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Sill Sealing Technique

ORIGINAL: colin944

They are really easy to get off as they are held on with plastic nuts 10 ml if I remember right. You can get the nuts from VW as they use them alot and they are cheaper.The hard bit is putting the covers back on as you will find that a few of the bolts will come away as you remove the cover.I stuck mine back on with sikaflex but that made it really hard when I removed them again.

thanks for that tip Colin. Its a job I have been dreading. They are always wet or damp for days after it has rained. i dread to think what I will find under there. I may well leave them off and store the strips so that the wing and cill bottoms get a chance to dry out
 
ORIGINAL: sawood12

What I was going to do before someone bumped me from behind so I got the body shop to do it while it was in for repair, was to take some plastic tubing that is slightly stiff, and block the end and cut small holes around the circumference with a small 2mm drill or something around the top 1 inch or so of the tip. Then slide it up each of the drainage slots that run along the length of the sill spray waxoil diluted with some solvent. Hopefully the waxoil would have sprayed out in a 360 degree pattern out of the end of the tube and with a bit of waggling would have hopefully given a good and complete coverage. Then just work your way down the length of the sill.

I have no idea how well it would have worked, but seemed like the best way to get a good 360 degree spray pattern from a small diameter tube.

Good to know ;)
 

ORIGINAL: peanut
I may well leave them off and store the strips so that the wing and cill bottoms get a chance to dry out
I'm coming to the conclusion that this is the sensible option for any S2 or turbo owner who drives their car in anything other than brilliant sunshine and wants to protect it against rust. I took mine off a couple of years ago and haven't put them back on.

Same goes for the short black plastic trims that go underneath the front wings. They are a water trap. Best solution? Don't put them on.

Purists will tell me that the car doesn't look complete with all these trims missing, or that it is unstable at a bazillion miles an hour on a circuit. But that's their concern, not mine.


Oli.
 
yes it makes sense to leave them off if you haven't got a heated garage or don't do regular preventive maintenance as I don't .

I'd sooner have some cills and wings in 5 years time than a bit of plastic strip .[;)]

The only unstable bits of our cars Oli, are the bits behind the wheel .....[:D]
 
I think the under-sill trim is a red herring. The sills corrode from the inside out, not the outside in, and non-turbo/S2's also suffer, so the corrosion can't be due to crud and moisture that collects on these trims - though it can't hurt to clean out any crud every year or so to ensure good ventilation. I think they are a factor with the wings though.

Air at the same temp as the cabin circulates through the door, though the vent you find to the rear of the door, through the sill and out of the drainage slots. This is why my personal theory is that garage queens and cars that are not used much suffer worse - or fare no better. If you just leave the car in a garage then any moisture in the air or condensation will collect and still cause the corrosion (unless of course you have a sealed and temp and humidity controlled garage - and that is just silly unless you've got a rare Ferrari or something like that) . At least if you drive the car regularly the circulatory airflow through the sill dries out the sill. In fact the under sill trims on turbo's and S2's might actually act to deflect direct impingement of water thrown up from the front wheels as they curl round to obscure the holes. I'd be interested to see a photo down the sill immediately after a long drive in the wet - i'd be willing to bet that they remain pretty dry.

I think the corrosion is basically the fact that after 15 - 20yrs or so you are simply running upto this issue - no Steel structure is indefinitely corrosion proof - they all need regular maintenance like fresh applications of Waxoyl/Dinitrol
 

ORIGINAL: sawood12
I think the under-sill trim is a red herring. The sills corrode from the inside out, not the outside in, and non-turbo/S2's also suffer, so the corrosion can't be due to crud and moisture that collects on these trims - though it can't hurt to clean out any crud every year or so to ensure good ventilation. I think they are a factor with the wings though.
I agree to a point. The wing trims are the main culprits, but the sill trims are not friendly to paintwork. They will trap moisture against the metalwork, and they will move against it and rub the paint off in small patches. Neither of them are desirable, and I'm happy to forgo both.

(Have to say tho' Rob, binning them is a bit extreme! I'm keeping mine in the basement for the next owner of the car!)


Oli.
 
Oli mine were truly awful. I wouldn't have refitted them to mine or any other car [:D] Then I realised it looked as good if not better without.
 
I know my sills had fluff and dust in the bottom of them which given the airflow path isn't suprising this will trap moisture. there is also some trapped between the external plastic and paint which probably means they rust from the outside in along the join as well as the inside out. The cabs have lots more metal in the sills - keep meaning to get a photo and post it.

Tony
 

ORIGINAL: robwright

Oli mine were truly awful.  I wouldn't have refitted them to mine or any other car [:D]  Then I realised it looked as good if not better without.

Yes, but these things cost a fortune new so irrespective of the condition someone would have paid silly money on Ebay for them.
 
Hinesight is a wonderful thing Scott. I had only had the car about a week and knew very little about it other than how cack the side skirts looked [:D]
 
Rob,
they were one of the performance features which the 80's salesman used to justify the cost of the 944 turbo. They would have been wind tunnel tested along with the rear valance and smoother new front to reduce drag and enable the 160+mph performance. There would have been some geezer with braces and a big mobile who believed every word of it at the time.

I think they finish the lower edge of the sill neatly as the sill is a bit straight and flat, and I think Scott is right when he says they don't really cause corrosion, especially the rear section. The front wing trim at the front may be more of an issue.

George
944T

 
Looks like they made them better in the 'old days'?

This from a 1979 924 . . .[:)] after nearly 32 years . . . even I'm impressed.



97FF3D9EE8FA4E099CD1EDCFB9312872.jpg
 
When mine were replaced a few years ago the bodyshop man said it was the welding of the bolt that supports the plastic to the sill that breaks down the galvanising. Lux's and 924s don't have these bolts welded on so their galvanising is not damaged at the factory.
 
Later lux's have the bolts but no trims (except the wings) which may go some way to explain why my late lux had bad sills but the early car had none at all.
 

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