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Steering Shudder 65mph to 80mph

Waylander said:
There is quite a few places that can get that back in shape, unless it's magnesium?
The other option is to borrow some wheels, just fronts, and see if that really is your problem


Cast Magnesium alloy has a comparable strength to cast aluminium and can be reshaped dependant on where the distortion is (Front or back)
Cast Aluminium wheels tend to fracture and crack under impacts & load (potholes etc..) compared to magnesium alloy which is 1.5 times less dense than aluminium
and more prone to bending hence reshaping forged aluminium wheels especially on the front face / lip is very difficult even with hydraulic equipment.


R
 
scam75 said:
there is still a remnant of wobble in the same speed range. It has to be tyres or more likely the front rim with the dink on it. The dink is on the outside lip, its maybe about an inch and a half long and in the middle of must be about 3mm out of shape. It is bent but not broken and the wheel does balance ok,
Cheers, Stuart


This will be the vibration, 3mm a large amount of distortion I'm surprised it's not leaking. A dink on the outside (front face?) is where all the strength is hence with a forged rimn this will be very difficult
to straighten. I'm guessing it shakes between 60-70mph? It could also be a tyre out of round as it will over time be wearing irregular due to the oscillations / vibrations.
Those Toyo T1-R's ? have a soft sidewall and soft tread blocks (Hence dire for trackdays even though their marketing indicates the opposite!) and these can often go out of shape especially if you don't stick on the higher side of the recommended tyre pressures.

R
 
The rim is not leaking. I was running them at 32psi but put up to 36psi a few weeks ago. The tyres are 3 years old now I noticed and have plenty tread. I will replace them this year at some point with better rubber. I am going to a friend's house tomorrow to double check the wheel balances and also to try his front rims and tyres for a fact find.
 
Further update today. Both front wheels were out of balance. 15/15 one side, 15/5 the other. Got them balanced up and it is better but not cured. Although the rim has damage I'm starting to think tyres. The wobble can go away completely at times then re-appear, possibly surface dependant and the tyre reacting differently? If the rim was to blame I guess this would be constant and not intermittent? Today after the balance it's probably evident 70% of the time to varying degrees and 30% of the time it vanishes?

Tyres or rim?

Stuart
 
scam75 said:
Further update today. Both front wheels were out of balance. 15/15 one side, 15/5 the other. Got them balanced up and it is better but not cured. Although the rim has damage I'm starting to think tyres. The wobble can go away completely at times then re-appear, possibly surface dependant and the tyre reacting differently? If the rim was to blame I guess this would be constant and not intermittent? Today after the balance it's probably evident 70% of the time to varying degrees and 30% of the time it vanishes?

Tyres or rim?

Stuart


Did you visually see the wheels being spun up on the balancer? if so were the tyres wobbling up and down and / or side to side? or did the balancer have a cover on it ?
Have you got a heavier Steel locking wheel nut and 4 Aluminium nuts?
Have you checked the rears? out of balance / bent / out of shape tyres can all give you a vibration through the steering wheel....

I thought you were trying another pair of fronts ?

R

 
Borrow some rims, if cured it’s only going to be the black bits or the silver bits

if the balance did not sort it out, then you have no other choice, or get them balanced the old fashioned way on the car
 
Yeah that was the plan today but ran out of time at my mates place. Took the wheels off to check balance, sorted that, back on, clink clink clink, weights fouling on calipers. So off again and rebalanced with the weights more inboard, bit fiddly but they balanced up. Back on, quick test drive, no clinking, better but not cured. With my car being so low was not sure his 17's would clear the arches, probably be ok and will try it another day. Tyres will need replaced in next 12 months so going to buy different brand anyway and if that doesn't cure it its definitely silver bits to blame! Unfortunately single CS rims are rocking horse poo. Will look out for a spare set of wheels and tyres, turbo D90's or cups probably. Spend spend spend!

Stuart
 
So my spare set of 18’s won’t be much help then

16/17 the rolling radius should be the same must be a bit wider or the offset difference that will hit the arches

i was thinking that a local owner to you might pop up for a temp wheel swap
 
Why's the caliper hitting the stick on weights? 16" are they bigger calipers?

If the car's lowered a lot then the wishbone balljoint will wear far quicker (adverse angle) and it could be this also....

R
 
I was at my most local owner yesterday 50 miles away! His 17's are bolted onto his lowered car but we ran out of time to have a 2nd lowered car jacked up for a swap over. I'll get back over in the next few weeks. If there is anybody within 50 miles of Glasgow with a pair of fronts lying about or happy enough to remove theirs I'd be delighted to hear from them!

Stuart
 
Your spare 18's may well help but the 500 miles between us is an issue Martin!

Stuart

 
yes that is a bit of an issue, I must get these split rims on ebay, just want my money back on them, but they do look good on the car, as per the avatar


 

Just a passing interesting in your ongoing woes Stuart.

Firstly, if you can find a decent wheel refurbisher local to you they should - by judicious use of hydraulic ram and welding rod! - be able to correct any problem with the wheel. They're a long way from you but someone like Pristine Wheels in MK [ http://pristinealloywheels.co.uk/ ] may be able to advise.

Secondly, on the balancing front it may be that a proper road force balance could help http://www.balancemycar.co.uk/wheel-balancing-all-you-need-to-know/
if you can locate a tyre shop with the appropriate Hunter balancer. One reason why the problem sometimes comes and goes could be due to a phasing effect of the multiple tyre forces involved between two or more wheels.

All just my tuppence-worth of course, but food for thought and hope you get it sorted.

Jeff


 
Thanks Jeff. Will do some research. I've found a place a few miles away, Autotec in Greenock. They have hunter equipment and do alloy wheel repairs. Might be a one stop solution.

Stuart
 
So I went to Autotec today. A road force balance showed both front tyres out of shape, one worse than the other. They had a set of middle of the road tyres on the shelf so I got them to fit them and then complete the road force balance on all 4 corners. All 4 corners are now in spec and the shudder is gone. Whilst not perfect the dinked front rim has balanced up properly. £60 for the 4 wheel service plus 2 new tyres. Will get some better quality front tyres at some point now I know the wheels whilst not perfect, are passable and can be set up properly and not shudder. Would still like another straight front rim at some point as the other 3 are perfect so will keep an eye out for one.

I strongly recommend a road force balance for anybody experiencing similar issues.

Stuart
 
scam75 said:
So I went to Autotec today. A road force balance showed both front tyres out of shape, one worse than the other.

I strongly recommend a road force balance for anybody experiencing similar issues.

Stuart


Or just bin the Toyos.
 

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