, they need bodywork. But, not any worse than other 20-year-old cars and a lot less than most.

If comparing it to a newer car, factor in the depreciation and it's not going to be any cheaper. The only way it doesn't pay to do this sort of work is if the car is a short-term prospect, spread over years it's not the end of the world.

 

[Super_Marv]

Out of interest Alasdair, what condition are the cills like towards the front of the car?

I know these cars are more prone towards rotting at the rear section of the cill, as your pictures show, but I was wondering what yours are like towards the front of the cills.

I recently put my hands down the cills on my car and armed with a digi camera, took some pictures. I recommend anyone with small enough hands (!) try the same thing too. (I can put the pictures up if anyone's interested in seeing them)

 

[sulzeruk]

Cills at the front are usually fine on Turbos and S2, the wing bottoms get all the damage! I think the corrosion is caused by moisture within the inner cill and also the small drain hole getting blocked at the back. The design is pretty poor, a splash plate could have been provided over the area to stop all the spray from the back wheel going everywhere. I don't think there was a great deal of underseal protection as well around that area which is the main culprit. The back of the arch where the join is usually fine on 99 percent of cars, it is always the front that has the biggest holes! There is always sweating on the join of the inner arch when you look through the small vented plastic cover hole in the door jamb! I will get more pics of cars as and when they are on the ramp to show different stages of rot and repair!
Alasdair

 

[Frenchy]

James,
The majority of 944 owners IMO never get underneath their cars and are not familiar with problem areas, generally they are very good the later Turbo and S2 models only suffer front wing rot because of a "crap" trap on the bottom of the front wings (Sill Extensions) the water drain inside the fuel filler area never gets cleaned out and water finds it's way into the OS sill= rust.
A little bit of maintenance and attention sorts this problem, rear suspension mounts and number plate light apertures just need a good covering of rust inhibitor or as prevoiously mentioned clag some old engine oil in there !
Go to a scrapyard and find the rustiest car you can, a million pounds says there ill be no rust on the steel where engine oil has leaked on to and coated it !
PS most people on here will keep on top of thier cars i am sure.

 

[Hilux]

Although if the area does need welding in the near future the waxoyl will need to be removed as it is flammable.

Yup, I had an issue with an A pillar chimney fire in my off road Suzuki SJ when welding the floorpan [8|] and in my trackday Golf Mk1 when welding in harness bolts to the inner cills [&:]

I always use my friendly exinguisher (below) and ensure a hole big enough for the nozzle is always present. They are re-fillable and pressurised with a home air compressor or foot pump. Simply insert nozzle and let her go [] (illegal in commercial premises these days but great for the shed or garage)

I`ve got some more (free to collectors only)

 

[JM1962]

If spraying waxoyl into your inner sills, make sure you don't block the drain holes.

Alasdair, you must be an extremely talented body repair man if you can repair the S2. I would be very interested to see pictures of your progress and wish you the best of luck.