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Rust Proofing

lookingfora944

New member
Hello,

I intend to give my car a decent clean and wax this weekend and just wanted some tips on what I can do quickly and easily to give it some moderate rust protection for the next few months.
There is some rust already in the sills and slight bubbling is also visible from the outside. Nothing catastrophic mind.
Now I know that once it is there, it cant be stopped completely, but is there any tips for something I can do quickly over the weekend that will help until I have more time in the New Year?

Thanks

Mike
 
You can get things like dinitrol in a spray can which will penetrate and adsorb water and give it some rust protection.
 
Dinitrol is good, as is the Bilt Hamber sprayable wax.

DEFINITELY do it sooner rather than later. Better to stick some on in a big mess now and tidy it up in the summer than to wait ...


Oli.
 
Remove the black plastic vents in the door jam and squirt Dinitrol in the cills with an extension lance.
 
I used Dynax S50 on mine. Sprayed in through the plastic covers in the door jam. I then poked the hose in through the rear drainage hole in the bottom of the sill and gave it a good coating across the bottom followed by the other drainage holes further up (be sure not to block them though!)

I also had the carpet out at the time to pulled off the rubber bung on the inner sills and gave that a good coating inside too. There was only a tiny bit of rust on mine (not bad going for an 83) so hoping this will keep it at bay.
 
how many tins of the dynax will i need to do the sills? 1 for each sill?

http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=92

cheers
 
I did it with one and a bit but I also sprayed a bit into the sills in my other car so you could probably get it done with just one.
 
I brushed a mixture of sump oil and grease into my cills 2 years ago and it killed the rust dead. Like you I had slight bubbling externally and rust internally and there has been absolutly no change in the cills since as verified by photographs. [;)]
 
To cold surely for the wax to work. ISTR the dynax stuff requires 15 degree ambient temperature. This is a summer or springtime job doing it now is surely a horse and barn door job?
 

ORIGINAL: Neil Haughey
... it now is surely a horse and barn door job?
Quite how you'd use horses and barn doors to rustproof a 944 is a little beyond me, but if you want to demonstrate Neil then I'll happily turn up to watch ...


Oli.
 
lol,

I spent Friday morning cleaning and waxing the car and literally 5 mins after I finished the blizzard arrived in North London and now the car is under 4 inches of snow :(
 
OK I have ordered some Bilt-Hamber Hydrate 80 and some Dynax S50,

I know winter is already upon on, but I have to get it sorted before any rust gets worse and I will redo it in the spring anyway. I figured I would give the car and underside a thorough clean and degreasing. I will then apply the hydrate 80 to the underside of the sills, the wheel arches, the inner sills and into the air vents. Then do the same with the s50 wax.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan to halt the rust until the weather improves and I can get a proper look at it?



 
It does but ISTR the instructions with the dynax cavity wax stuff says something like 12 or 15 degrees minimum which means it will be spring time by the time you can spray it unless you have a heated garage or workshop you can use.
 
If you don't have a heated garage, what would be better than nothing is getting a fan heater blowing at the sill for half an hour beforehand, and maybe playing a hair dryer over the bits you are concerned about before you apply the stuff. Apart from anything else it should help to drive out any lingering moisture before you spray.
 
No heated garage, but yes a long extension lead, hairdryers and fan heaters. It has to be better than nothing and I will repeat it on the first warm spring day.
My neighbours already think I am a little odd, so me out there with a hairdryer on Boxing morning will probably not surprise them :)
 

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