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Removing Brake Calipers

My understanding is that the 2 screws are to hold the disc in position & that the disc is clamped between the wheel & hub via the wheel studs & nuts.
 
That is true and even if the screws came loose they could only unscrew half a mm or so as the alloy wheel hub would stop it from working itself any further out, therefore I can't see how they could cause vibration.
 
You need a good drift tool to knock the bearings out utilising a fairly large hammer don't be shy about how hard you hit it. also make sure you hammer all round the bearing so it comes out evenly, say every 90 deg or so. Stick the new bearings in the freezer then fit them after a while but to be fair they are an easy fit hot or cold.

The round tipped punch must have a flat surface and not be pointed, so that there is sufficient purchase on the bearing edge that overlaps the upright or hub carrier internal channel.

It really is a doddle to do (with the right tools)!

good luck

andy

 
I don't know if there was a problem with my hub or something, but the only way I could get the old races to shift was by heating the hub at 120°C for half an hour, or so, then using a newly-purchased flat-headed punch and belting them out. To fit the new ones in I thought that it would be a simple matter of freezing the new races and heating the hub and dropping them in - which I think is what Clark's states. However, as soon as the new cold races come into contact with the hot hub they heat up and expand and become stuck fast. So in the end I needed to use a punch and some force to get the new races in, as well as getting the old ones out. Mind you, after the oven had been used for repeatedly heating the hub the quiche we had next day for dinner tasted slightly odd! However, in the end the job has been completed and the bearing now runs quietly. Total time to complete approximately 5 hours, I guess.
Thanks all,

Graham
 
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