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Steve Wong ECU Chips

Jamie Summers

PCGB Member
Member
Thought I'd start off a new thread following on from the 'performance mods' thread, as the Steve W chips have now arrived ! I just met Richard and got mine (thanks once again for sorting it all out mate !), despite the USPS's best efforts to make things difficult for us.

I'll be putting the chip in this evening and have a couple of long-ish varied drives to do over the weekend so will report back on Monday with my verdict.

In the meantime, in the name of entertainment (and a cautionary tale) I thought I'd share with you the nightmare I had getting the ECU out of my car in order to replace the chip.

Removal should be easy enough in theory, it is situated under the passenger's seat (driver's in my case) and held in place by four 10mm nuts. If you raise the seat to full height and put it right to the back of the slider you can just access the nuts provided you have a deep 10mm socket - I thought I did but haven't ! I tried every combination of sockets, extensions, universal joints, pliers etc I could think of. Eventually I managed to get the front nuts off by using the open ended 10mm spanner in the Porsche tool kit. I should add I was trying to do all of this dangling half in the car half on the pavement in the pitch dark with a mini-maglite (from my keyring, and with a duff battery) between my teeth ! I was able to reach the rear nuts by pushing the seat right forward and climbing into the back. The cavity under the seat squab gave me enough clearance so that I could get a 10mm socket and ratchet extension on to them.

With the nuts off the fun really began. Over time the steel stud, washer and nut had reacted with the aluminium base plate of the ECU to corrode it firmly in place. No amount of tuggling or wiggling would free it. I had to resort to brute force and the use of yet more inappropriate tools. I managed to wedge a flathead screwdriver under the edge of the base plate, using it and the end of my torque wrench (only heavy thing to hand !) as a hammer and chisel. I then just levered the thing up until the washers literally popped off. In the process I've managed to bend the edges of the base plate a bit. I just hope I've not damaged the components inside !

Anyway the ECU is now in bits on my kitchen table awaiting reassembly with the new chip, which I think should be rather easier ! the moral of the lesson is that a job is much easier if you have the correct tools. What should have taken me about 15 minutes ended up taking about an hour and a half and a lot of swearing ! Richard and Anil (and anyone else for that matter), don't even start this unless you have a deep 10mm socket and 1/4 inch drive ratchet - it is really fiddly to get at.

I hope it's all been worthwhile (I have a strong suspicion it will have been judging by the positive reports I've seen elsewhere). I will report back ........................

Jamie
 
Sounds like you had fun and games!

I'm sure you have done this but make sure you take electro static protection (ESP) when installing new chips. Don't want to toast them or damage the ECU like I've seen people do before on other cars.

Looking forwards to your feedback.
 
I find you dont need a deep socket. A normal one will do but I do use a small uv joint on my small socket wrench to get on the nuts. The issue is you need about an 1.5 inches of reach to get on the nut but anymore than two inches gives you clearence problems under the seat so any standard socket with an extension of about an inch will do. It is fiddly and it took me a while the first time but now its quite easy. My unit wasn't seized so if the interior has got wet at some point then this could have cause Jamie's problem.

The only thing I would add is that you should make sure you get the chip in the correct way. I think Steve's instructions show this but you can get it wrong as the eprom seats the other way round from the chips next to it. There will be a nick on one end of the eprom. If you look at the socket it plugs into there is a nick on one end of it as well. The two nicks should align. Make sure that all the legs of the chip seat correctly. It can be easy to bend a leg without realising.

If anyone wants this done but is a bit wary (it's really not that bad) is welcome to come to Milton Keynes and I'll do it for you. It should take about half an hour max (as long as its not seized in).

I should say if you do want me to do it its at your own risk, I accept no reponsibility for any damage to you, your car, your dme or your chip, blah, blah, blah... (it will be free though [:D]).

Cheers

Andy
 
Jamie - will be very interested in your thoughts once the new chip is in, as I have been thinking about re-chipping my car, and had recently got a quote from Wayne Scholfield for an ECM re-map @ £100-£150 + £150 for dyno time. Was also thinking of a K&N filter, but the historical invoices show one purchased 6 years ago, but have no way of knowing if it is still fitted - any ideas? Also any views on whether there is any noticeable increase in power with the K&N
 
Hi Steve,

There is no increase in power from using a K&N element to replace the paper element. Try a search on Pelican - it has been discussed many, many times. There is also some suggestion that they allow more dirt into the engine thereby accelerating wear.

A cone filter will sound nice, but again no extra horsies.

Richard

PS - still haven't fitted my chip. Currently dodging the SWMBO but about to be assigned chores and errands so finding spare time today is looking grim [:(]
 
Phil,

She Who Must Be Obeyed (I guess !!!!)

I'll get round to posting something sensible about the chips later on - but in short I'm pretty pleased with it so far, but need to try different types of roads / tracks / driving conditions before I'll be able to tell just how good it is.
 
Yes..I'm afraid most of us are subject to the rules and regulatrions of SWMBO...personally I'm only allowed to play with the 911, once my Honey Doos are finished![:(]
 
Arrrgh, yes.... SWMBO !! I've been trying to get the 911 out of the garage since November but SWMBO says I've got to decorate the house first. You lads really do get away with things lightly !
 
Dudes,
Why don't you just take the seat out? Its a piece of pis to remove - 4 x screws and undo the power lead.[;)]
Be interested to hear the results.
Peter.
 
Peter,
I tried to take the seat out, but not only did I have the wrong type of socket for the ECU nuts I didn't have a big enough allen key to remove the seats - I agree though it would have made life a lot easier !

Apologies for the lack of an update on the chip's performance, the car's been at Chelsea Carrera all week for a service and a few other bits and pieces. With any luck I'll get some miles under my belt this weekend and report back.

My initial reaction on a couple of drives last weekend (town and motorway) was that the car definitely seemed to be much smoother, with none of the jerkiness you sometimes get in traffic if your left and right feet aren't perfectly co-ordinated. It certainly pulls more strongly through the gears, with pick up from lower revs much improved. Not really been able to tell whether there's anything extra at the top of the rev range (red line increased to 6840 though- same as 3.2 Clubsport), but that's not really the point. The real benefit seems to be in the overall driveability, which in turn I can imagine might reflect in improved fuel economy over time - a useful bonus.

Has the chip made a noticeable difference ? At this early stage I would say a definite yes. Is it worth the expense ? Well you tell me what else you can do to a 3.2 for £127 ?????????? Go and buy one, if you don't like it Steve will give you your money back and you can put the stock chip back in, what have you got to lose ?

Jamie
 
Jamie,
Sounds good !!!!!
A rolling road test would be really good; with old chip and new chip - back to back.
Keep us informed.
Peter[:)]
 
I finally managed to fit my Steve W chip over the weekend without any problems.
I have to agree with a lot of what Jamie has already stated above, regarding the smoothness of the engine, and its willingness to pull from low revs. It just generally feels nicer to drive as the off throttle jerkiness has been removed. Another benefit I noticed is that the revs do not fall as quickly between gear changes, which helps, as my gearbox isn't the quickest shifting G50 out there.

One thing I did find interesting was that my DME part number is labelled 911.618.111.19, which according to Steve W's instructions state is a DME designed for cars with inferior fuel. My fuel quality switch was set to 5 i.e -3 degrees ignition retard. Apparently, this setting was determined by option code M240, but I could not find this option code on the sticker under the bonnet or the service book...Hmmmm.

Anyway, see the chart Steve Darnell had posted on a previous topic regarding the fuel quality switch, below :

Switch pos/ Fuel / Ignition

1 0 0 stock setting
2 +3% 0
3 +6% 0
4 -3% 0
5 0 -3deg
6 +3% -3deg
7 +6% -3deg
8 -3% -3deg

After I had installed the chip, I reset this switch to position 1 (the full anti-clockwise position).

I assume that any car that runs regularly on 97RON or 98RON Optimax should also have this switch set to position 1. Is this correct? If so, it may be worth checking your own DME/settings.

All in all, I'm very pleased the chip and it does everything that Steve W said it would for a very reasonable price.

I agree that a before and after rolling road session would be interesting. Maybe we should get Simon to arrange another day out at JZ Machtech this summer !

Cheers

Anil
 
I've probably missed something here, but where do you get these lovelly chips, and is there a nice man who fits them if you're not that way inclined.
 
Iain,
I believe these can be ordered directly on-line from http://www.911chips.com

Fitting seems to be a relatively (note I did say relatively) simple process, the problems seems to be getting to the DME in the first place.

What I'm not sure of is for a 87 model do I need the 24 or 28 pin chip, can anyone help or do I need to have a look at my current chip to determine

Regards
 
I think (stand to be corrected) without checking that '87 was the crossover year ??? ie. some 24 pin and some 28 pin. Easiest way to be sure is to take the thing out and have a look. It's really not all that difficult despite my adventures above !

You can order the chips direct from the website (as above) Steve's customer service really is something special (he helped us out of a hole with the postal system). If you can club together with a few people the saving is worthwhile and especially so if you can sneak the package in under the customs radar !!!!! Alternatively Pelican Parts (Google them !) in the US are about to start stocking Steve's 'off the shelf' chips, but if yuo want something a bit more exotic then go via the 911chips.com website.

Go ahead and buy one, with the weakness of the US$ they really are a bargain at the minute.

Jamie
 
Great thread on Steves chips, I contacted Steve Wong a while ago about UK distribution andmay see if he is interested in working with me again.

Re rolling road and a day out I am in discusions with JZ Machtech and Colin Belton at 9M
about meetings this spring and hope to post dates soon.

Best Regards Simon
 
Maybe I'm being stupid here, but looking at the site it seems that you could get the chip set for ordinary unleaded fuel and save yourself a load of money on fuel costs! Or would that impact on performance?
 
Iain,
You have a point I suppose, but with good quality 98 octane fuel easily available in this country it seems to be worthwhile trying to extract the extra performance that it will allow - a 98 octane chip with increased rev limit is no more expensive. If we were obsessed with fuel economy we wouldn't be driving Porsches would we [;)]

Jamie
 
Er, so it would impact on performance.

I'm actually thinking of putting a 1.1 Fiesta engine in mine as it's only the looks I'm after. Does anyone know if they fit.
 

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