Sill Sealing Technique

[robwright]

Was poking round under the carpet today with a view to getting some product inside my sills. This doesn't look very easy though given the size of the inspection holes. Was wondering what techniques others used to do it? Is it a seat and carpets out job or what?

 

[xenon]

Just take the door jamb vent out and pour / squirt loads of waxoyl down there until it floods out of the drainage holes.

Do it on your neighbour's driveway... [8D]

 

[robwright]

Yes mate have done the rear quarter from the vent hole but I don't see how from there I can get it into the length of the sills or how I can get it through the sill inspection holes and effectively cover the inside.

 

[geoffbateman]

I use a shutz gun with an extension pipe on it. You can poke the pipe down the inspection hole pointing forward and give it a good blast.

 

[Alexw]

I did similar as above, only I used Bilt Hamber Dynax S50. Each comes with a pipe for accessing hard to reach areas, so I bought 2 and connected the 2 pipes together and it reaches the length of the sills from the vent hole!

 

[Frenchy]

Take the rear wheel off and you will see a rubber grommet in the rear wheel arch leading in to the sill area this will allow you to get an extension tube up there right into the sill area.

 

[pauljmcnulty]

Go through here. It's easy. [8|]

 

[bluedexter]

I used the same method when I did my sills last year and thought it successful. However I had a look again today using a mobile phone camera and was disappointed with the result. IIRC the brass jet on the end of the pipe has only 2 holes and I think that you don't apply as much as you think you are.

However, I am chuffed to see that the condition of the cills appears to be good

 

[robwright]

Already been there mate. That's how I have done the rear quarter and the rear of the sill [] After reading the previous posts I have just invested in this from ebay:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360345393048&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:GB:1123

Comes with an extension tube, which I think I will extend some more and use Frenchy's method [] thanks guys.

 

[Frenchy]

Rob,
Going to get myself one of those guns...................a bargain !

 

[robwright]

That's exactly what I thought mate. At that price probably not the best quality but hey how often are you going to use it? I figured I could extend the range of the pipe with a length of copper tubing and some jubilee clips.

 

[sawood12]

What I was going to do before someone bumped me from behind so I got the body shop to do it while it was in for repair, was to take some plastic tubing that is slightly stiff, and block the end and cut small holes around the circumference with a small 2mm drill or something around the top 1 inch or so of the tip. Then slide it up each of the drainage slots that run along the length of the sill spray waxoil diluted with some solvent. Hopefully the waxoil would have sprayed out in a 360 degree pattern out of the end of the tube and with a bit of waggling would have hopefully given a good and complete coverage. Then just work your way down the length of the sill.

I have no idea how well it would have worked, but seemed like the best way to get a good 360 degree spray pattern from a small diameter tube.

A classic method employed by classic car owners is to block off all the drainage holes and fill the sill with used engine oil (I guess a thicker oil is used in old cars), block up the sill and take the car for a vigorous drive to ensure the oil swilled around the cavity and coated all the internal surfaces, before draining it out and leaving behind a nice coating of oil behind.

Alternatively you could route the exhaust pipe through the sill so the heat from it will keep the cavity nice and dry!

 

[robwright]

At the price I am paying for that gun Scott I could probably modify it in such a way without worrying too much.

 

[colin944]

I would use the shutz gun method for the area between the outer sill and the intermediate panel.And the pull out the seats and go through inspection holes in sill just infront of Handbrake and put shutz gun with pipe in there to catch area between inner sill and the intemediate panel.
P.s intermediate panel is the one with the holes in that sits between inner and outer sills.[]

 

[geoffbateman]

I removed the brass nozzle from the end of the tube on mine as I found that at the 4 bar recommended spray pressure ( I was using a Dinitrol product) the restriction of the nozzle reduced the volume so much that only a little wax was coming out. I removed their tube, fitted some nylon pneumatic pipe and found that when i tried it the stuff sprayed out pretty well from the end without a nozzle. I wiggled the tube about a bit as I was doing it as well just to make sure. So far all seems well, I did it 2 years ago and will probably do it again this summer. I know this is probably obvious and I apologise if stating the obvious, but I let the tin of wax stand in a bowl of very hot water for 30 minutes before use and gave it a good shake before using it. This thins it down well and makes it run a lot better. Also if doing it at this time of year it pays, I think, to heat the area up a little as well to avoid the wax "freezing" as soon as it hits the panel. I use a combination of a heat gun (carefully used to blow warm air in the access hole) and a cheap halogen heater (garden centre) to warm up the outside.

 

[Hilux]

I removed the brass nozzle from the end of the tube on mine as I found that at the 4 bar recommended spray pressure ( I was using a Dinitrol product) the restriction of the nozzle reduced the volume so much that only a little wax was coming out. I removed their tube, fitted some nylon pneumatic pipe and found that when I tried it the stuff sprayed out pretty well from the end without a nozzle.

It was 1) cold or 2) the pressure wasnt enough to atomise it

Shutz/Waxoyl need at least 6 bar

 

[George Elliott]

There are two cavities in the sill of a 944. The comments above refer to the outer side of the main vertical panel which the outer sill fits to. There is another panel (which the handbrake recess is pressed into) which creates an inner cavity. The main vertical panel has holes in it, so the two cavities are connected to a degree. If you look into the B Post vent grille hole, you only see the outer cavity. If you remove the plastic strip along the door opening and the carpet in the front and rear footwells, there are (about 40mm dia) grommets which provide access to the inner sill. The famous sill rot in a 944 starts at the base of the 2 cavities where the three flanges meet and the (horizontal) floor panel is attached.
A very thin viscosity wax/oil would be needed to penetrate all this fabrication if it was applied from the b-post vent.
It is possible to pop out the grommets and apply oil through the holes into the inner cavity.
The other thing to consider is a thick wax may cause pools of water in the sill cavities.
George
944t

 

[colin944]

Well said George. That's what I was trying to say but you put it so much better than me.

 

[peanut]

ORIGINAL: Frenchy

Take the rear wheel off and you will see a rubber grommet in the rear wheel arch leading in to the sill area this will allow you to get an extension tube up there right into the sill area.

nice tip Frenchy . You learn something new every day.[]

I'll be looking at mine this W/E [&o] the only problem with S2 or Turbo is the plastic strips bolted to the underside of the sills which trap a lot of moisure . I dread trying to remove those this Summer

 

[colin944]

They are really easy to get off as they are held on with plastic nuts 10 ml if I remember right. You can get the nuts from VW as they use them alot and they are cheaper.The hard bit is putting the covers back on as you will find that a few of the bolts will come away as you remove the cover.I stuck mine back on with sikaflex but that made it really hard when I removed them again.