waxoiling inside my sills

[nfearn]

Do any of the people local-ish to me (Essex area) like the idea of sharing the costs of a suitable sprayer and some cans of Dinitrol and doing a few cars on the same day?

Nick

 

[pauljmcnulty]

Make it a weekend and we West Londerners could be persuaded to head out east!

 

[John Maddox]

This happened to mine last year and is indeed rust coming through from inside the sill and is most distressing to say the least.

When I did the proverbial screwdriver test it, of course, went straight through.

I tackled mine myself and cut out the rust ( quite a small amount really) and filled it after ensuring all major rust removed. Then applied the correct rubberised crinkle finish (Wurth I think it was called - from Frost Supplies) which has the added advantage of filling imperfections. Then I sprayed it from an aerosol - my wife say's she cannot see the repair so it's probably good enough and rust hasn't re-occured yet.

I then took the plastic vents of the door and door frame carefully so I could see the enclosed sections. The door was fine but looking back towards my repair was not a pretty sight !! Rust appeared to be all along the lower sills towards the wheel arch. I injected rust killing wax towards the wheelarch on a warm day so it flowed well. I used Dinatrol 3125 (I think thats correct Number) as it won the Practical Classics test a couple of years ago.

Then I noticed a few tiny bubbly bits along the sill towards the front. You can gain access to this part of the sill by removing plastic bungs under the inner sill carpet. It looked reasonable in there so I injected more rust killer wax and did the whole process again on the other side. Mind you don't block drain holes if you do this.

You can't see too much through these bungs as the inner sill blocks vision.

Sorry this is a long post - having done all this I have stopped worrying about it and I hope I have slowed the tin worm to a crawl !!

Let us know how you get on.

Regards

 

[sawood12]

I struggle to understand how condensation can form between the metal skin of the sill and the applied layer of waxoil or similar product. Condensation forms by moisture in the air condensing against the cold metal surface but if there is a layer of waxoil the air is not coming into contact with the metal skin. Therefore if you have a good consistent coating of waxoil on the inside of the sill then I fail to see how corrosion can start. It is true that you want a good airflow through the sills and you should try not to block the drain holes as hard as it may be but if you manage to get in there before corrosion has taken hold then the waxoil should provide as good a protection as you can expect. But the trick is to make sure you get a nice consistent coating of waxoil that covers the inside surface 100%

 

[John Sims]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

I struggle to understand how condensation can form between the metal skin of the sill and the applied layer of waxoil or similar product. Condensation forms by moisture in the air condensing against the cold metal surface but if there is a layer of waxoil the air is not coming into contact with the metal skin. .......

Ed Zachary! []

My point (obviously badly made) was that if people were content that, by filling a section with lots of waxoil, there wouldn't be a problem with water getting in subsequently this wasn't the case and water would still form within the section through condensation.

To go back to the earlier point. If you try to coat a cold piece of steel with anything on a damp day then the likelihood is that there will be condensation on the surface of the metal. As to whether waxoil will repel that condensation prior to sticking to the metal I wouldn't like to surmise. If it did (which I doubt) the repelled water has to end up some where.

You perhaps get the impression that I don't hold with waxoil but this is far from the case. Waxoiling is far better than doing nothing, I am just suggesting there may be effective and less effective ways of doing the job.

I am a great believer in waxoil and waxing generally. I had a black MkI Capri with sundry rusty spots which, on the underside were retarded by waxoil and on the paintwork were retarded by regular waxing - the latter I employ today on Beaky and have every confidence that I will be very soon looking at the waxoil route as well.

 

[sawood12]

You're right John, the fact that galvanising which we all know does not provide indefinate protection then a coat or two of waxoil is not going to do anything but stave off the rust and buy you a bit more time. Moisture is but one of many causes of corrosion so the odds are greatly stacked against us!

 

[Diver944]

It sounds more and more like we need to organise a Register waxing day.

when it's warmer of course

 

[944turboS]

Excellent idea Paul.

I had been thinking we should try & get a profesional allong to the Dyno Day as there is plenty of time available & lots of cars to prompt a group buy.

 

[Hilux]

It sounds more and more like we need to organise a Register waxing day.

Mentioned it too the wife and she said she`s coming along too so as to have a manicure and her highlights touched up []

 

[nfearn]

Go on Paul - a Register waxing day is definitely called for!

Nick

 

[944Turbo]

I read a report in practical classics (or similar) that placed dinitrol ahead of waxoil, got mine from frosts, not used it yet.
Tony

 

[Fred Hindle]

Rather than using Waxoyl in the cills I suggest spraying inside them with ordinary oil (a thickish one). It cannot trap moisture and should get into all the crooks and nannies (Wouldn't you say so Dr. Spooner?).
Cheers,

 

[nfearn]

Tony

I saw that too and would go for Dinitrol in favour of Waxoyl on the strength of it.

Nick

 

[sawood12]

Well i've just had my car back from the bodyshop where thy've replaced my passenger sill and used Waxoil so it seems the proffessionals still rate and use this product. And this was a decent bodyshop as well. Waxoil does drive out moisture upon application and contains an active rust inhibitor chemical for ongoing protection. I'm sure Dinitrol is a very similar and alternative product so either way you are protected. I'm not sure normal oil is as good as it doesn't contain an active rust inhibitor so you are relying purely on the fact that rust has not already started to form by the time you've applied it. Waxoil or Dinitrol would stop the spread of any rust that had started to form at the time you apply the product.

 

[Alpine]

I think the main benefit of going with Waxoil is that you can buy from Halfords a spray gun with a very long hose for £12, which will go the full length inside the cill. The Dinitrol spray gun is £25 and I'm not sure how long the hose is.

Dinitrol probably is better if the comparison tests in certain magazines are to believed, but there probably isn't really that much in it.