Switch illumination
- Thread starter xenon
- Start date
xenon
New member
Fen - you're absolutely right - xenons do not like being switched on and off and moveable shield bulbs (via solenoid) are available. I have had problems with the solenoids sticking though.
With the 944 having retractable headlights, or more accurately, driving lights that flash if you want to flash someone, I decided a dual tube might be better. The light output is very good but if you have been travelling on dipped and then switch to main, it takes a few seconds for them to fully warm up and get maximum light output, but the strike is immediate. Six of one and half a dozen....
With the 944 having retractable headlights, or more accurately, driving lights that flash if you want to flash someone, I decided a dual tube might be better. The light output is very good but if you have been travelling on dipped and then switch to main, it takes a few seconds for them to fully warm up and get maximum light output, but the strike is immediate. Six of one and half a dozen....
I have a bit of an issue with over bright headlamps.
My Iceshark conversion allows me to run 100w lamps all night long, and, with modified wiring, ensures I get the full 100w out of them.....But....I run standard wattage bulbs. Why? Because, if I had an accident at night, and someone coming the other way claimed he had been dazzled by my lights, I have every confidence my insurers would take a step back wards with such velocity as would render them a blur to the naked eye.
I further suggest over bright lights are counter productive. One of the few advantages of night driving on unlit roads is you can see the headlights of a car about to come around a corner......not if you have strapped a pair of small Suns to the front of your car you can't.
Additionally, the glare from reflective signs can reduce your night vision to a point of making the increased brightness useless.
On the whole modern projector lamps aren't an issue because the reflectors and lenses are designed to work with the lamp and avoid glare. Unfortunately our 20 year old headlamps don't have that level of control and, as a result can be a real distraction to other road users.
As you have probably gathered, over bright lights are something of a pet hate of mine and IMHO the sooner they include a test for lumens within the MOT the better.
My Iceshark conversion allows me to run 100w lamps all night long, and, with modified wiring, ensures I get the full 100w out of them.....But....I run standard wattage bulbs. Why? Because, if I had an accident at night, and someone coming the other way claimed he had been dazzled by my lights, I have every confidence my insurers would take a step back wards with such velocity as would render them a blur to the naked eye.
I further suggest over bright lights are counter productive. One of the few advantages of night driving on unlit roads is you can see the headlights of a car about to come around a corner......not if you have strapped a pair of small Suns to the front of your car you can't.
Additionally, the glare from reflective signs can reduce your night vision to a point of making the increased brightness useless.
On the whole modern projector lamps aren't an issue because the reflectors and lenses are designed to work with the lamp and avoid glare. Unfortunately our 20 year old headlamps don't have that level of control and, as a result can be a real distraction to other road users.
As you have probably gathered, over bright lights are something of a pet hate of mine and IMHO the sooner they include a test for lumens within the MOT the better.
xenon
New member
Don't get me wrong, John, it's a pet hate of mine too. These are standard 35W discharge tubes and are much better than over-powered halogen bulbs.
Essentially, there are three type of headlamps:
Of the three, placing HID bulbs in modern free form assemblies is a no-no. The focus and throw is controlled by the parabola and, unless the rebased bulb has its arc in exactly the same place as the filament it will be dangerous. This is impossible as the arc runs on the Z axis and a filiament on the X axis. These retrofits should be banned.
If you have fresnel focusing then it is all OK - the light source is brighter, yes, but the throw remains exactly the same. If you look at the pictures of my car on dipped beam, you can see the cut-off clearly.
Projector lenses are the best for HID, no doubt, but older lenses in many ways are safer than the newer non-projector types. I have done much research on this, and many retrofits. Some cars I refuse to do.
Essentially, there are three type of headlamps:
- Fresnel lense (i.e. the 944) where focus and throw is generated by the prisms in the glass
- Free-form parabolic (clear plastic lenses, focused by the parabola)
- Projector lenses, for HID and Halogen
Of the three, placing HID bulbs in modern free form assemblies is a no-no. The focus and throw is controlled by the parabola and, unless the rebased bulb has its arc in exactly the same place as the filament it will be dangerous. This is impossible as the arc runs on the Z axis and a filiament on the X axis. These retrofits should be banned.
If you have fresnel focusing then it is all OK - the light source is brighter, yes, but the throw remains exactly the same. If you look at the pictures of my car on dipped beam, you can see the cut-off clearly.
Projector lenses are the best for HID, no doubt, but older lenses in many ways are safer than the newer non-projector types. I have done much research on this, and many retrofits. Some cars I refuse to do.
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