Menu toggle

Removing Brake Calipers

Guest

Guest

New member
I'm trying to remove the front left brake caliper in order to replace the wheel bearing - however, I can't get the caliper mounting bolts to shift. They don't by any chance screw in the opposite direction do they? I have tried everything at my disposal to get them off, but they won't budge - any suggestions? This is so annoying as otherwise I'm going to have to take it to a garage to do a job that is otherwise nominally fairly straightforward.
Cheers,

Graham
 
No they're normal thread.
Had my passenger side front off this morning to try to cure a slight judder that's recently started.Turns out both screws holding the disc were loose and the inner pad was stuck firm.I'm going to give the drivers side a check too this afternoon.
The bolts are tight tho' - i had to use a couple of whacks with a mallet to assist as i couldn't get enough pressure on them with just my adjustable socket.
 
Some people seem to apply locktight to caliper bolts for some reason that completely and utterly bemuses me. It could be that. Recently I replaced the pads and discs all round on a friends 306GTI6 and all the bolts were locktighted. I have a two to three foot length of scaffolding tubing that comes in handy on occasions like this.
 
I took the car to a local tyre fitter who put the car up on a ramp, undid them (to get them started) did them up again, and after a careful drive home I was able to get them off with my socket set.
 
Some people seem to apply locktight to caliper bolts for some reason
Click to expand...

YUP

Locktite 242 every time. They get hot and cold and hot and cold etc etc and I never want them to come loose.

I may be wrong but if I`ve rebuilt the car (and I`ve built a few) and I`m carrying other people and therefore responsible for their well being then I`m afraid I`m a belts and braces man [8|] Loctite doesnt affect the torque figures either.

If I`m wrong then let me know.
 
After checking both my front calipers today I i'll be putting locktite on the two screws that hold the discs on this week - all 4 were loose causing judder/movement.I can't believe that only 2 half inch or so long screws is all that secures the disc (bar the actual caliper).They were only skimmed in march for the MOT too.
 

ORIGINAL: 944cabby

After checking both my front calipers today I i'll be putting locktite on the two screws that hold the discs on this week - all 4 were loose causing judder/movement.I can't believe that only 2 half inch or so long screws is all that secures the disc (bar the actual caliper).They were only skimmed in march for the MOT too.
Click to expand...

Is there not a small matter of 5 flaming great lug nuts??? The small screws only position the disc - they play virtually no part in securing it.

Regards

Dave
 
That's what I was going to say - I have run an S2 without the screws for a while as I forgot to buy them and changed the disks on a Bank Holiday weekend.
 
Well, I've managed to get the caliper off (basically, in the absence of an air gun or a 20" breaker bar, I used a bar from my socket set and kept on braying it until they started to shift!). Now my problem is, does anyone have any handy hints for getting the bearing races out? Clarks garage talks of tapping the bearing races out of the hub. Admittedly I've been using a flat-headed screwdriver, rather than a round tipped punch (since I don't have one) but tapping has produced no movement, neither has a prolonged period of belting either - any suggestions?
Cheers,

Graham
 
I think you may need to apply heat in that case.

If you're lucky, Jon Mitchell might see this thread and offer some professional advice.

Rick
 
If I were you I would still buy yourself a long breaker bar (30inch) I find it will always be handy for some other bolt or nut somewhere.
 
ORIGINAL: GCHinton

Well, I've managed to get the caliper off (basically, in the absence of an air gun or a 20" breaker bar, I used a bar from my socket set and kept on braying it until they started to shift!). Now my problem is, does anyone have any handy hints for getting the bearing races out? Clarks garage talks of tapping the bearing races out of the hub. Admittedly I've been using a flat-headed screwdriver, rather than a round tipped punch (since I don't have one) but tapping has produced no movement, neither has a prolonged period of belting either - any suggestions?
Cheers,

Graham
Click to expand...

Put it in the oven for about 30 minutes at what ever temp clarkes recommend, remember its F and most ovens are degrees C. Stand in a tinfoil lined tray to keep the ovens main user happy (or wait till they go out), then using thick gloves remove it and tap out the race. Reheat to install the new ones.
Tony
 
Surely thats only if you use 'self raising' bearings ? [:D]

Tony, Mags wants to know if you've got any other 944 recipies ?

[:D] [:D] [:D]

Rick.
 
ORIGINAL: 944Turbo

Put it in the oven for about 30 minutes at what ever temp clarkes recommend, remember its F and most ovens are degrees C. Stand in a tinfoil lined tray to keep the ovens main user happy (or wait till they go out), then using thick gloves remove it and tap out the race. Reheat to install the new ones.
Tony
Click to expand...
Now don't tell me - I think I know where the oven is - I think that it is in the same strange room (I think it may be called a 'kitchen') that the machine washer is kept and the tumble drier. However, as I understand it the machine washer isn't big enough to get any reasonable machines in, and also I don't have any tumbles that I need drying, so previously I haven't had too much interest in that room (except the beer drawer in the fridge).
Cheers,

Graham
 
ORIGINAL: 944cabby

After checking both my front calipers today I i'll be putting locktite on the two screws that hold the discs on this week - all 4 were loose causing judder/movement.I can't believe that only 2 half inch or so long screws is all that secures the disc (bar the actual caliper).They were only skimmed in march for the MOT too.
Click to expand...

DON'T DO IT!!! On a previous car I've been in the position where those screws have been either overtightened or blasted loctighted in and stripped the philips head. These screws are rarely made from a decent high strength steel and the head can easily be stripped as they are purely used to locate the disk when the wheel is off as other people have already said. I ended up having to drill off the countersunk head - a major pain in the butt.
 
I'd be very suprised if the two locating bolts being lose was causing judder unless it was their lose presence that was causing it. Quite a few cars don't do locating screws, and the discs are lose as soon as you remove the wheel nuts (Audi and VW spring to mind).

It's a pain without them though - the discs always seen to turn half a thredhole!
 
ORIGINAL: sawood12

ORIGINAL: 944cabby

After checking both my front calipers today I i'll be putting locktite on the two screws that hold the discs on this week - all 4 were loose causing judder/movement.I can't believe that only 2 half inch or so long screws is all that secures the disc (bar the actual caliper).They were only skimmed in march for the MOT too.
Click to expand...

DON'T DO IT!!! On a previous car I've been in the position where those screws have been either overtightened or blasted loctighted in and stripped the philips head. These screws are rarely made from a decent high strength steel and the head can easily be stripped as they are purely used to locate the disk when the wheel is off as other people have already said. I ended up having to drill off the countersunk head - a major pain in the butt.
Click to expand...
Well, had a couple of runs and the judder has gone so i'll leave well alone now.It was definately either the pad or the screws.I'll see if it returns then check them again otherwise it's another problem sorted.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members

Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions

Disclaimer

The opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of the Club, who shall have no liability in respect of them or the accuracy of the content. The Club assumes no responsibility for any effects arising from errors or omissions.

Porsche Club Great Britain gives no warranties, guarantees or assurances and makes no representations or recommendations regarding any goods or services advertised on this site. It is the responsibility of visitors to satisfy themselves that goods and/or services supplied by any advertiser are bona fide and in no instance can the Porsche Club Great Britain be held responsible.

When responding to advertisements please ensure that you satisfy yourself of any applicable call charges on numbers not prefixed by usual "landline" STD Codes. Information can be obtained from the operator or the white pages. Before giving out ANY information regarding cars, or any other items for sale, please satisfy yourself that any potential purchaser is bona fide.

Directors of the Board of Porsche Club GB, Club Office Staff, Register Secretaries and Regional Organisers are often requested by Club members to provide information on matters connected with their cars and other matters referred to in the Club Rules. Such information, advice and assistance provided by such persons is given in good faith and is based on the personal experience and knowledge of the individual concerned.

Neither Porsche Club GB, nor any of the aforementioned, shall be under any liability in respect of any such information, advice or assistance given to members. Members are advised to consult qualified specialists for information, advice and assistance on matters connected with their cars at all times.

Porsche
Lockton
Pirelli
Officially approved
Oracle Finance
WEX Esso
Collecting Cars
Archant Dialogue
Back
Top