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Slightly thicker oil for a high mileage 951 ?
- Thread starter ukmastiff
- Start date
ukmastiff
New member
I think he meant thicker than the norm so to speek , and just wanted to know if anyone else had taken that sort of step . As per my oil section post i dont actually have any way of knowing what oil is in the car. I have only had the car 2 weeks so havnt got any real oil usage measure to give you im afraid. I dont think i've ever had car that actually used a real ammount of oil TBH as this is my 1st 'classic' so didnt realise to give you that info sorry.
If it helps , I dont think she's burning any real great ammount and she runs beautifully but she has a very minor oil leak which is soon to be fixed and that burns on the manifold it doent even mark the floor. If I need to measure my oil use over time to give you guys the best info to go on I will of course ?.
While I'm here save an extra post , what type of oil filter wrench do folk recommend is the cup type ok , it looks a bit tight round the oil filter to get one of those strap type things in and yes im an oil change newbie
Cheers Mas
pauljmcnulty
Active member
Fat Albert
New member
ORIGINAL: ukmastiff
If it helps , I dont think she's burning any real great ammount and she runs beautifully but she has a very minor oil leak which is soon to be fixed and that burns on the manifold it doent even mark the floor.
My High mileage 951 has 3 minor leaks, one of which burns on the manifold as the car warms up (with a lovely puff of smoke from under the bonnet at the first junction you stop at....don't be alarmed dear!)
I run mine on the lower grade Shell Helix which is 10w40 as I recall
Copperman05
New member
There have been many discussions on this forum regarding oil and you will find opinions vary.
You may find this useful. http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
Edd
sawood12
New member
Unless you use your car for any purpose other than 'normal' use, e.g. if you track the car alot or race it, using it in extreme temperatures etc. then you should use the oil grade recommended by Porsche. If you use the Porsche recommended grade of oil and you are having problems like excessive oil consumption or struggling to get pressure then that is indicative of some other potential issue or problem with your car and using thicker and thicker oils will just mask the problem. One of the problems of using an oil which is too thick is that the flow of oil over the moving parts are the engine is reduced thereby reducing the cooling capacity of the oil, and oil is there just as much to cool as it is to lubricate.
ukmastiff
New member
It looks like a good quality 10w40 is the order of the day. Probably going to a seriously expensive one might be a bit silly on my car but defo not a cheepo one either.
I found it all Interesting anyway and thanks for all the input. Now I just have to get up the bottle to do my first ever car engine change
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Mas
Copperman05
New member
ORIGINAL: ukmastiff
Well you have to ask , I seem to be getting a 'minor' hammering for this question hehehe
It looks like a good quality 10w40 is the order of the day. Probably going to a seriously expensive one might be a bit silly on my car but defo not a cheepo one either.
Mas
I agree with Scott on oil it seems.
There is a common misconception regarding oil, that good oil is expensive, this is not true. If a top-notch quality oil, like a proper ester based synthetic oil is £15 (per 5l) more than the usual synth does that make it expensive? I bet you don't even think twice about putting another £15 worth of petrol in the tank, why should it be any different with oil? At least with oil its only once a year or so, seems hardly expensive to me for far superior performance.
Some would say its better to change the oil regularly with a good quality semi than to leave long times between changes with a better oil, and I would agree, but I think its even better to change regularly with a really good quality oil and have some decent insurance for the long term longevity of your engine.
Edd
ukmastiff
New member
** I promise I will do what im told re the 'type ' of oil you win you win *** [
Mas
xenon
New member
I removed my S2 filter with a standard chain wrench but a cup one would be easier. Because the filter is upside down it's hard not to spill a bit of oil so a tarp on the floor is a good idea.
edh
New member
Leave the oil to drain for a while - it's suprising how much keeps coming out after you think it's all done.
The filter is best removed with something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Universal-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000M96RVA
As it's upside down, you will drop oil down the side of your engine - some people stuff a load of rags round it to try & catch everything.
If you're feeling brave you could also drain the oil from the cooler - you need to remove the "batwing" to get at the cooler, and the connections are very tight, so I'd suggest that's left for now. You'll still have a small aount of old oil in the cooler, which will start to mix as soon as you start up the engine again.
robwright
New member
Fat Albert
New member
(Rob, I see you are just up the road from me, I am in Warboys)
Mike
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