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Throttle valves and springs

I think it'll be less than or around £35 but as I'm no expert on import taxes and duty it's a guess assuming 20% import duty. So final costs will be known once they arrive at my door and I know how much to post out to whoever has ordered one. Hence the honesty system. If folk aren't happy with that, please don't order one. [:)]
 
So, I've placed an order. Dan/Dlknight/Waylander you have one coming. I'll let you know when they arrive with me, imagine it'll bed a couple of weeks or so, and you can give me your forwarding addresses to send them on. I'll also know by then total costs.
 
Kits have arrived so I'll forward on today. dlknight - I still need your forwarding address please. Total costs are in and it's just under £30 per kit. I'll reply to your pm's with bank transfer details.
I've started doing mine already, and the instructions and kit are top notch. (I did a leak check prior to removing the throttle valve and it was leaking like a sieve, one side of the needle bearings had no seal remains left whereas the other side had both seal's seemingly intact, I'll do a post fitment leak check too and report back). Well worth the money in my opinion. If anyone else wants a kit, Arnworx can deliver up-to 10 kits in one shipment box so delivery costs are not too much. Import duty was a killer with the 'admin fee' but still not bad at under £30 per kit IMO (would be less still with 10 kit's ordered).

PS. It would have been nearly £35 a kit save for the unexpected discount Arnworx gave me for a 'group buy' top man indeed.
 
So, After servicing the throttle vale and re-fitting I can now pump up my intake system to about 0.5bar with a bike pump and it bleeds down to zero in about 2mins. Which according the arnworx test process is bad (he recons 4 mins is okay), but I think it's a massive improvement from about 0.1 seconds which was before the service. Can't find obvious leaks anywhere, but I know my dash gauge has a minor bleed and the LR BoV can also be heard to bleed slightly...Still can't reduce idle to below 1k though I'm sure due to air bypassing the butterfly. I might need to make a new one...
 
PhilKent said:
So, After servicing the throttle vale and re-fitting I can now pump up my intake system to about 0.5bar with a bike pump and it bleeds down to zero in about 2mins. Which according the arnworx test process is bad (he recons 4 mins is okay), but I think it's a massive improvement from about 0.1 seconds which was before the service. Can't find obvious leaks anywhere, but I know my dash gauge has a minor bleed and the LR BoV can also be heard to bleed slightly...Still can't reduce idle to below 1k though I'm sure due to air bypassing the butterfly. I might need to make a new one...
Click to expand...


Nice report Phil - I've bookmarked the intake testing process, also watched a couple of youtube videos on it. Still haven't gotten around to purchasing the plastic plumbing fitting though to adapt my PC watercooling pressure tester [:D]

I made this tester to pressure test my PC's watercooling a few years ago before filling it with water, should work nicely for pressure testing the intake / pressure circuit in the turbo.

L2ZbQlXl.jpg

 
PhilKent said:
So, After servicing the throttle vale and re-fitting I can now pump up my intake system to about 0.5bar with a bike pump and it bleeds down to zero in about 2mins. Which according the arnworx test process is bad (he recons 4 mins is okay), but I think it's a massive improvement from about 0.1 seconds which was before the service. Can't find obvious leaks anywhere, but I know my dash gauge has a minor bleed and the LR BoV can also be heard to bleed slightly...Still can't reduce idle to below 1k though I'm sure due to air bypassing the butterfly. I might need to make a new one...
Click to expand...


when i last pressurised mine, i found air was escaping from the throttle body, idle control valve under the manifold, a old pipe at the back of bulk head , the factory connection from one of the lines going to my Tial dualport wastegate ( only few years old ) and weirdly the rope of my air oil separator of which i can’t now remember what preasure i put through the system?

anyone know a max figure to what should be used ?
 
Hi Daniel, the arnworx site has a useful write up about testing the intake system for boost pressure and suggests if you pressure the entire system then 0.5bar is about the limit, as the inlet to the turbo would naturally be a vacuum rather than a positive pressure (hence AOS may appear to 'leak air' as it is meant to be scavenging back into the air intake to the turbo (but I've removed mine and use a catch can instead). If you go in via the hard-pipe from the turbo outlet then you can pressurize up to whatever boost pressure you plan on using or higher, so 1.5-6bar-ish if you like (21-23psi). I also do sections to check parts eg just the inter-cooler alone after I did a stage 2 mod myself (went up to 2bar)...vacuum lines alone etc...

http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=page&id=23&chapter=2
 
that’s great phil thanks for that will look at those links????

yes i went into the hardpipe coming off of the intercooler i think ?? can’t 100% remember now , i’ll have to get familiar again once the heads back and i rebuild the engine back up. interesting what you say about the air/oil separator. i also have a catch can hooked up although how have you eliminated your air oil separator have you any picks of the lines ect? my mental picture of what i did escapes me know as i’ve not looked under that bonnet or drove her for few years since the heads under investigation.
 
wow look forward to going right through this article excellent just opened it up. interestingly enough i found my ICV was one of the major culprits of leaking and so i ordered another from germany all beit not genuine p and it also has a leak allbeit only a little but it’s leaking. what i need to make sure is i’m doing things the correct way and not over preasurising ect. i think i did it correct though as wayne scofield was the one who i watched do it as we had a few leaks when we was dynoing the car few years back. so once back home i simulated what he did and made my own bungs up and used my leakdown pressure gauge set up.

just what i needed that article

 
I've not eliminated it Daniel, just removed the air line from the AOS back to the intake, so it now goes direct to the catch can which is in the passenger wing. The AOS is very effective tbh and I've never noticed any oil build up in the catch can. Most of the lines are hidden under the intake manifold now so not a lot to see in the engine bay. The only 'recirculating' element left is the BoV which I've not gone to atmosphere, although it's as good as really as the intake is very open now.
I'm about to drop it back off the axle stands and go for a spin this weekend. Looking forward to it [:D]
 
excellent Phil so jealous! i have a beutifal last of the 986 S with a lot of unique extras and i do love it but my 944 turbo is my real baby and no other car makes me feel like that does!

enjoy your spin, and i recieved my kit today thanks again mate ????????
 
There is some good guidance on testing for leaks in the intake and turbo system in the factory workshop manual - pretty much identical to what is on the Arnworx website - easier to find than in the PDF versions fo the workshop manual.

As Phil said if pressurizing the entire system Porsche state that 0.5 bar maximum pressure should be used, they even show you how to make your own tool.

In the Turbo manual it is in section 28 page 41 and in the normal 944 manual I believe it is section 24 - page 15.
 
Thanks Phill got my kit, it’s going to be a while before I get to it, lot more bits than I expected

im using the 968 daily at the moment as my daughter is using my A4, while waiting for her new car,

the other good bit about that is if I’m on my own I get to use the VF1000, I can assure you it’s quicker than a 968
 
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